Losi Will not tune!!
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Thats a great price. I pay $27.95 a gallon for Sidewinder.
benningtonr
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I was running Blue Thunder, unfortunately recommended by the Hobby Shop.
I have Top fuel to run in my new t-maxx, breaking it in Sat. Or should I break it in with Blue Thunder? I am going to stay with 20% on the t-maxx, and 20% on the Losi after I put the new motor in next week. Do I have to buy the same motor or can I bolt anything in its place. It has a .26, but I was thinking bigger.
Took my first engine apart last night, interesting. How do you get the rod off the cranks, we had to pull the sleeve out then slide the rod off.
So is sidewinder better than top fuel?
What is the best, buy best I mean safe for a 1-2 hour a week part time basher.
Looking for longevity here
I have Top fuel to run in my new t-maxx, breaking it in Sat. Or should I break it in with Blue Thunder? I am going to stay with 20% on the t-maxx, and 20% on the Losi after I put the new motor in next week. Do I have to buy the same motor or can I bolt anything in its place. It has a .26, but I was thinking bigger.
Took my first engine apart last night, interesting. How do you get the rod off the cranks, we had to pull the sleeve out then slide the rod off.
So is sidewinder better than top fuel?
What is the best, buy best I mean safe for a 1-2 hour a week part time basher.
Looking for longevity here
Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
Sidewinder is one of the best fuels out there, run that. Believe it or not fuels with 9-12% oil are WAY easier to tune with and are better for the engine.
I run 30% with 8-10% oil. My engines start easier, reach operating temp faster and run much cooler making a lot more power. High oil content fuels are hard to get an engine up to temp with and generate excess heat once the emgine is fully heat saturated. this can result in tuning errors because the engine is struggling trying to compress all that excess oil.
I ran 30% in my 3.3 Revo, it was flat out faster than any other Revo I raced against.It still had the same amount of compression at 4 gallons as it did at 1 gallon. piston was clean as could be with zero signs of detonating.
3.3 with Traxxas heavy duty plugs and 30% fuel is a wicked combo.
Pretty much any BB engine needs 30% fuel to run right, the head clearance is set for that nitro % from the factory. Medium to cool plugs are the norm for BB engines. Except when you get into Turbo head engines, 90% of turbo engines need a super hot plug.
Traxxas engines generally run very warm too, don't sweat it Just plan on installing new bearings after 3 gallons of use, they get sloppy and allow the crank to wobble which in turn eats the rod bushing and blows glow plugs left and right.
Top fuel is garbage, Blue Thunder is a close second. The Blue Thunder HP8 is the only one i'll touch, and that is only if there is no other alternative ATM.
One more thing, the exhaust on the Aftershock is a muffler, not a tuned pipe. Pick up a Losi HT pipe for it. It will run 10X better.
I run 30% with 8-10% oil. My engines start easier, reach operating temp faster and run much cooler making a lot more power. High oil content fuels are hard to get an engine up to temp with and generate excess heat once the emgine is fully heat saturated. this can result in tuning errors because the engine is struggling trying to compress all that excess oil.
I ran 30% in my 3.3 Revo, it was flat out faster than any other Revo I raced against.It still had the same amount of compression at 4 gallons as it did at 1 gallon. piston was clean as could be with zero signs of detonating.
3.3 with Traxxas heavy duty plugs and 30% fuel is a wicked combo.
Pretty much any BB engine needs 30% fuel to run right, the head clearance is set for that nitro % from the factory. Medium to cool plugs are the norm for BB engines. Except when you get into Turbo head engines, 90% of turbo engines need a super hot plug.
Traxxas engines generally run very warm too, don't sweat it Just plan on installing new bearings after 3 gallons of use, they get sloppy and allow the crank to wobble which in turn eats the rod bushing and blows glow plugs left and right.
Top fuel is garbage, Blue Thunder is a close second. The Blue Thunder HP8 is the only one i'll touch, and that is only if there is no other alternative ATM.
One more thing, the exhaust on the Aftershock is a muffler, not a tuned pipe. Pick up a Losi HT pipe for it. It will run 10X better.
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benningtonr
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yeah, a buddy and I are going through the pains. H doesn't have one, just helping me. We stripped the m26 apart last night. took some looking and thougth but we got it apart. No internet in the shop and no directions.Figuring out how to get the crank out was a little troublesome. probably rebuild 26 as a backup motor. I drag race and we have about two hours before time runs after I get to the track, so these are just to kill the time. Going to break in tmaxx sat, any leasons learned. I am going to follow the traxxas break in procedures.
Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
The Traxxas break in procedure is just fine, that's how i did mine.
It's a heat cycle type breakin. the 3.3's break in fast. BB engines require much more easy running. Pretty much stay away from full throttle passes until it gets 3/4's of a gallon thru it.
It's a heat cycle type breakin. the 3.3's break in fast. BB engines require much more easy running. Pretty much stay away from full throttle passes until it gets 3/4's of a gallon thru it.
benningtonr
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Ok, will do.
The mach 427 is a BB correct.
When I put that in low rpm break in for a longer period of time?
Do i need to adjust anything on the tmaxx while breaking in, or after? Kind of nervous seeing as how i just smoked one engine, albeit used when I got it.
The mach 427 is a BB correct.
When I put that in low rpm break in for a longer period of time?
Do i need to adjust anything on the tmaxx while breaking in, or after? Kind of nervous seeing as how i just smoked one engine, albeit used when I got it.
Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
Follow the manuals for both the engines and you'll be fine. You already learned what not to do. Just be patient with them. The Mach427 needs to be under 240F to last.
Hell, I ran my 3.3 at 260-280F for 3+ gallons and it was in awesome shape except for the main bearing wore out.
Hell, I ran my 3.3 at 260-280F for 3+ gallons and it was in awesome shape except for the main bearing wore out.
