Injora’s Capra lookalike

[J’sCrawler]

I built this chassis using injora’s capra clone and scx10/10ii drivetrain. I turned my scx24 into the micro version and i really like it, it’s unstoppable! Anyway here’s a breakdown of what i built it with:
- Tekin Gen3 21.5T motor (yeah its only a 2pole and i will probably install a different rotor)
- HW 10BL120 -because they are affordable- changed to the RS gen2 because it was the same price on eBay and works way better
- Injora 3-gear transmission (the AX10 type?)
- SCX10ii links from amazon (the rod ends suck so i used revo ends as well)
- injora driveshafts (so far so good)
- KYX front axle with SOA
- SSD pro44 rear axle
- JConcepts Scorpios & foams (so far so good, I may cut some tread out but I'm still testing)
- Injora 1.9 chanquish beadlocks (Good for the price) also have some longer offset wheel hubs for this wheel type
- 115mm shocks from some amazon brand, using rc4wd RRD soft springs and 35wt oil (not bad, just need to find a better o-ring for the top cap)
- direct power servo from amazon (not as fast as it probably should be) the servo horn is bent so that sucks
- 3S 4100mah hobby star battery from rcJuice that shoehorns into place

I may add an interior piece from the Capra however, it is really convenient to unplug from the window

 

[J’sCrawler]

So far my only gripe is that it torque twists the whole time its driving. It slumps over to the passenger side rear, the motor is flipped to the front driver side. I couldn’t justify purchasing the “cheezeberger“ transmission to see if that eliminates the twist. I rearranged the link locations but it didn’t help much.
Other than that theres a slight cogging of the motor sometimes climbing rocks. I may drop back to the 13T pinion and see if that cures it. I was trying to gain a little wheel speed at first and put in a 15T pinion. Initially i was going faster in reverse, so after recalibrating and messing with esc parameters i figured that out and just plain forgot to switch pinion gears. The motor is set at about 30* and that’s where Tekin says it’s ideal. ESC timing is down at zero.
I really wish i would have grabbed a 4pole motor, i didn’t realize the one i got was only a 2pole motor. It was just one heck of a deal!

 

[Jerold]

I run the same wheels on my TRX-4 and have had Zero, Nada, Zilch issues with them. The quality good and the price is way better than others.

 

[nino]

IMO you'd be better off with a brushed system than that combo

 

[J’sCrawler]

IMO you'd be better off with a brushed system than that combo

I value that opinion and I realize good brushed motors have been very successful in crawling/trail applications, however I’m not doing brushed anything ever again.
The esc I already had, the motor was cheap and I couldn’t resist it.

 

[Jerold]

I value that opinion and I realize good brushed motors have been very successful in crawling/trail applications, however I’m not doing brushed anything ever again.
The esc I already had, the motor was cheap and I couldn’t resist it.

I still run brushed HH Trailmaster with a HW 1080. It's a good combo. Although, I'm eyeing HW Fusion system. Less wires, less space and longer run time. But, it's also another $150 to spend.

 

[Chubaka]

Crawler looks amazing. Would have me fooled. Like the color choice, makes everything blend. I had an scx10ii link end break on me in the field I too went with traxxas.

In my 10.2 I run the castle sensored crawler.
Since I drive rwd and love flooring it from a dead stop I accomplished breaking all 3 screws in a short time in the locker. If possible go sensored if your doing a very slow pace. Pic below of my damage.

https://www.rctalk.com/forum/media/2000-jeep-scx10ii.2829/full

Next time you buy a lightbar, if your needing more light they do have ones with 2 rows of lights.

 

[J’sCrawler]

I still run brushed HH Trailmaster with a HW 1080. It's a good combo. Although, I'm eyeing HW Fusion system. Less wires, less space and longer run time. But, it's also another $150 to spend.

Yea it looks like a great system, I wasn’t looking to spend that kind of money and if I did it was going to be the axe system or a roc412 motor with a still undecided esc.
There’s always room for improvement!
I like the Holmes hobbies stuff, looks like it’s good quality.

Crawler looks amazing. Would have me fooled. Like the color choice, makes everything blend. I had an scx10ii link end break on me in the field I too went with traxxas.

In my 10.2 I run the castle sensored crawler.
Since I drive rwd and love flooring it from a dead stop I accomplished breaking all 3 screws in a short time in the locker. If possible go sensored if your doing a very slow pace. Pic below of my damage.

https://www.rctalk.com/forum/media/2000-jeep-scx10ii.2829/full

Next time you buy a lightbar, if your needing more light they do have ones with 2 rows of lights.

I do have the sensored setup. I just have a feeling if I go lower with the pinion it will smooth out on the climbs. It’s not bad, I see it so I tend to nitpick imperfections.
The lightbar came with the chassis. My preferred lighting brand is mytrickRC, haven’t had a bad product yet. I put lights on everything
My other thing is tires….. once I get one set I feel the need to have about 2 or 3 more just for testing purposes……
I bought the scorpios thinking they “look” like they would be a great all around tire, and so far they are but I’ve got nothing to compare.

 

[J’sCrawler]

I pulled the rotor out of the motor and look what I found! the same damn rotor I just ordered. I’m trying to tune out the cogging effect just a bit more….
Anyway the 2724 is the part number for a gen3 mod torque rotor “red” and that looks to be what I have here. The new one showed up with no markings at all so……? The tech I’ve been speaking with tells me the gen4 rotors fit as well but those are $40! I’ll be money ahead purchasing a new motor and selling this one for that cost. There are some pro4‘s on scratch n dent deals, of course there’s some tenshock 6poles out there, theres always the $100 hobby wings and Holmes hobbies, my point here is, I purchased this particular motor for $40, to put $20 into it to get it slightly better sure I’m ok with that. Another $40, well that’s now an $80 motor, the tenshock is $60, the pro4 is $80, see where I’m going with this? A roc412 is +$100, hobbywing 4poles and the Holmes hobbies are about $100….. the fusion system is about $150……
I could probably get a brushed system for less than a brushless motor but I’ve said it before, no more brushed systems for me.
nothing is ever a budget build

 

[nino]

Yeah. A Fusion SE is under 100$ and will be smotlother then whatever cheap combo you try to do with that esc.

 

[J’sCrawler]

Yeah. A Fusion SE is under 100$ and will be smotlother then whatever cheap combo you try to do with that esc.

You think the esc is the real issue here?

 

[nino]

Could be. That thing is not made to crawl. I had heat issues with my Hobbyking clone of it. Running part throttle all the time (like you do in crawling) generates more heat that just going WOT!

Good thing you're running a direct power servo, at least the internal BEC isn't getting its limits tested

 

[J’sCrawler]

We took it out to our spot yesterday and it was fun, it’s a very capable vehicle. I didn’t see any issues with heat on the esc. There’s plenty of wheel speed on this set up, the drag brake holds really well, and it does have just enough low speed control for now…… I do like it and can't wait to improve the set up. I will have to source another esc and give it a shot.
I was just thinking I could put the 10bl120 hobbywing in the LC12B1, which would be a great fit.

Could be. That thing is not made to crawl. I had heat issues with my Hobbyking clone of it. Running part throttle all the time (like you do in crawling) generates more heat that just going WOT!

Good thing you're running a direct power servo, at least the internal BEC isn't getting its limits tested

Direct power servo is the way to do it!

 

[J’sCrawler]

I have scored an RSgen2 esc on eBay for a very fair price. With more adjustments and tune-ability it should be a lot better. Of course that requires the Hotwire

 

[J’sCrawler]

All the cogging has disappeared with this esc….. can’t dial in the drag brake fully without the “hotwire” device though. The drag seems weak but I believe there are 2 more parameters to fiddle with in the programming via Hotwire. It’s way smoother already no doubt about that.
this esc features the “d2” drive mode, meaning the sensors are used for low rpm then transitions over to sensor less once rpms pick up. It isn’t the latest or greatest but it has shown to fit the bill for others in the past, so far it’s working for me.

 

[J’sCrawler]

My Hotwire arrived and I changed some settings. I dropped the locked spec mode, switched over to dual drive, settled the drag brake to where it works best, and messed with throttle curves. It will wheelie from a dead stop and has awesome slow control. Not bad for a 2 pole motor.

 

[J’sCrawler]

We were in the garden city UT area so I took the boy out to find a cool spot to drive some rc cars.

 

[J’sCrawler]

one of my axle stubs in the front has warped where the pin holds them on the dogbone shaft. I’d say I had too much steering EPA on that side. I didn’t think “hardened steel” would do this but the KYX brand is Chinese….. seems like the bearings didn’t hold grease for too long either? Anyway I have elected to build an SSD axle upfront instead of buying new axle shafts. I’m not waiting 5 weeks for parts, fook dat.
More news to come

 

[J’sCrawler]

It appears the ssd universals fit the Kyx axles no issues, plus the brass knuckles.

this looks like one bent @$$ dogbone

Got some goodies

 

[J’sCrawler]

The c hubs from the KYX axle will not fit the ssd axle, the splines don’t quit line up. The link mount don’t fit either, the mounting holes are a little bit larger than the ssd stuff not seating all the way on to the axle tubes.