hyper 7 tq sport

  • Thread starter madmax1609italy
  • Start date

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

madmax1609italy

RCTalk Rookie
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Location
United kingdom
RC Driving Style
I would like to start racing my Hyper 7 tq sport.

Buggy is great engine power is enough for me. Can I up grade my car with the pro parts? or is it not compatible. the differentials centre front and back?

shafts?

is the transmitter important?

anything else you feel I should up grade?
 
I would like to start racing my Hyper 7 tq sport.

Buggy is great engine power is enough for me. Can I up grade my car with the pro parts? or is it not compatible. the differentials centre front and back?

shafts?

is the transmitter important?

anything else you feel I should up grade?

Well I have the TQ sport as well and have just started racing it recently. To answer your questions:

Yes the pro parts are compatible.

You should have a decent transmitter. At least a 75 mhz FM one. Preferably a Spektrum DSM system.

What are you asking about the differentials? I personally run 3k-7k-5k. (front-center-rear)

The stock CVA's in the front, and dogbones elsewhere are fine IMO, never had a problem with them.

As for what to upgrade, I highly reccomend a thicker rear shock-tower. My stock one bent pretty easily. I bought a PCR one off ebay and havent had a single problem with it.
I also bought the pro steering turnbuckles since the stock ones seemed a bit thin to me.
I know some reccomend switching to 22 degree front hubs. I have yet to do so, but will try them out eventually likely.

One thing to watch out for is the front end suspension. Make sure you assembled it real good with thread-lock where neeeded, and check it regularly at the track. Mine has been falling apart because I didn't assemble it very good the first time around. Especially make sure to use thread-lock around the steering knuckles...I lost those weird little washers that look like little engine sleeves, so I had to buy the steering knuckles just to get them, and the LHS didn't have them in stock, so now I have to wait...

I'm currently trying to figure out a good set-up for my buggy since my track is very rough and is giving me a lot of trouble. Hell, it was even giving our visitor who was a pro from Japan problems...
 
Last edited:
Many thanks for your reply. Could you please let me know when you refer to the 3K , 5k differentials , what you mean. Also do you think that with all this up-grades that we are doing spending money etc... would it not be better off buying a new pro buggy?? On the transmitter issue Thanks for this, I might go Digital with a spectrum. I was thinking of getting a longer chassis that is sold on e-bay , what do you think.
 
Many thanks for your reply. Could you please let me know when you refer to the 3K , 5k differentials , what you mean. Also do you think that with all this up-grades that we are doing spending money etc... would it not be better off buying a new pro buggy?? On the transmitter issue Thanks for this, I might go Digital with a spectrum. I was thinking of getting a longer chassis that is sold on e-bay , what do you think.


Wow, I actually forgot ALL about the longer chassis... I believe a longer wheelbase should help with a rough track if you have it. My track is SOO rough, that I might have to pick up that Yannick chassis.... I only think it's worth it if you've got a real rough track and you keep getting tossed around too much.

For the diffs, I mean that is the weight of the siilcone diff lubes I run in them. Higher weight= better power transfer, but typically a loss in steering. They have weights from 1000 to way up there to the point where it's a pseudo diff. lock.

On the buying a new buggy... The way I see it:
Losi 8ight- $600
Jammin X1-CR- $450-550
Hyper 8- $430

And of course those prices are in USD, and those are all w/o engine/radio, and pipe and tires for some...

Yet, hyper 7 upgrades:
shock tower- $25 (ebay)
22* hubs- $25
Radio- $150+ (which you'll need anyway)

That's all that really needs upgrading in my opinion... What I recommend more is taking your hyper 7 to your track run it, play with the suspension and diff. set-ups, and see if you can't get it running how you'd like... Then if not, then consider a new buggy. Much better to spend a little money on shock and diff. oils and springs and such to try to dial it in then to go out and drop a lot of cash on a big expensive buggy when the one you had was just fine... Your money is also much better spent on a new engine if you need it... I'm going with a new engine first, then I'll see about a new buggy...

The hyper 7 has already proven itself to be a very durable buggy, no need to get a new one for durability. Now, if I can't get my Hyper 7 to handle well on my very rough track, I'm likely gonna sell my buggy, and buy a Losi 8ight.
 
Last edited:
Thank for the reply buddy, really appreciate it.

You are right re new buggy I am going to up grade mine a bit .

How do you find your breaking, my breaks are not very good, just cannot get them to break properly. I am thinking of up-grading to quad breaks from the Pro version. Do you think it will fit??

What about engine, what would you get??? Something descent that will not cost a bomb, say up to USD.200
 
Thank for the reply buddy, really appreciate it.

You are right re new buggy I am going to up grade mine a bit .

How do you find your breaking, my breaks are not very good, just cannot get them to break properly. I am thinking of up-grading to quad breaks from the Pro version. Do you think it will fit??

What about engine, what would you get??? Something descent that will not cost a bomb, say up to USD.200

I'm using the stock brakes, and they work perfectly fine for me. But I'm running a relatively high-torque servo which puts out 85 oz-in. @ 6V. It's the stock steering servo off a traxxas t-maxx. Nice and cheap and gets the job done. What I'm trying to say is, if your servo doesn't have at least 80 oz-in. of torque, upgrade the steering servo. That'll give you much better braking...
For instance, in my savage, I've been running the stock, single disc brake for about 3 years and still have perfect braking because I've got my linkage set-up nice, and I've got a Hitec 625MG servo for throttle/brake.
So, be sure to check your:
-Linkages
-brake pads
-servo
I think the servo that comes in the TQ, (assuming you got the one with the electronics) is a cheapo little standard servo which puts out somewhere around 48 oz-in...


As for engine, it depends on your track. Depends if it's big and long, or small and short. Generally, for a tighter track where you don't have many straights or anything, you're going to want an engine with less ports.
Also, check around and see what others are running, what the recommend, and why.
I will likely buy a HotMod Collari B3 since I love the sound of a modded engine (lol), and my track is very tight and technical where no one ever gets up to top speed. The engine retails for around $240.
 
Thanks a lot . Now the batteries . Nightmare as I am still running the 4.6V and want to up grade to the 6V which I have but my 6 V Mah last for about one or 2 hours then is dead.What do you use??

Re engine my tracks is short and at the moment I am running the standard 4 port 21 engine , which is fine as I am still learning .

I also want to get a new bodyshell at some stage , what do you have??

I am off to get the new sterring servo as advised, but bought quad breaks al-ready so might fit those in and see what happens.
 
Thanks a lot . Now the batteries . Nightmare as I am still running the 4.6V and want to up grade to the 6V which I have but my 6 V Mah last for about one or 2 hours then is dead.What do you use??

Re engine my tracks is short and at the moment I am running the standard 4 port 21 engine , which is fine as I am still learning .

I also want to get a new bodyshell at some stage , what do you have??

I am off to get the new sterring servo as advised, but bought quad breaks al-ready so might fit those in and see what happens.

For the battery, I've got a 1100 mah Ni-Mh Venom 5-cell hump pack that I run in the buggy usually, and a Team Orion 1400 mah Ni-mh hump-pack which usually stays in the savage, but if I'm not running the savage, I usually put that in the buggy for the extra run time... I can get about 5 runs or so before it needs to be recharged. I always end up charging the battery about twice while I'm out at the track. Each time isn't from fully dead, but just topping it off. I've got a AC/DC charger, and since my track has no power, I hook it up to the battery in my 1:1 truck and charge it that way.

I've got a proline hyper 7 body http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJDS8&P=7 which actually might be discontinued now after looking on Proline's site. Anyway, I haven't yet painted it. I got it back in December, and am just now this week getting around to painting it....maybe, haha.
 
Thanks

I'll let you know how the quad breaks work , but need to buy the purple alloy fly wheel otherwise they do not fit. Anyway was also going to ask you what shocks oil do you use and how did you set up your shocks ie which position on the tower. Would be good to know. By the way my name is Max
 
Is there a track in Anchorage were you are ? I am military and might be moving to one of the Air Force bases there. Do you know how many tracks are around either of the bases ?
 
Is there a track in Anchorage were you are ? I am military and might be moving to one of the Air Force bases there. Do you know how many tracks are around either of the bases ?

I sent you a PM last night regarding tracks in the area. Complete with pics and info and all.


Max:
I'm currently running 35wt. all around in the shocks, but am going to switch it once I get my steering knuckles in that I need. Most people at my track are running around a 55 wt. in the back, and 60 in the front. +/- 5-10. That set-up seems to work well for my rough track. However my buggy seems like it'd do better with a lighter weight, so I'm going to try out 25 wt, then if that doesn't work, move up to about 50 wt.
As for shock positions, I'm running them in the stock positions for now. I'm going to change them to give me a bit more ground clearance with the shock at about the same angle though.
I haven't been able to play around with set-ups much since I've been waiting on steering knuckles for about 2 weeks now...
- Nick
 
Last edited:
Nick

Just a quick question . What kind of Engine do you have in your hyper??? Looking to get something descent. How about tyres, The ones I Have are good but do not last very much .
 
Well, I'm running the hyper .21 8-port engine. Once I get the money for a new engine/starter box, I'm going to do a porting job on my current one, so if I mess it up, no big deal.
For tires, I'm running the Proline Knuckles 2.0 tires. They're not bad, but a better choice for a loose track would be like the proline CrimeFighers. Or maybe the bow-ties.
 
Me again

Do yoiu by any chance have a copy of the Hyper quad break instructions .
I have the quad break conversion kit but want to make sure I get it right . On the Ofna website they only have the standard break system
 
No, I don't think so. But I'll see if by chance it's in my manual...if so I'll scan it for you and upload it on my server. I won't get to it till tomorrow since it's 1:45 am and the manual is in the back seat of my truck, lol.
On a side note, I've given it about all I can, and I think my track is just too rough for my buggy... So I may be switching to truggy here soon. Likely sell the savage too since I'd be taking my engine from that and using it in the truggy... Got to get a job first so I can fund RC and my 10 mpg truck, LOL.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top