HSP Truck rebuild

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personally, i would find a way to lower the body as to not get grass and dirt and all that stuff into the gears
It does have a cover for the gears i didn't put it back on yet.

This is stock steering and who design it to turn "left" forgot to "look" at it.
It turns right without bind but look what happens with a left turn.
 
It does have a cover for the gears i didn't put it back on yet.

This is stock steering and who design it to turn "left" forgot to "look" at it.
It turns right without bind but look what happens with a left turn.
dang. I'm 14 and could have designed a better steering setup than that lol.
 
It does have a cover for the gears i didn't put it back on yet.

This is stock steering and who design it to turn "left" forgot to "look" at it.
It turns right without bind but look what happens with a left turn.
It looks to me like your steering links aren't adjusted the same. At center, the steering bellcranks should be facing forward. Yours are a bit to the right. This will cause the steering to bind up going to the left.

Remove servo link. Remove left and right steering links. Make sure the steering links are the same length. Reinstall them and get your servo centered. Then set your toe, making sure you adjust each steering link the same.
 
dang. I'm 14 and could have designed a better steering setup than that lol.
they did make the servo link adjustable while on the truck and that's why it's so bulky with the connector end, i did take it off and grind some plastic off it and it's good for now and a slim line servo link can be made to replace it eventually.

I took the spark plug out to turn eng over for a first start and the eng is "locked" for some reason.
I have to take eng out to find out why tomorrow...more wrenching to do.

Thank you WickedFog for your the advise it's turning now ok with out bind.
 
I took the eng out and it turns over like butter as it did before going in.o_O
I'm sure i'll figure it out why.
 
It only takes about 7 screws & 4 clips and a few mins to take it out.

IMG_20231117_100913_623.jpg
 
Did you figure out your steering problem?
yes its ok for now, it can nearly turn full lock left but i will mod the bracket one day for the savox servo it will be better.
I got the eng started for a brief moment but the fuel line needs to be replaced also the tank grommet it's got a small leak that's why it's not pushing fuel.
 
The HSP engine in this truck is crap don't buy one.
Best to stick with HPI or Rovan at least it's reliable.
 
They should of called this truck "Big Monster Lemon"
 
I believe the "H" stands for "Hide"
So i don't have to look at it:mad:
It's runs high idle for 20 seconds then cuts out and that's with the working walbro carb of the shorty.
Adjusting the low speed needle richer made no difference to the high idle even with idle screw closed.
my other 3 engines run just fine.
 
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I believe the "H" stands for "Hide"
So i don't have to look at it:mad:
It's runs high idle for 20 seconds then cuts out and that's with the working walbro carb of the shorty.
Adjusting the low speed needle richer made no difference to the high idle even with idle screw closed.
my other 3 engines run just fine.
Do you have a vacuum leak somewhere? On my real cars I always sprayed some starting fluid around any areas I suspected a vacuum leak might be. Sometimes doing this would rev the engine, indicating where the leak was.
 
It does need new gaskets but the gaskets in it now still look ok.
I'm sure it will get figured and work or it will get smashed..either way.
I won't buy a used RC ever again.
I bought 4 used 1/6 and my last purchase was a new FG Marder that has not yet been started.
 
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It does need new gaskets but the gaskets in it now still look ok.
This is contradictory lol. You can freshen them up by applying a very thin layer of RTV blue, or use Indian Head gasket sealer on the gaskets. It just sounds like it may be a vacuum leak to me, unless there is a bad needle in the carb or something.
 
This is contradictory lol
True lol, I tried to justify o.k looking carb gaskets but they are not good enough.
I found some near new gaskets and put them in and now it idles like a new engine.:dummy:
i put a video up later.
 
Sometimes the isolator warps in time ,that gasket in between the head ,isolator an
carb is very important an not to leak ,for one ,it will suck in air ,two ,there is
a pulse hole that the carb diaphragm relies on to help open the fuel meter
needle to draw fuel into the carb jet!
So that spot needs to be sealed an watch out for any warpage on the isolator ,
you can check that by taking it off an set it on a flat surface!

If the engine has any compression ,it should run!..:cool:
 
Thank you, the exhaust gasket looks to have a slight leak it will be replaced with all new gaskets soon.
I have been holding off with two part orders for all my rc cars and it's much needed now....i will be doing it soon the cost is around $1500:D
 
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