ESC Question

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If you reduce your backs to 12 batteries the cost goes down You can use the E-Maxx esc made for Traxxas by Novak. I'm just guessing at all this by looking at the numbers. Please do your homework.
 
Ed, the traxxas/novak will take 12 cells,but can it handle output to two 55 turn lathe motors? Because I was mistaken, the Clod has two 6 cell packs in it. So the 12 cell limit would be fine. I know the e maxxes use two packs also, but they use a much lower turn motor. :shrug:
 
well that esc is EVX it only use 5-50 size motors ..... but you can get the bad maxx motor.... i heard they fly... lol or the monster maxx motors ... hope this helps you out.. and the evx is $100 on tower .. and the motor that i said are about $90 thanks curtis
 
Before you get into buying an ESC to pull dual motors you will have to decide how they will be wired. If the motors are wired in series, the load on the ESC will be half that of a single motor (2x 55T motors will have the same load of 1x 110T motor). If you wire them in parallel, the load is doubled (2x 55T motors have a load of 1x 25T motor).

With these motor load ratings (unless you are running micro mini's)you shouldn't have any problems running about any ESC you can find that will handle the battery input level that you intend to run. I haven't seen anything that will handle more than 10 cell input, but then again I haven't been looking for anything that would need to carry that much voltage. If you can't find one to carry the input voltage of 14 cells then you can always use dual 7 cell packs wired parallel to get longer life while only out putting 8.4volts.
 
I think I am going to go with the Novak super duty XR. It can take up to 14 cells input, so no matter how I decide to wire it I will be able to. . I'm not sure which way will be better to wire it for use in my Clod Crawler project so I don't want to get stuck with an ESC that will not give me options. With the XR I can wire it pretty much however I want to. Thanks for the help guys, I am new to this electric stuff.
 
Joe,
Did I forget to tell you everything that pinblaster said?
Sorry :(

Thanks pinblaster... You cleared up a lot of questions that both of us had.
 
What are you putting this in and what will it be used for? Just about any esc will handle 55 turn motors. The 14 cell on the other hand is another story. The higher the turns the less the esc has to work, the lower turns the harder your esc works. I would say drop down to 10 cells and go with a super rooster, or down to 6 cells and use something as cheap as the traxxas xl1. Also the traxxas evx is good for 19 turns and higher but they are very hard on motors that are not ment to have 14 volts running though them.
 
General rule for esc's. If the motor limit is 17 (traxxas xl1) it will handle two 37 turn or higher motors (double the turn limit) Although the Super rooster has no turn limit novak says no lower than 2 15 turn motors. All other should follow the first ex.

Hope this helps
 
As far as I have been told, so long as the esc will keep from overheating (which can be told by the temp at the heat sinks) it can handle anything. Example, I have a duratrax autosport rated for a 20 turn limit with a 9 turn motor on it. I also have an 8 volt fan running on it with a hole in the windshield to cool it. Also a set of custom copper heat sinks which I made myself, out of a processor heat sink intended for a computer. I have about 10 hours run time and no sign of breakage. So, keep this in mind when deciding what to do. It could save you mucho $$$
 
Smaxxin, this will be going in my Clodzilla. I am going to run two 6 cell packs, two lathe motors and one esc. I think I am going to get a novak super duty XR, it can handle 6-14 cells, and should have no problems with output to the two lathe motors. I was also thinking of adding the Novak cooling fan as well. Any suggestions on wiring? I dont know the best way to wire it, batteries in parallel, or series?, motors in parallel or series? If the batteries are in series do the motors also have to be in series, same with parallel wiring, do they both have to be wired the same?
 
I just got some feedback on the super duty xr yesterday from a guy that has it in his TXT and all he said was AWESOME! Everyone has a different opinion on how to wire motors and batt for crawling. Series has more torque and better run time but is very slow and you will experience more motor stall. Motors in parallel have less run time, more speed and less motor stall. I tried both ways and ended up motors in parallel. As for batteries I never ran duel batts in my crawler. Hear is a little read that might help....I hope. The first one show how to wire everything..hard to read but good pics. The second is a discussion about this.

http://www.clodtalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=2497&highlight=paralell+parallel+series

http://www.clodtalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=165&highlight=paralell+parallel+series
 
Thanks for the info Smaxxin. I have definately decided to go with the XR, now I just need to figure out which way to wire it. I read those threads, the diagrams are great, but which is the best way to go is still a bit cloudy.

What do you mean by motor stall? How does an electric motor stall? sorry for the probably dumb noob questions, but I am still very very new to electrics...

Thanks for the help man. :cheers:
 
same idea as a cpu case fan.. some of the older ones will do this.. if you stop it like with your finger or something it willl just set there untill you bump it to start it back up.. its like its in a dead spot on the magnets or coil and can't get enough push to get it going again.. electrics kinda have a push-coast-push-coast thing going.. kinda like a 4 stroke with the intake stroke.. its not creating power to turn itself therefor if it stops there it wont restart unless you move it a bit.. the reason this happens in series and not paralell is the fact that the motors are "sharing" the voltage.. there not on there own loop.. go back to speaker setups.. series adds the ohm loads together.. parralel divides them .. so you get more resistance in series therefor less voltage, slower speeds, and the batterys last longer.. so in series the motor sees less voltage therefor has a "bigger" dead zone.. and can stall easyer..
 
Motor stall happens when one axle gets in a bind and transfers all the power to the free axle. Think of it like a slip diff only the esc is your diff. When one motors starts drawing to much harder than the other motor you will get motor stall. As soon as it's out of a bind it will start pulling again. You shouldn't have to much trouble with this because of the lathe motors. The only way to use two motors without motor stall is have both motors on one spur like TXT or Twin Force but then you have drive shafts to worry about. I would suggest wiring it temporary and do a few test runs. As you saw in the discussions to each his own.
 

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