Double Barrel Flux

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So the only thing the cap pack will do is take away the added power strain on the esc's? Now to power the cap pack would I just get some Y jumpers for the batteries like I have for the esc. This way I can power both

---------- Post added at 11:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 AM ----------

190° is seriously pushing the envelope on a brushless motor. I'd shoot for a max of 170°, and go by whatever Castle says, not HPI.

Good to know, thank you
 
Battery boxes are installed but do need a little tweakin. All this weight up front should really help out.

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Much, much too much weight. You might get it well past take off speed but I really don't think you'll get it airborne. :D
 
I raise the front a bit and lower the back some too...This thing is looking beastly. 16.75 lbs isnt that bad for this kit. My High speed Rustler weighs almost 10 lbs and JohnRacerX's weighs something like 12 or 13lbs.
 
I havent decided on the shock setup yet, I'm still up in the air. Overall the truck will be slammed but all axles will be level to minimize power loss. The total weight actually surprised me, it feels much much heavier than it is. My nitro speed truck weighs 9.5lbs but this truck has 4 times the power so i should be ok.
 
You can shave off a bit more weight in all the solid pieces. But think about it this way. Sure it is 16.5 lbs..... but it has the power of two Fluxs. So essentially it is the power to weight ratio of a truck that is 8.25 lbs. Going to be a missile.
 
You can shave off a bit more weight in all the solid pieces. But think about it this way. Sure it is 16.5 lbs..... but it has the power of two Fluxs. So essentially it is the power to weight ratio of a truck that is 8.25 lbs. Going to be a missile.

That is an interesting way to put it, never would have thought of it that way :D
 


I just noticed a problem area. I learned my lesson the hardway with a 6S pack in my high speed Rusty. Those two screws that are above those two lipos. The first time you have a good wreck those screws will punch holes in your lipos.
 
Changed out the BB shafts for some CEN shafts which drop the ride height a good amount.

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Now I sat for awhile and pondered which body to use. Finally chose the Savage SS body. Can't wait to paint it!

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Ride'n low...

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Oh, Greywolf brought up a good point there, hopefully you'll be protecting those lipos a little better.
 
I did remove the bolts and turned them around plus I can brace the tower to prevent flex from a hard crash
 
I'm going to double strap all the batteries down with double sided Velcro of make a metal cover for them.
 
It still seems like the front is to low. Once you get up in the 65+MPH range Id be afraid that the wind pushing down on the lid will make it bottom out...Id be careful there. Back looks Good. Whole thing is looking pretty damn good :)
 
Well honestly we won't know how it handles until it makes its maiden run when ever that is lol. Now it would seem it would be in my best interest to mount some cooling fans above the motors and I'm also thinking of mounting some in front of the esc's. I'd like to find one big fan and mount either above or below the motors. Computer fans look like they would work but they are DC powered. Silly question but is lipo AC or DC? I honestly don't know.

As I lay here I'm really really contemplating buying some XS shocks and cutting the shock towers down a bit so I can lower the body and increase aerodynamics. It may also be in my best interest to mount a roll bar down the length of the truck in the middle just as an insurance policy.

---------- Post added at 9:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:06 PM ----------

It still seems like the front is to low. Once you get up in the 65+MPH range Id be afraid that the wind pushing down on the lid will make it bottom out...Id be careful there. Back looks Good. Whole thing is looking pretty damn good :)

If you slow down my 70+mph videos the truck really isnt squatting like you would think. Now above 80, I have no clue what's going to happen
 
No, on the computer fans. They turn too slow.
Everything in RC is DC current.
The only cooling I would consider would be an intake tunnel directed to the ESC.
So far I think the aerodynamics of the body are good with the front air dam and the rear window and tailgate cut off to eliminate the low pressure drag.

EDIT:
I just noticed you hadn't cut the rear window out completely.
 
Last edited:
I'm thinking the front will try to lift under power, but on decel/braking you better hope there nothing in the road like small rocks etc.
 
I can cut the back window but I might try to cut the window like I did with my nitro and angle the cut window to deflect the air. I deflected it towards the air filter on my nitro.

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---------- Post added at 8:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 8:25 AM ----------

would this fan work to help cool the flux torque motor?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Muchmore-Mt...adio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item2328eb8378

The other question would be how would I wire these on the truck?
 

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