Aluminum Wheel Pattern Opinions

[RAMTech-RC]

I have begun to machine several differnt wheels for the Maxx and Savage trucks. I'd like some opinions on which you would like better. The choices are:

1) Iron Cross with 3/8" offset
2) Iron Cross with no offset
3) Viper 6 spoke with 3/8" offset
Here are some 3d pictures.

Thanks for your help, I'm trying to see which one to make in higher volumes.

 

[dougc]

i would have to say i like number ... 1. but it is just my taste lol

 

[imnotsure]

#1 with a offset. what are you using to polish them with.

 

[RobH]

I'd have to agree #1 would be pretty sweet. If you're trying to sell these, they would have a degree of bling bling appeal for the gear-head, westcoast chopper fans. :bling:

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Viper 6 spoke with offset :thumbup:

 

[Candyman]

I gotta vote for both. Both have a cool factor. #2 is a little more like a stock wheel. But with a ton more class. And the Iron Cross is a big hit these days.

Do I hear the word FREEBIE echoing in my ears???? LOL!!!!

 

[mcvickj]

My vote is for #1.

 

[tothemaxxinnv]

I like the iron cross with the offset.:thumbup:

 

[robriguez]

I like the Iron Cross for a truck.... Number 2 would be kewl as hell for an onroad

 

[iced-nmt]

I vote for the 6 spoke, but, that's if it were for the NMT. For the Savage or T-Maxx, probably the Iron Cross with offset, but I still think the 6 spoke would be damn cool.

 

[RAMTech-RC]

Wheel finishes

Thanks for the replies. I guess we are going to make all three. For the finishing, we use 2 types:

1) Satin - this is a 2 step operation. First is a bight dip, that is an acid that removes a layer of aluminum, and the machining marks. Then, we do a clear anodize, to protect the aluminum from oxidation. This is similar in look the T-maxx stock weels, but lasts longer.

2) Chrome - this is a 3 step operation. First is a bight dip, that is an acid that removes a layer of aluminum, and the machining marks. Second is a Nickel strike, which seals the aliminum, and smoothes out the surface. Third is a hard chome, that give it the shine and the long lasting protection. Looks like a car bumper, or a hand ploshed rim.

Thanks, it will probably be a few weeks to figure all the processes out, but at least we are moving now.

Thanks again.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Ill beta test the 6 spoke since nobody else seems to want them :thumbup:

 

[KoRnKiD]

Hmmm there both cool I would have to go with the 6 spoke its looks like its got beadlocks.

 

[007kel]

6 spoke wheels would be my choice.

 

[Candyman]

Sounds like some good ideas there. Have you made any pre-production ones yet? Just wondering about the weight and strength. Looks good on the drawings. Can't wait to see the real thing.

 

[RAMTech-RC]

So far today, we are just getting the blanks from the first operation. In theory, they should be around 3.0 oz, but that will depend how much weight reduction we can take out. The Iron Cross will be heavier, but also much stronger.

 

[RC Jack]

I'd say number 1, with a deeper offset. You might even consider making them in a 2 piece design.

 

[NCNitro]

I would gladly beta test #1 with the offset :whistle:. Those are some very nice looking wheels!

 

[RAMTech-RC]

RC JACK,

That is what the CR Rims will be in a few weeks. I had a version of a flat sheet metal rim for sale for a few months. THey looked good to me, but I had to stop making them out of flat sheet metal. Too plain for my tastes. Once I come out with the PRO series, the CR will be the baby brother. 2 peice designs, for the e-bay crowd. Not as strong as solid billet, but looks great. Probably no plating either, or maybe 2 types of different colors. We just finished the outer rims for those. But the solid wheels are in the machine now, so I can't get to the 2 piece for about 3 or 4 weeks. The Iron Cross Rims with the 3/8 offset are sweet. Now its up to the Chrome Plater to do his thing.

 

[RC Jack]

Originally posted by RAMTech-RC
RC JACK,

That is what the CR Rims will be in a few weeks. I had a version of a flat sheet metal rim for sale for a few months. THey looked good to me, but I had to stop making them out of flat sheet metal. Too plain for my tastes. Once I come out with the PRO series, the CR will be the baby brother. 2 peice designs, for the e-bay crowd. Not as strong as solid billet, but looks great. Probably no plating either, or maybe 2 types of different colors. We just finished the outer rims for those. But the solid wheels are in the machine now, so I can't get to the 2 piece for about 3 or 4 weeks. The Iron Cross Rims with the 3/8 offset are sweet. Now its up to the Chrome Plater to do his thing.

The main reason, RamTech, for a 2 piece design is versatility. Running alloy rims, they can get damaged, thereby, replacing just the damaged part, as opposed to replacing the entire wheel/rim. A 2 piece design would allow just replacing the damaged part. Or, if you don't like that particular "spoke design", you can change it without buying a whole new wheel/rim. I machine my own wheels/rims and I won't make 1 piece rims. Now, I don't do this commercially, as you do, but, from a $$ standpoint, I'd go with versatility. And my rims are as strong as any 1 piece design, tho, I will say this, the spoke design will dictate the overall strength. I have "spider-web" wheel centers in the making and they definitely won't be good for bashing. The "Iron Dross" design that you're making will be very strong, either in 1 or 2 piece.

I'm sure you use CNC machines, (I have a Smithy Granite, not CNC), which make it very easy to make rims a 1 piece design, minimizing operations that are required in making them. A 2 piece, as you know, would require lathe & mill operations. It just seems to me that 2 piece would be more feasible. More work? Probably. More shcudas? Definitely! (just my .02 cents)

My rims...