1/10 Onroad Nitro...what kind?

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Malakai3

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I was looking for an on road nitro car, and found a coupel I really like. There's the Team Associated RC10 TC3 Plus @$310, the Hpi RS4-3 Evo @$279, and the Traxxas Nitro 4-Tec @ $300. I don't think I want the traxxas, and I need a car that I could eventually make raceable, but for now I want durability, and ease in tuning. As in durability, I know not many r/c's can survive a head on collision with a light post, I'm hoping that won't happen. so....what would you guys recommend? Preferrably an RTR, and if not, I'll just get the GS Racing Storm RTR I'm already thinking about.


Also, can the yokomo drift tires be used on nitro's? I think it might put some extra stress on the engine, but if not....IDK.

Thanks in advance!
 
the traxxas is horrible its hard to tune and isnt verry strong. i have the rs4 evo so thats what ill give feedback on. its durable and easy to tune. i have crashed it on 3 occasions and have only broken the front c-hub once. the second i hit my brothers leg and the car flipped and the third i hit a pebble and flipped. its still running.
 
i own a hpi rs3 ss.
all i can say is.. good car.
its fun to build and you can tune many things and its not hard to do.
if ya get your car tune settings correct then the car wil drive very good.
mine sticks to tharmac very well. thats without hop ups.
got a 1,35 hp engine in it. and it goes very fast.
i crashed it head on against my real size car's tire and nothing was broken.
put on all the hop ups and you got a very nice race car. but just dont expect to win from a r40, mtx3 etc.

i recommend you get a kit.
that way when ya build it and something brakes you know where and how to fix it.
kit cars are more raceable cars with tuning options.
rtr are mostly not
 
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For an on-road, that you will most likely be using at the parking lot, I suggest the Nitro TC3. Whether you get the Factory Team Kit (my preference) or the RTR Plus it's all up to you. The RTR plus has the 2 speed in it already. I'm not sure if the threaded shocks are included as well.

The reason I suggest the NTC3 is because it's an easy car to build OR repair. The shaft drive will keep drive train probs to a minimum (belts are prone to fraying and damage from pebbles). It is easily upgradeable with many supported hop-ups. It can also be raced right out of the box. You may want to change the engine as your level progresses but as a novice, it's great out of the box.
 
I've since changed my mind with cars. They're way too touchy for me, I like buggies more now, a new friend as of tonite, came down, with his Ofna Ultra GT, and I ran that, and my friends yokomo gt-4, and even if the gt-4 handled better, I still don't see the point in not bein able to go off road, nothing against them, just not as much fun for me, I get fun out of rippin around off road!!

It was strange how I met mike, up the street, me and andy, who has the gt-4, were hangin out, messin with the gt-4, and we heard a single speed nitro windin out, somewhere in the distance. We were both like, wtf? Let's say f-your RC10 (which doesn't yet run right, starts up and shuts down..another time.) and go steal his. So, we went to work, tryin to get his yokomo runnin again, I hat chargin glow plug ignitors by the way, and I definitely hate starter boxes! Anywho, I ran his yokomo around, and flipped on the grass, basically spun around a lot, and was amazed with it's speed, yet it had no control, so I didn't really care for it, hence I wanted a buggy. So, when andy flipped it into the grass, and stalled, we came back, and a guy in an f150 pulls up, he says "what frequency are you guys runnin on?" we were both taken aback, thinking, hey! maybe he's the guy with the other nitro! So we got to talkin, and hung out, and the only place he can drive his ofna is usually on the street, since his appartment doesn't have much land, so we went in my backyard, and ran his buggy for a while, and then he let me drive!! I was sooooooooooooooo pleased! It was really cool, I got to drive a 1/8 buggy, hang out with a friend, and make a new bashing friend!! Now, to just get my X-Terminator, since I can get every part, and it's only bout 5 minutes drive to my lhs, fully stocked with XTM I might add.

Phew, so anyways, thanks for all the input, but I've decided against a 1/10 onroad. Thanks anyways!!

(I bet you guys are glad you didn't write as much as me right?)
 
hate starterboxes?? i always laught when guys wank their pullstart 20 times and mine starts on the box within 2 sec :loser:

well everyone has his own fav car..

i dont like offroad at all.
 
but the batteries for starter boxes die so quick. I just don't care for them, I've used them, but I don't particularly like to.
 
They only die quickly when your engine isn't starting and you just keep trying to crank it over. A properly tuned engine will start within 5 seconds or less, after making contact with the starter wheel.

We use both the twin stick and 12 volt battery on our starter boxes. They last us all day and then some. On the twin sticks, just make sure you bring your peak charger to charge them in the field off your car battery.
 
Yeah, that's the problem, you have to get them started in order to tune them.

I'd much rather use the pullstart...just me.
 
i got my starter box powered to my car's accu. never runs out hehe.
i sometimes go bashing with a couple of others. all 4 of them got pullstart. now after seeing me their next engine is non pullstart.
i seen them wank it like 20 times.
i put my car on the box and broooommm!!! only needs 2 sec. if it doesn't start with in 5 sec. you know you got the tuning wrong. mostly i get it right the first try.

this is my first rc tho and first engine. i always thought a pullstart is very handy. till i got experienced with the starterbox. can't live without it.

and the engines without pullstart generate more hp.
 
Yeah I used to think the same thing. I hated starterboxes and glow starters because they would die so fast. Then once I actually got my cars running right, a glow driver lasts for months now. And with the starter box I can hook up the glow driver and start it up with the push of one finger on top of the head. I used to get arm pump pulling on a pullstart and now I feel like a idiot. The only thing that sucks now is having to lug around the starterbox, but that is no big deal.
 
True, I could just use my friends starter box I guess.
 
If the cars tuned propperly, 1 maybe 2 tugs on a pullstart and it fires right up? All I will use is pullstarts,just my opinion.
 
What about throwing drift tires on a nitro R/C. bad idea? I thought the freewheeling might be bad, but IDK. Thanks! I may get a car, since there's so much friggin parking lot 'round hurr..HAHA
 
Malakai3 said:
What about throwing drift tires on a nitro R/C. bad idea? I thought the freewheeling might be bad, but IDK. Thanks! I may get a car, since there's so much friggin parking lot 'round hurr..HAHA

If you can get a good setup with rubbers, it *should* be fine. But if you do PVC pipes on a nitro, you'll end up overheating the engine.
 
What if I vent the body? like windows and windshields? I'll have a specific drift body so...

Also, what would happen if 2nd gear kicked in while drifting?
 
If you're hitting 2nd gear drifiting, you're engine is probably overheated lol...and no, more cooling openings on the body won't help. Even running without a body won't help.

Basically, the problem with nitro engines is that they need to have air running through the engine to keep it cool. When you're drifting, you don't have air moving throught it. Not to mention there's no resistence when running PVC pipe so you can rev the engine really hard really fast.

The only hope you have is to get a nice rubber tire drift setup. Since rubber tires will have a lot more resistence than PVC pipe.

Your other option is to just get an electric. They don't overheat and you can drive them whatever way you want.
 
yeah, but the batteries are so darn expensive, so..
 
You can get batteries for $35...3000mah prebuilt pack.

most expensive is the charger and ESC
 
well, being 17 and paying for everything cept a house, water, heating and electric, and only making 6.30 per hour, and less than 20 hours a week, 35 dollars for about 20-30 minutes of runtime is crap, imo.

Thanks though!
 

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