if you dont have an FOC consider one added strength and better acceleration... you could drop the front drivetrain(diff. axles drive shafts etc.).... smaller tires
hahahaha that crazy! i was out driving my maxx in front of my hous the other day and a cop drove by rolled down his window and said "hey that thing is awesome!" and drove off... i didnt think of it but i shoulda had him use his radar to see how fast it tops out at
i love my tmaxx 3.3 i wouldnt trade it for any electric vehicle. my first rc cars were electric but it I'm not the best with electronics so messing with a battery an esc and a motor just doesn't go well. and I'm sure I'm not the only eletronically challenged person. so having nitro i dont have to...
if you get anew 3.3 you should reallylook into the davis diesel con-rod it will toughen up ur 3.3 and you wont have to worry about split con-rods again
where to start...
-davis diesel con-rod
-robinson racing tranny gears
-robinson racing spur and clutch bell
-rpm front a-arms
-traxxas 2075 servos for steering and throttle
-alum. front bulk head
-alum. steering mounts
-alum. bell crank with plastic servo saver
-steel cvd's by traxxas...
thanks I've put a lot of time and $$$$... i guess i just like to see what my maxx can do rolex and trust me it goes where ever i want it go... those tires are the chevron tires from traxxas....
u want the notch towards the intake so it pulls the fresh fuel and air into the cylinder... if u take off the header with the piston at TDC you shouldnt be able to see the con-rod
yeah i pulled it out yesterday and the gears look fine.. i think I'm just going to order a new ring and pinon set and order a new diff outdrive set... that should fixe the problem hahaha
turn on ur radio and reciever take off the air filter and push the throttle like you are breaking the slide in the carb should close but htere should be a little gap aprox. 1-2 mm or the width of a credit card... adjust the idle screw til u get the right gap...