gandalfnz
RCTalk Addict
Just went trough my box of clutch bells and found a 18/23 which you said you used for your speed runs.
How fast can it go on a stock clutch bell?
How fast can it go on a stock clutch bell?
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Just went trough my box of clutch bells and found a 18/23 which you said you used for your speed runs.
How fast can it go on a stock clutch bell?
Thanks!Looks like it's running real nice!
Have you ever considered buying an SH engine instead of VX?
Been reading about it, and apparently its more grunty, also the fact that it comes with a slide carb instead of rotary makes me believe it would be more responsive.
Considering buying one of them from Ali.
Let me know what you think?
Funny you ask, I've got one on the shelf waiting to be swapped in. Amain is selling piston/sleeve pairs for $20 so it's a tempting basher engine.
It looks & feels a bit nicer. The connecting rod is knife-edged and polished as opposed to the squarish one from a VX-18, for example.
I put SH's rotary carb on my VX-18 engine very successfully, I don't doubt their overall quality is better.
I think I'd try it in a truck since it's purported to be torquier; I don't know that I'd experience any increase in performance over the VX-18 in something light like an onroad, where a high-revving .12 has more to offer in terms of performance gains.
You would need a conrod for it too
Only another $8 - https://www.amainhobbies.com/sh-engines-.18-connecting-rod-shete1808a1/p524231
I even got the wrist pin and clips, another couple bucks. I've put together a whole rebuild "kit" for 4 different engines just to have peace of mind when running them.
Apparently it's the same conrod as the Dynamite .19T; I've had them side by side and couldn't tell the difference.
I havn't put a slide carb on a VX-18 yet, just the fancier rotary carb from SH because I though I was having tuning issues with the default one, though that might have just been my inexperience at the time.
I haven't seen anything bigger than a .18 with a side exhaust, but on the flipside rear exhaust small block engines tend to be .12's rather than .15 or .18's
Here's one the captures the sound pretty well, I thought it was a bit "smoother" a note.Aweome, I might grab an SH and a few piston/sleeve as well, spending way too much on this hobby.
Did you say that your VX sounded different with this header, is this car of yours running, any chance of a video?
View attachment 151773
This listing has both types, you want "type 3"
I think in that video I'd upgraded to the SH rotary carb - https://www.amazon.com/Redcat-Racing-TE1809D1-SH18-Carburetor/dp/B00E5L8L10
That's a little overpriced from amazon, I got a couple for about $35.
I think the fuel cap plays a bit of a factor, I found the stock one can restrict flow a little, reducing the fuel pressure and making the engine run lean / cut out unexpectedly, especially if it gets gummed up with oil.
I also upgraded to JX 4409MG servos (~$15 each), they're strong and speedy without drawing too much current.
I don't understand what you mean about the fuel cap, its sole purpose is just to seal the tank so that vacuum is possible.
I noticed on my Ffish build, there are air bubbles in the fuel line when the car just stops....
which upgrades according to you made a decent performance increase over the stock gear?
I think it's from the fuel filter, I tried using one too, but it would collect bubbles and give uneven tuning.
I had it manifest in shutdowns / lean runs when they'd get sucked through all at once.
Bearings throughout the hubs, servos with less slop, aluminum steering rack, hexes, exhaust manifold, clutch bell, fuel tank cap, carburetor, upgraded radio gear to get finer endpoint control: Radiolink in my case, with the RC6G receiver. Also has tunable gyro settings which this car responds to well
I've been running mine on Torco 30% fuel with an OS #8 and it's been running great, and staying cool even with multiple long pulls to top speed.
CVD's on the front are arguably a good upgrade, though they need some extra finishing to work optimally. The stock dogbones scrape against the cups at max steering throw.
Upgrades that are more vanity: Exhaust that points 90 degrees away from the car. I find the angled exhausts spray too much on the body / rear quarter. and then it collects dust and grit.
CVD's on the rear look cool and turn smoothly, maybe better for max speed runs. More maintenance / build effort though.
I'm starting to appreciate why my FW-06 came with CVD's only on the front.
Now that I think about it, all the important upgrades are the ones that bridge the gap between the stock Fish and an FW-06.
Aluminum diff cases allow you to tune your mesh on the differentials better via shims, I find the ring gears sometimes come out-of-center/round with the diff case, the screws are probably tightened down 1-2-3-4 instead of in a star pattern and needs a bit of loosening/re-tightening to mesh smoothly all the way around.
Upgrades I have removed: Servo saver, fuel filter, breather air filter - I like the 2-piece stock one more. There's kinda crappy versions out there, but the "real" one with a fairly thick boot and 2 fine sponges does an amazing job, it's even caught muddy water and kept it from hitting the engine.
What happened with your spurs, when they ended up damaged like that, bad mesh or stones?