Thunder Tiger Evo-12 swapped into a Kyosho FW-06

[gandalfnz]

Cheers for all the useful info.

I plan this time to submerge the whole chassis as in photos into a ultrasonic bath.
Interesting to see whether water gets into diff housings.

 

[tudordewolf]

Cheers for all the useful info.

I plan this time to submerge the whole chassis as in photos into a ultrasonic bath.
Interesting to see whether water gets into diff housings.

If you look closely at the screw holes for the sway bar mounts (nearly impossible to find the bars though), you'll notice two of them are holes right into the diff case. In the aluminum version you can plug them with m2 set screws, the plastic ones you could use m1.7 plastic screws, but if they're too long they'll hit the ring gear.

So, yeah, some design flaws, fixable but ever present.

 

[gandalfnz]

Oh, thanks for the heads up, def will plug those...

 

[tudordewolf]

I plan this time to submerge the whole chassis as in photos into a ultrasonic bath.

Your restoration posts are what convinced me to buy an ultrasonic cleaner.

Post pics of however you build it! I've come to really like this type.

 

[gandalfnz]

I will keep you updated.
I just purchased some parts from China, when they arrive, its assembly time.
To be honest, I expected them to cost less lol

Shipping from China is not cheap anymore, must be this covid business

To be hones, I expected them to cost less lol

Shipping from China is not cheap anymore, must be this covid business
Oh, and congrats on the US cleaner, you will be glad you got one.

 

[tudordewolf]

Shipping from China is not cheap anymore, must be this covid business

Depends on the seller your use, "Jz9193 Store" is usually able to combine everything under aliexpress standard for me for ~$3 on the whole order, it might depend when you're ordering it to. They also have the lowest prices I've seen, there's a few sellers with the "full catalog" but different prices. For example, they ask $2.77 for the aluminum steering set, not $5.

Minor tip, I found that the traxxas exhaust coupler, which is narrower on one end than the other, gives a much better seal than their standard one, which is too big on one end for the manifold, even pinched down with a zip tie.

 

[gandalfnz]

Depends on the seller your use, "Jz9193 Store" is usually able to combine everything under aliexpress standard for me for ~$3 on the whole order, it might depend when you're ordering it to. They also have the lowest prices I've seen, there's a few sellers with the "full catalog" but different prices. For example, they ask $2.77 for the aluminum steering set, not $5.

Minor tip, I found that the traxxas exhaust coupler, which is narrower on one end than the other, gives a much better seal than their standard one, which is too big on one end for the manifold, even pinched down with a zip tie.

I have a few of them. Thanks for the tip!

 

[gandalfnz]

Love how manual states oil bearings everywhere, yet on the wheels, only bushings...
Just added ball bearings to my order.
Do you know by any chance if the diffs inside have bearings, or are also bushings only?

 

[tudordewolf]

Love how manual states oil bearings everywhere, yet on the wheels, only bushings...
Just added ball bearings to my order.
Do you know by any chance if the diffs inside have bearings, or are also bushings only?

Only the wheel hubs had bushings - inside the diffs are bearings, 2 large ones and 2 small ones for the driving gear.

Conveniently, there's only those 2 sizes of bearing throughout the car, 5x10mm and 10x14mm - the clutch uses 2 of the small ones.

A third size, 5x8x2.5mm, is used for the steering, and can be found as bearings instead of bushings, but that's not as important.

 

[gandalfnz]

Well, I just realized I have the bearings for the steering, so why not....

 

[gandalfnz]

A great idea came to my mind!
Since I am quite reluctant to let my two boys drive our RS4's and Kyoshos due to parts scarcity and prices, I decided to build them this RX7 Flying Fish, so they can trash it as much as they like.
This is what its gonna look like.
Its gonna be a stunner!

 

[coldvod]

A great idea came to my mind!
Since I am quite reluctant to let my two boys drive our RS4's and Kyoshos due to parts scarcity and prices, I decided to build them this RX7 Flying Fish, so they can trash it as much as they like.
This is what its gonna look like.
Its gonna be a stunner!

View attachment 151071

View attachment 151072

Love the rx7 body. I might have to get a nitro hsp. I do like my volcano lookalike quite abit

 

[tudordewolf]

Nice!

can trash it as much as they like.

I find myself bashing my Flying Fish(es) more than anything else for that exact reason; I don't even cringe when they cartwheel. My last rebuild had me hammering the chassis flat with a mallet.

 

[gandalfnz]

Nice!


I find myself bashing my Flying Fish(es) more than anything else for that exact reason; I don't even cringe when they cartwheel. My last rebuild had me hammering the chassis flat with a mallet.

I constantly have the fear of crashing my RS4 and Kyoshos, my heart sinks if they even touch the curb....
Agreed, having a basher and worrying about crashing is the way to go.

 

[gandalfnz]

Hi

I knew I was gonna have issues with putting this back together.
Can you tell me please, does this look right?
I installed the two bearings (two and bottom), on the first pic.
Last pic, is there suppose to be a gap where I put an arrow in? That just creates too much flop, but if I make it flush against the top plastic, then spring is too loose....

What am I missing here?

Cheers

 

[gandalfnz]

Looks like it does go that way, but top lock nut needs to be loosened otherwise its too tight to turn...

 

[tudordewolf]

Looks like it does go that way, but top lock nut needs to be loosened otherwise its too tight to turn...

I would tighten down the spring a little more. It's also important that the "flats" on the bushings go between the middle linkage and the steering horns, not against the screws - they should move freely even tightened down. Here's mine again: I flipped the ball posts so disregard that (green markup). Red shows the bushings, white you've already got the right way around.

 

[gandalfnz]

I would tighten down the spring a little more. It's also important that the "flats" on the bushings go between the middle linkage and the steering horns, not against the screws - they should move freely even tightened down. Here's mine again: I flipped the ball posts so disregard that (green markup). Red shows the bushings, white you've already got the right way around.

Thanks for taking the time to take those pics bud.
Turns out I installed it right from the start.
I think you spring might be too tight, I read somewhere the spring gape is suppose to be around 3mm, but as is on mine it already feels tight enough.
I was surprised to find that there is slop in this ALU linkage, on the plastic one there was none, especially in the area where those two small bushings go, that you mentioned.

All the parts except the bearings arrived, I placed a separate order with the same store on the same day, but they got shipped separately, so now I am bloody tempted to just put the original bushings back in (wheels), however I know if I do that, I will not have the patience to take it apart again and install the bearings........so must be patient for now and just wait for the bearings to arrive.
Other than than, assembly is going quite well, and car is looking awesome. Soon it will be break in time.

I must say this car is a very very good copy of RS4, in fact some parts of it are above RS4's design, such as pivot ball suspension, seems like they took this idea from Kyosho, which is great.
For the price and easy availability of spare parts, this car is just awesome!
I will upload some pics soon.

Again, many thanks!

 

[tudordewolf]

I think you spring might be too tight, I read somewhere the spring gap is suppose to be around 3mm, but as is on mine it already feels tight enough.

It's deliberate, I want almost no give in my servo saver, and that's on my truck so it's under more force. I'm a little paranoid because I've had it back itself out before from the steering motion.

I don't run any servos nicer than $20 so I don't mind roughing them up.

Since you find yourself liking that car, keep in mind that their other 1/10ths are built on the same platform with a slightly longer chassis and arms- once you've rebuilt one you know them all.

I got mine up to 43mph with this (ebay) clutch bell with the stock VX-18, and 45mph with the Evo-12P on stock gearing. I'll see if I can hit 50 or even 60 with the 1.4x ratio locked diffs. They also make one-way diffs, same link, there's lots you can do with this car.

 

[gandalfnz]

It's deliberate, I want almost no give in my servo saver, and that's on my truck so it's under more force. I'm a little paranoid because I've had it back itself out before from the steering motion.

I don't run any servos nicer than $20 so I don't mind roughing them up.

Since you find yourself liking that car, keep in mind that their other 1/10ths are built on the same platform with a slightly longer chassis and arms- once you've rebuilt one you know them all.

I got mine up to 43mph with this (ebay) clutch bell with the stock VX-18, and 45mph with the Evo-12P on stock gearing. I'll see if I can hit 50 or even 60 with the 1.4x ratio locked diffs. They also make one-way diffs, same link, there's lots you can do with this car.

I will get another one for sure when a good deal pops up, but since you made me aware, I will only look for the pivot ball suspension.
It just looks way more robust and easier to tweak the wheels toe in.....etc.

Also will def stock up on parts, not sure if such good parts availability is because they are still produced, or just a stock back log?

Would like to see some of yours awesome speedruns?