The X-Terminator build & repair log

[J’sCrawler]

Disagree? Have you ever owned an OS engine after telling me you're a noob to Nitro?

Thats why I said "pretty much" tuned, very small adjustments to be made straight out of the box if any, I've owned 20-30 OS speeds in my time.

This is also why I said you can put it into a MUGEN (IMO the best racing RC made) in the future.

Either way, good luck brah.

I am just saying a $300-500 engine in a $100 car just doesn’t make sense. In the future in a better kit, sure, but not in this thing.
Thank you

 

[J’sCrawler]

Do I fill this with diff fluid….. because I’m going to…… or is it just a bit of grease.

 

[Greywolf74]

Do I fill this with diff fluid….. because I’m going to…… or is it just a bit of grease.
View attachment 176760

If its a sealed diff, which typically on buggies they are, then Id definitely put diff fluid in it.

 

[J’sCrawler]

If its a sealed diff, which typically on buggies they are, then Id definitely put diff fluid in it.

You can see the oring around the diff, the outdrives have 2 orings on them. This thing was seriously dry. I greased all the orings and filled it with 40k weight.

 

[J’sCrawler]

The front diff looks like it was just a grease.

Almost done with the front, the hinge pins are bent so I’ll just leave it sort of placed together.

 

[J’sCrawler]

Cleaned and greased bearings through the entire chassis and changed out the shock fluids. I found that the losi ten scte shock springs I had are a perfect fit. It’s not so stiff now. Cleaned out the old fuel from the tank and I have the pipe soaking in denatured alcohol. Replaced the hinge pins with the last replacements available in the world!! There’s still a few bent screws to replace but it’s pretty much together.

I'm awaiting some fuel, a motor, and some extra goodies that will get this thing rolling!
My first mod will be some new shocks. The caps are bent. The fronts are the same length as the xmaxx /tmaxx shocks I have on my scx10.2

 

[J’sCrawler]

 

[J’sCrawler]

too bad you don't live in canada. the hobby shop i buy from has the original bodies
https://webstore.eliminator-rc.com/xtm-green-xterminator-body
https://webstore.eliminator-rc.com/xtm-rtr-xterminator-body
And even the aftermarket roll cage
https://webstore.eliminator-rc.com/hard-body-z-roll-cage-xterminator
But bodies such as the one below have enough room to drill 2 holes at the rear
https://www.amainhobbies.com/leadfi...tactic-1-8-buggy-body-clear-lfrn2018/p1444050

I actually just purchased some hinge pins from that gentleman, shipping wasn’t terrible but, for a discontinued part you will do what you have to. I will be ordering a few more things for this car in the future. My front shock tower seems to have a contour to it and I’m not convinced it should

 

[J’sCrawler]

Last night and tonight I have been going through a break in process of my SH .28 engine in the XTerminator. It’s getting easier to start and idling better. Still super rich but idle gap is set about that1/16 or slightly more. Temps are about 25 outside but definitely warmer in the garage where I’m huffing the fumes.
I do the standard prime the carb, preheat the motor with a heat gun, and short quick pulls. I have enrichened the LSN to compensate for my altitude and cold temps.
It’s coming along

 

[J’sCrawler]

Disagree? Have you ever owned an OS engine after telling me you're a noob to Nitro?

Thats why I said "pretty much" tuned, very small adjustments to be made straight out of the box if any, I've owned 20-30 OS speeds in my time.

This is also why I said you can put it into a MUGEN (IMO the best racing RC made) in the future.

Either way, good luck brah.

Thanks for the good advice, if I ever get a nice nitro kit I will try out an OS. I did however get the SH running in this cold a$$ weather we have right now. That Xtm motor is a paperweight considering a sleeve and piston costs more than half that of an entry level motor. Taiwan motor for a Taiwan car. Better car, better motor.
After the break in let the tuning begin.

 

[J’sCrawler]

I will need new servos. The servo for steering is just dead, I attempted to use one I had laying around but I’m guessing it wasn’t exactly rated for a 2s lipo because it really didn’t do much after being powered up….oh well it was an RTR reedy from my element truck.
The throttle servo doesn’t seem to have a neutral, it opens up then goes all the way back to full brake, for now I just have this on a spektrum radio system. The transmitter has a brake “rate” but doesn’t really let me set end points for braking. I am new to the nitro scene so maybe I’m over thinking it. It was on an Elec vehicle so I’ll have to see if I can set throttle/brake endpoints without an esc.
last night I was up late running fuel through it. It should go through the idle portion of the break in smoothly now. I’m about 2 tanks in. Can’t drive it until I get a steering servo and a couple of those linkage stopper deals. I don’t know what they are called but my Tekno uses them on the sway bar links.

 

[WickedFog]

Which radio do you have?

All servos have a neutral position. To fix the throttle servo not going to neutral, make sure your throttle trim is at neutral on your radio. Remove the servo horn and turn the system on so the servo centers. Replace the horn so it centers your linkage in the neutral position.

But you need to set your endpoints. Some radios have obvious endpoint adjustments, some don't seem to, but may have a way to do so using the dual rate knob. Like the Axial SCX24 uses the dual rate knob to set the servo endpoints. I suggest you do a search for 'your radio here' endpoint adjustments and see if there is a way to do so.

If your radio does not have a way to set endpoints, you risk burning up your servos, so I would suggest a new radio. You can pick up a Flysky GT3B right now for $36 here...
Targethobby Flysky FS-GT3B Rc Transmitter & FS-GR3E Receiver, 2.4Ghz 3 Channel Rc Car Remote Controller and Receiver https://a.co/d/iOd0GlE

 

[J’sCrawler]

My research shows this servo is a piece of crap and isn’t responding to endpoints.

Which radio do you have?

All servos have a neutral position. To fix the throttle servo not going to neutral, make sure your throttle trim is at neutral on your radio. Remove the servo horn and turn the system on so the servo centers. Replace the horn so it centers your linkage in the neutral position.

But you need to set your endpoints. Some radios have obvious endpoint adjustments, some don't seem to, but may have a way to do so using the dual rate knob. Like the Axial SCX24 uses the dual rate knob to set the servo endpoints. I suggest you do a search for 'your radio here' endpoint adjustments and see if there is a way to do so.

If your radio does not have a way to set endpoints, you risk burning up your servos, so I would suggest a new radio. You can pick up a Flysky GT3B right now for $36 here...
Targethobby Flysky FS-GT3B Rc Transmitter & FS-GR3E Receiver, 2.4Ghz 3 Channel Rc Car Remote Controller and Receiver https://a.co/d/iOd0GlE

It’s the dx3 and sr315 receiver. It does have end point adjustment mode.
It’s obviously a servo issue because it resets to neutral at a full clockwise rotation. Full throttle goes full counterclockwise rotation, let go of the trigger and it goes full clockwise rotation. There’s no in between

 

[J’sCrawler]

Back in my racing days I used to pinch my own sleeves with a die tool I made. Not the end of the world if you can’t find a matching set, unmatched sets tend not to last as long and honestly never really run or perform properly. Based off your first post, looks like you are newer to nitro. If that’s the case, I’d recommend a OS.21 engine. On the higher side price wise but out of the box they are pretty much tuned. P3 turbo plug and some VP 30%. Lots of times new guys to nitro can’t find a tune on a factory engine or they have leaks etc. Wouldn’t want a bad engine leaving a bad taste in your mouth.

IMO that engine is a paperweight. Could it be salvaged, sure but not worth it. That OS engine can be removed at a later date and installed in a nice MUGEN

So if you would have said OS engines are Japanese I would have been SOLD. Thanks for the recommendation

 

[J’sCrawler]

Got it running, idling, and reving freely. I would say the idle break in is done, now it needs a battery pack, and a steering servo so I can drive it, to finish the break in and begin to tune!

 

[J’sCrawler]

 

[J’sCrawler]

my first real run of this thing after break in. I gave it the onions!

 

[J’sCrawler]

I painted a body for it. It’s a bittydesign vision intended for a Tekno nb48 2.0

 

[J’sCrawler]

Gus wouldn’t get out of the Photo Booth

 

[WickedFog]

Love that paint job! Is Gus a Chihuahua?