Rustler camber links

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DavidB1126

Team Bomb Pop
Supporter
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
6,497
Reaction score
10,789
Location
Baltimore
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
  3. Crawling
  4. Scale Builder
Snapped the camber link again. I have the Traxxas aluminum links. Should I go with the RPM links, Amazon links, or stock rustler vxl steel links? I might have the stock slash ones in my spare parts bag so I might use that and adjust them.
IMG_20230107_124225_01.jpg
 
My recommendation is either TRX stock steel (adjustable) or RPM nylon (non-adjustable). If you select RPM, you'll have to live with about -2deg or so negative camber. No biggie. Just looks a bit odd.

My Rustler basher uses RPM; Rustler speed/grass runner Lunsford Ti adjustable. Only using the Lunsford titanium's because that's what was on the years old R1E when I transferred parts to the new R43X. Have a full set of TRX steel as back-ups.
 
Last edited:
Uh oh. Grey and I were just talking about the fact that Traxxas touts their 7075 links as "stronger than titanium". Hardy har har... yeah ok. I would say a 1/8" oak dowel rod would hold up better. I had their aluminum links on my Jato that snapped like pretzels stix. If you can find Lunsford Titanium links, snatch them up quick. Otherwise, the oem steel ones will be your best bet.
 
^^ What Kevin says ^^

Yeah, David, there are lots of good uses for aluminum on an RC. Camber links is not one of them-at least in my opinion.

Especially 7075. Strong, but brittle. 6061 is more ductile and forgiving in an application like that. Again, in my opinion. Tried making 7075 rear axles for my rc drag racer back in the day. Found they'd snap when smacking the sidewall of the track. Went back to 6061. They'd bend once in while but would never fail catastrophically.

Oh, if you go with the RPM, you'll need the OEM #3642 shoulder screws. You may still have them in your pit box. Don't look now-they're Phillips head. At least mine are. Think the newer ones are hex. Good luck. Cheers. 'AC'
 
Right now I just replaced it with a stock slash steel one I had since I am on a day trip. Also the crack in the top plate got all the way through but looks like it's holding up. I am going to get a set of ruster vxl links, rustler pro top plate, and some other parts off of Jenny's rc. I'll get the steel links and then the titanium links if I find them. Traxxas is very hard to believe in what they state for their aluminum and other stuff. I got a lot of screws so I'll find them if needed.

PXL_20230107_205510145.jpg


PXL_20230107_203730767.jpg
 
A.O.K. on the field fix, David. When all else fails, go back to OEM. ;)

Yep, found a weak point. Adding in aluminum bling is great. One of the downsides, though, is that along with adding strength at the point of install, it transfers shock and vibration to the next weak point. In this case, the top plate. RPM links have a bit of give and recover to them to help mitigate shock transfer. Something to think about. Cheers. 'AC'
 
I was driving with positive and negative camber at the boardwalk today. Looks funny but still driveable.

FB_IMG_1673129427610.jpg


FB_IMG_1673129429226.jpg
 
Hey, board track. How do those Anaconda tires handle the wood surface? Great place to run. Yeah, at times Rusty's FR steering looks at bit strange. That's o.k., you've got plenty of company there. . .
 
There slick. Also it's cold out and I don't get traction on the concrete or the road. Planning to get all new wheels and tires since I blew open a rear tires. Well almost blew open.
 
I have them on my tekno et410.2. they are bigger diameter than stock, I believe 4mm vs 3mm. Problem is that you have to drill out plastic rod ends so it makes them even weaker. I already broke one, so in future if I break more I will replace broken with stock tekno.

As you can see in the picture, the black camber link is black stock tekno

IMG_20230101_120808693_HDR~2.jpg
 
3mm Lunsford all around, including rear struts replacing the shocks. Ball ends and ball end cups. TRX eye ends and shoulder screws on the struts. Original R1E, circa 2006. Full-prep bracket class.

Same Lunsford's on the 2023 R43X -except for the struts. They're in the pit box now.

018_2006 chassis.JPG
 
My recommendation is either TRX stock steel (adjustable) or RPM nylon (non-adjustable). If you select RPM, you'll have to live with about -2deg or so negative camber. No biggie. Just looks a bit odd.

My Rustler basher uses RPM; Rustler speed/grass runner Lunsford Ti adjustable. Only using the Lunsford titanium's because that's what was on the years old R1E when I transferred parts to the new R43X. Have a full set of TRX steel as back-ups.
Maybe you could answer my question too

I accidently purchased rpm camber links part 81264 for my traxxas rustlser 2wd vxl but realized I have the stock turn buckles rather then camber links . Can I switch and should I switch to the rpm camber links ? I've never had real issues with my turnbuckles I simply bought the camber links because they were green and I thought they'd look good .

What are the pros and cons if there are any if I switch ? What does the -2deg or so negative camber you mentioned mean?

Any input is greatly appreciated
 
Hey Mika. Welcome to the forum.

You should be able to swap in the RPM links for the turnbuckles no problem. You'll need two (2) pkg of TRA3542 Shoulder Screws to mount the RPM links if you don't already have those. Easiest way to ensure they'll fit before removing the turnbuckles is lay the FR or RR RPM camber links alongside the turnbuckles on the truck. Should be the same length, of nearly so depending on if you have a lot of camber set in.

Pros to making the switch is you'll not have to concern yourself with deciding what camber to set in. Camber will be fixed ~ (-) 2deg., meaning the top of the tire will look tilted in slightly. And, of course, you'll get the green color you like. That's a big pro. :thumbs-up: RPM camber links are also quite durable and will take a lot of abuse. Also, they won't rust or corrode.

Cons include not being able to adjust camber. Camber aids the truck in turning. Basically, the more aggressive the cornering, the more camber needed-up to a point. Negative two degrees, e.g., (-)2deg, is a good compromise between straight line running and cornering. If cornering a lot is what you do, perhaps the adjustable turnbuckles are the better. Try them both and find out.

Hope this helps. Cheers. 'AC'
 
Back
Top