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REVO-5309
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #23
i have found a better spot for the header/second tank. this spot provides better protection against air bubbles. the spot i had the tank before gave me some air bubbles when i turned left and right as the position i had the tank only aloud for the fuel to travel forward and back with the weighted fuel line.
so now the fuel line is floating at the bottom and is constantly submerged unless upside down which I'm not too worried about. the main reason i have this second tank in is for the mid tank lean issue which this does a perfect job of fixing.
i tested it the other day, main tank was empty, temp was normal. so i put all the remaining fuel back into the main tank. instantly it ran lean, temps jumped straight up. so i just idled it home and packed it up.
the header tank does work, i love it and dont think ill run without one again, at least not with a BB motor. the lrp z.28r spec 3 motor runs really well and at a nice constant temp when the header tank is on. id recommend this setup for anyone that needs a tad extra fuel and is worried about the mid tank lean.
---------- Post added at 10:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:14 PM ----------
I'm still in the process of running this motor in, atm I'm trying to keep temp near and between 95-110 degrees C.
iv since last update put a new throttle linkage in, and installed the return spring that new era provided. it works perfect and opens 100% and closes back to 0% without an issue.
slowly working out the small issues when ever its not raining. hoping it doesn't rain tomorrow while I'm home between tafe and work.
so now the fuel line is floating at the bottom and is constantly submerged unless upside down which I'm not too worried about. the main reason i have this second tank in is for the mid tank lean issue which this does a perfect job of fixing.
i tested it the other day, main tank was empty, temp was normal. so i put all the remaining fuel back into the main tank. instantly it ran lean, temps jumped straight up. so i just idled it home and packed it up.
the header tank does work, i love it and dont think ill run without one again, at least not with a BB motor. the lrp z.28r spec 3 motor runs really well and at a nice constant temp when the header tank is on. id recommend this setup for anyone that needs a tad extra fuel and is worried about the mid tank lean.
---------- Post added at 10:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:14 PM ----------
I'm still in the process of running this motor in, atm I'm trying to keep temp near and between 95-110 degrees C.
iv since last update put a new throttle linkage in, and installed the return spring that new era provided. it works perfect and opens 100% and closes back to 0% without an issue.
slowly working out the small issues when ever its not raining. hoping it doesn't rain tomorrow while I'm home between tafe and work.
Last edited:
Zdragon71
Hardcore RCTalk User
I'm wanting to install another tank on my revo for that same reason. I keep burning plugs more often than i should and I've fixed all and any leaks already. It still seems to go through plugs too often so I'm thinking its because of the leaning mid tank problem.
nitroroosta
RCTalk Basher
Have ya got any vids. yet?I've got that same engine on my MGT,if the REVO can handle it I may make the swap
---------- Post added at 6:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:53 PM ----------
Oh yea just saw the vid AMAZING
---------- Post added at 6:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:53 PM ----------
Oh yea just saw the vid AMAZING
roachbug
RCTalk Basher
i like it
REVO-5309
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #27
its running better and better everytime i take it out. altho I'm kinda scared of punching the throttle until at least half way through 1st. i have the LSN tuned not and it just wants to flip and the HSN i can still lean out a bit more but I'm just over 1/4 gallon though maybe coming up to 1/2 but yeh.
---------- Post added at 5:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:31 PM ----------
lol, exhaust fell off the other day while i was doing some little jumps.... wow its so loud. my ears were ringing for a while afterwards when i had to shut it off. and that was at idle.
---------- Post added at 5:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:31 PM ----------
lol, exhaust fell off the other day while i was doing some little jumps.... wow its so loud. my ears were ringing for a while afterwards when i had to shut it off. and that was at idle.
ozziii
RCTalk Qualifier
That header tank set up looks good, how much difference does it make to the low fuel lean out, does it get rid of it all together or just minimize it. I wouldn't mind trying to find some suitable components & fitting a header tank myself, although I only have the 3.3 in mine still. Does the size of the header tank & the height/position its mounted in have an effect on how well it works.
You should get some1 to get some good video footage of your bb Revo & post it up.
You should get some1 to get some good video footage of your bb Revo & post it up.
REVO-5309
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #30
I don't think the size is that big a deal. I have no issues with mid tank lean. I can run the main tank empty and its only when the header tank starts running out that it leans out. I think the position/height would make a difference. I don't think u can have it too high or low. They put the original tank level with the carb
Did you upgrade anything in your trans?
With mine, I kept shelling two speed gears. I replaced everything with RRP steel in the trans. I also run 1/8 scale clutch/bell/flywheel on it with alloy shoes. Once your LRP breaks in fully, you may run into the same issues.
With mine, by the time I got a gallon or so into it, the clutch would slip with an 1/8th clutch setup running composite shoes. Then my day was done. I threw in a set of alloy shoes and then I realized how much power I had been loosing to the clutch! Now I get 2nd gear wheelies...
I also replaced the slipper clutch pads with an entire brake disk from either an old savage or old t-maxx that I had laying around. My slipper shoes crumbled on me. Using the brake disk vs 3 little pads allows for a finer adjustment with the extra torque of the BB in there.
I also haven't had any mid-tank lean issues on the revo. Runs stable full to empty. Usually runs out before I catch it because the engine pitch doesn't change at all until it's completely out. Odd that your having such a time with that. You running the higher capacity revo tank? I want to say when the revo first came out it ran a smaller tank, then they came out with the one they have now, which is what I run.
With mine, I kept shelling two speed gears. I replaced everything with RRP steel in the trans. I also run 1/8 scale clutch/bell/flywheel on it with alloy shoes. Once your LRP breaks in fully, you may run into the same issues.
With mine, by the time I got a gallon or so into it, the clutch would slip with an 1/8th clutch setup running composite shoes. Then my day was done. I threw in a set of alloy shoes and then I realized how much power I had been loosing to the clutch! Now I get 2nd gear wheelies...
I also replaced the slipper clutch pads with an entire brake disk from either an old savage or old t-maxx that I had laying around. My slipper shoes crumbled on me. Using the brake disk vs 3 little pads allows for a finer adjustment with the extra torque of the BB in there.
I also haven't had any mid-tank lean issues on the revo. Runs stable full to empty. Usually runs out before I catch it because the engine pitch doesn't change at all until it's completely out. Odd that your having such a time with that. You running the higher capacity revo tank? I want to say when the revo first came out it ran a smaller tank, then they came out with the one they have now, which is what I run.
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REVO-5309
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #32
yeh i have the 150cc tank, and i notice a decent fluctuation in temps between full tank and 1/4 tank.
i will defo have to upgrade to the 1/8 clutch and the higher surface area slipper. and by then i will prob need a new gear box. i have tho replaced a couple of the gears in the gear box as they have been thrashed lol. may go metal gears and drive shafts after that.
i have noticed tho that it slips a hell of a lot through the clutch bell so i defo need to upgrade that. do i need to move the trans forward to put in a 1/8 cb?
i will defo have to upgrade to the 1/8 clutch and the higher surface area slipper. and by then i will prob need a new gear box. i have tho replaced a couple of the gears in the gear box as they have been thrashed lol. may go metal gears and drive shafts after that.
i have noticed tho that it slips a hell of a lot through the clutch bell so i defo need to upgrade that. do i need to move the trans forward to put in a 1/8 cb?
Yeah, I moved the trans forward about 1/4" to fit the 1/8 clutch setup on it.
I run stock axles. I just keep a spare set. Really though, if you keep an eye on throttle control when landing off of jumps, they last quite some time before slop is noticeable in the knuckles. I've only replaced a set of centers once in quite a few gallons.
I run stock axles. I just keep a spare set. Really though, if you keep an eye on throttle control when landing off of jumps, they last quite some time before slop is noticeable in the knuckles. I've only replaced a set of centers once in quite a few gallons.
I just used what I had laying around. OFNA hardened bell, HPI savage 3 shoe flywheel, I think I'm using some associated alloy shoes now. The flywheel came with composite, but as mentioned, those didn't hold up to the taller gearing and the shoes I ended up with were the only set my LHS had at the time. Not big into buggies or 1/8 scale there, so they didn't have much on hand.
When I moved the trans, I cut the chassis to let it slide forward about 1/4" (near the brakes and the bolt holes), then once I had the mesh setup how I wanted it, I drilled two new holes through the chassis and trans flange, then put 3mm nut/bolt in it to keep it from sliding around. Even with the 4 bolts pinching it in place, I like the added assurance of keying it to new holes that don't have slop.
When I moved the trans, I cut the chassis to let it slide forward about 1/4" (near the brakes and the bolt holes), then once I had the mesh setup how I wanted it, I drilled two new holes through the chassis and trans flange, then put 3mm nut/bolt in it to keep it from sliding around. Even with the 4 bolts pinching it in place, I like the added assurance of keying it to new holes that don't have slop.
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