Need to replace my ESC wires

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Guy48065

RCTalk Rookie
Messages
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Location
Macomb Co, Mi
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
The 12ga wires on my Traxxas XL5 ESC are ratty & need replacing. I don't know if this damage is age, weathering, or rodents.
I opened the unit and was surprised to find the entire bottom potted in epoxy--including the wires.

Is my only option to butt the new wires into the clipped-short old wires & solder?
 

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The 12ga wires on my Traxxas XL5 ESC are ratty & need replacing. I don't know if this damage is age, weathering, or rodents.
I opened the unit and was surprised to find the entire bottom potted in epoxy--including the wires.

Is my only option to butt the new wires into the clipped-short old wires & solder?
Yeah. You can't remove that epoxy without destroying the ESC.
 
Yeah I would just buy a new ESC for $60. Sounds to me like a good opportunity for an upgrade. 😬
 
Snip and splice or replace, depends on your comfort level with soldering, and if you have time to do it, otherwise a bit of shopping may be in order.
 
Wow... what happened there?
Anyway, you'll have to solder the new wires to what's left of the old ones, just make sure you don't overheat the stuff inside the ESC.

A Hobbywing 1060 would work too...
 
Would be nice if manufacturers of all the ESC's would use plugs for the input like they do usually for the outputs, or posts to solder to. Over time, copper work hardens, so the wires will eventually breakdown inside the insulation if the insulation itself doesn't crap out. Usually happens near the soldered end where the battery connectors are, but still, would be nice to be able to replace them as needed. Would make it easier to attach cap packs and bec's as well.

Anyway, try contacting traxxas. They may give you a discount on a new one... or an upgraded one.
 
The insulation around the damage is still soft so I assume a mouse did that. This car was given to me by a BIL so I'm just guessing.

I'm way too cheap to shitcan this ESC without trying to repair it. I cut the wires off at about 1" and soldered in new leads. I'm using this excuse to replace all connectors with Dean's so I haven't tested my repair yet.

I've reentered the hobby after dropping out for 30 years. This XL5 IS an upgrade over the Tekin & Futaba stuff that was available in '88.
Full reverse...waterproof...one button setup...wow!
 
All for naught. The heat from soldering onto the extremely short wires must have flowed the solder on the pcb as it's now shorted.
 
All for naught. The heat from soldering onto the extremely short wires must have flowed the solder on the pcb as it's now shorted.
That sucks, but it was worth a try! I recommend replacing it with a HobbyWing 1080 or 1060.
 
How does the performance of the 1060 compare to the XL5?
 
How does the performance of the 1060 compare to the XL5?
The 1060 can run up to 3s LiPos with a higher turn motor in a crawler. It has more programmability compared to the XL-5. I can't find the complete specs for the XL-5. I would personally go with the 1060.
 
^ think you got them mixed up, the 1060 is the simpler ESC with no programming options except two jumpers (maybe that IS more than the XL-5?), and I wouldn't recommend it for 3s go-fast use.

It would be good to know which RC we're talking about.

The 1080 is more powerful and very programmable, and although it's called a crawler esc, it'll do great in anything else. It's the best reasonably priced brushed ESC, and I will fight anyone who says it isn't! 🤪
 
^ think you got them mixed up, the 1060 is the simpler ESC with no programming options except two jumpers (maybe that IS more than the XL-5?), and I wouldn't recommend it for 3s go-fast use.

It would be good to know which RC we're talking about.

The 1080 is more powerful and very programmable, and although it's called a crawler esc, it'll do great in anything else. It's the best reasonably priced brushed ESC, and I will fight anyone who says it isn't! 🤪
Sorry for the confusion! The 1080 is definitely worth the extra money. The 1080 even has an adjustable BEC output voltage!
 
The 1060 looks comparable to the XL5 for basic bashing in a stock Rustler.
I ordered a package deal with a Globact 12T motor to mess with for an extra $10.

I really like the programming of the XL5 that steps thru the F/R/Br modes, throttle cal, low voltage cutoff...plus on/off function all from the same button. And it has mounting screw tabs. I'm not a fan of adhesive-mounting an ESC.

BUT for $25 I'll give the 1060 a try.
 
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