i have a savage i am tryin to set the the 2 speed, how many sec before it should hit second gear??? 1 other problem i have my savage wont roll backwards wat is goin on???
:OMG:
He is correct, and when you take apart the tranny, if you do and don't plan on sending it to HPI, then I would also grease the one-way bearing while you're in there. You must use loctite on the set screw to prevent it from backing out.
Obviously it's better to do it yourself, but some less experienced people might be tempted to send it to HPI. On the other hand, if you're going to be playing with nitro R/C then it's alot better to just dive in and learn what you are doing.
P.S> Green loctite??? I thought they only made it blue and red, sorry if you're color blind, not to be smart, I'm just trying to be considerate, my friend is color blind.
Guys, try a little blue loctite on the set screw. Read the instructions...I believe that is one of the first steps mentioned in them.
Your truck should roll backwards. If it doesn't, then something is binding the drive train when it reverses (regardless of whether or not you have the reverse module). These things work much like a bicycle...the tranny should free-wheel in reverse.
Its not rolling backwards because wither the idle is to high and its turning the gears to fast and its already trying to go foward, or hpi didnt allow it to roll backwards. And the 2nd gear should hit at the peak of the rpm shifting range. If you listen to a regular cars engine shift, youll know what we mean
When you go to AutoZone or any other Auto parts store just ask them for the GREEN lok tite and they will hook you up with the right one. The NEW green one will penetrate through the threaded area VERY well.
www.hpi.com has some GREAT articles on what to lok tite. The instructions are good enough to get you to the tranny as well.
If need be, send it to HPI, but, between the book, the website and even your LHS, you should be able to pull it off easily.
Hmmm, well then....I guess when I get back home (on vacation right now), I'll have to check out HPI's site and do some disassembling and investigating, thanks guys!
You can actually do this process without having to take the tranny apart. However, I strongly recommend that you have the GREEN loktite as well as a very very very thin tip extender. Worked great for me. Ill post pics.
As mention earlier I purchased a Savage .21 after already having a T-Maxx with .21 conversin kit. I broke in the savage per manual and instinct, one tough puppy to start, lots of bleeding knuckles and fingers from rope burns. Once running i notice that if i let it set on a block as per the manual and run at idle or a little more the truck would gradually speed up until the point I though it was running to many rpm during break in. I keep stopping and restarting the engine to prevent to many rpm runs. Once that was complete I went to driving the truck in oval patterns blipping the throttle on and off for 3 more tanks fulls, and it took quite a while per tank to run out. After that the book acts as if you are ready to tune for power so I turned about a 1/2 in on the high and low, took off and could not get it to shift for anything, in fact once I let the motor rev so high I really got scared. After trying to adjust the motor it still would not shift so went to adjusting the 2 speed shift point, and still no luck. I backed it out probably 1 or 2 turns and the truck would rev to the point it would almost scream then it shifted finally. I thought that i actually damaged the engine at one point it got so many rpm before it shifted. I stopped the truck and went to adjust some more and noticed that I could not get the adjustment screw to come in the window it seemed locked up. Well indeed it was, you see the set screw had backed itself out and locked up the tranny so hard that I could not do anything but remove it from the tranny and open it up to fix. I thought this sucks, truck not even 2 weeks old and already tearing down, (per Hpi's website). After locking down the set screw with loctite threadlocker I adjusted the shift point screw back out about another full turn, by this time I was probably 3 turns out from what hpi had it set at. Now it screams real quick for a sec then shifts, Motor sounds funny though. I think I might have caused some damage due to it not shifting in the beginning. Calling Hpi tomorrow. I WOULD RECOMMEND ANYONE OWNING A SAVAGE TO CHECK TRANNY SET SCREW BEFORE RUNNING, IT COULD COST YOU BIG TIME!! I ran my 5th tank through it today and now I am ready for performance tune. My .21 Hyper T-maxx seems a lot faster than the Savage, I hope the Savage suprises me when it gets broke in. The hole reason I bought this truck is because of the factory .21 and its cool looks. i hope it performs. Has anyone else ran an engine a lot of rpm and it sounded funny afterwards? I think I heated some parts up!! As always have fun in what ever you do.
The Hyper is probably a much better engine than the .21BB. The poor Savage is going to get alot of bad rep. for the set screw and the weak engine. That's too bad because it really is a truck that deserves good ratings. What noise is the engine making that you don't like? That plastic piece of pipe that they used on the Savage doesn't do it any justice either, it itself is noisy and weak. A new tuned Aluminum pipe helps the preformance of the .21BB engine quite alot! Go to the Europe HPI website and check out the Savage forum in the truck forum. There are suggestions for what pipe to use. The site is www.hpiracing.com. If you replace the pipe, remove the plastic restrictor inside the rubber header coupler, I'm not sure why they put that in there, but I think it has something to do with that crappy pipe they used. No pipe, header, coupler set that I've ever had has used a restrictor inside of it! What's up with that thing! I can't see how you could have over revved the engine with the crappy set up they used. Anything is possible though, let me know.