Mugen Shoes, Which Ones?

[BigRed]

RB S7II is the motor, the white or black shoes. Need something thats going to give some longevity. Thanks!


ps i'm using the kyosho 1.10 springs

 

[Plaidfish]

drop to 1.0 and use aluminum if you are good about deburring them....if you want minimal maintenance keep the 1.1 and get carbon for a decent engagement w/ fair wear....teflon for longevity but they have more slip on engagement...

 

[BigRed]

I ran the 1.0 with aluminium shoes, only 2 race days. Whos shoes would reccomend?

 

[wannarunem]

i use these

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAP0&P=7

 

[kx250ryder]

i use these

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAP0&P=7

Holy crap!!! Mugen makes something cheaper than OFNA???!!!

 

[kx250ryder]

Hey plaid, since I am now effectively running your old setup (9.5 pro, os rg) what clutch setup would you reccomend for that? I currently have ofna blue aluminum shoes and some black springs that came with them. Should I try to track down mugen 1.0 springs for this type of shoe too?

 

[Plaidfish]

run a 15t CB w/ good bearings, 1.0 springs (I'm not particular on brands w/ springs) adn the Xray aluminum shoes work really well.....when you use aluminum you MUST take the CB off and file the edges of the clutch shoes down after every 1/4 to 1/2 gallon....if you don't the shoe mushrooms and then it wears out real quick.....w/ the RG I use a 15t CB cause it winds out w/ a 14 and really winds out w/ 13s......I can't get down the straight at my track w/ anything less than 15 w/o it screaming halfway....and it is a ridiculously short run too 60 - 70ft at most

 

[CorradoPsi]

be carefull on swaping around clutch components.

always use the same brand shoes, springs, flywheel, clutchnut. some brands, Kyosho in particular, use different size diameter pins and slightly different clutchbell ID's. these differences can cause problems with spring breakage, and hanging clutches if the wrong components are mixed. some brands you can mix certain items with no problem, but thats a list i dont care to type up right now.

you can never use a bell for carbon or any organic shoes thats run aluminum in the past, it will eat the carbons for breakfast.

never remove the black buildup from the face of your aluminum shoes or the inside of the bell, its supposed to be there and helps extend shoe wear.

always debur the edges of your aluminum shoes when they start to mushroom, a simple trim with an x-acto knife usually does the trick.

never use 1.1 springs, they are so stiff that they never allow a clutch to fully engage and this wears out the shoes early, overheats the bell, and wears out bearings fast.

when going from a organic shoe to an aluminum shoe, clean out the residue in the bell with sandpaper.

if you need a later engagement than a 1.0 spring provides lighten your shoes by either cutting 1-2mm of material off of the tips of every shoe, or drilling 1-2 1mm holes in each shoe.

never allow your shoes to wear to the point where the spring touches the bell, this will gouge it and you will have a junk bell.

aluminum shoes = hard engagement, medium wear, higher maintainance
carbon (black) shoes = average engagement, medium wear, low maintainance
rulon (red) shoes = hard engagement, high wear, low maintainance
teflon (white) shoes = light engagement, low wear, low maintainance


thats about all i can think of for now.

 

[kx250ryder]

Ummmm. . . damn. I think that about says it all. Oh, wait, one thing. How do you know when a clutch bell is worn out, if its not gouged? ¡Gracias!

 

[Plaidfish]

I've never worn out the inside of a CB before the teeth got trashed.....

 

[CorradoPsi]

if its not gouged, its not worn out. if you start to go though clutch bearings for no apparent reason, then its prolly shot because the bores where the bearings ride are worn out.

 

[slothy]

i ran mugen alums with mugen 1.1's on my mbx5 w/ ws7II, took care of the weak low end the ws7 had

 

[CorradoPsi]

have you tried those shoes with 2 holes drilled in them and 1.0 springs, you may see the engine drop in temp if you do and clutch bearings last longer because of reduced slippage at high rpm.

 

[slothy]

me ? I'm running a p5 with carbon and 1.0 now in my s3


but seems logical on cooling

 

[BigRed]

be carefull on swaping around clutch components.

always use the same brand shoes, springs, flywheel, clutchnut. some brands, Kyosho in particular, use different size diameter pins and slightly different clutchbell ID's. these differences can cause problems with spring breakage, and hanging clutches if the wrong components are mixed. some brands you can mix certain items with no problem, but thats a list i dont care to type up right now.

you can never use a bell for carbon or any organic shoes thats run aluminum in the past, it will eat the carbons for breakfast.

never remove the black buildup from the face of your aluminum shoes or the inside of the bell, its supposed to be there and helps extend shoe wear.

always debur the edges of your aluminum shoes when they start to mushroom, a simple trim with an x-acto knife usually does the trick.

never use 1.1 springs, they are so stiff that they never allow a clutch to fully engage and this wears out the shoes early, overheats the bell, and wears out bearings fast.

when going from a organic shoe to an aluminum shoe, clean out the residue in the bell with sandpaper.

if you need a later engagement than a 1.0 spring provides lighten your shoes by either cutting 1-2mm of material off of the tips of every shoe, or drilling 1-2 1mm holes in each shoe.

never allow your shoes to wear to the point where the spring touches the bell, this will gouge it and you will have a junk bell.

aluminum shoes = hard engagement, medium wear, higher maintainance
carbon (black) shoes = average engagement, medium wear, low maintainance
rulon (red) shoes = hard engagement, high wear, low maintainance
teflon (white) shoes = light engagement, low wear, low maintainance


thats about all i can think of for now.

Thanks for the info! I ran carbon shoes this last weekend with the 1.1's, I'll have to pull the clutch bell to see how they wore.