Merv 4s ESC Problem Solved

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StrechM

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This should solve the problem and create many more.

After about 3 hours of fidling around with where to put the the esc, wires, the the rx, and soldering, here's what I came up with.
The body fits perfectly with lots of clearance for the fan the move air. The esc's a, b, c wires need shortened after I make sure there's not a polarity issue ( Traxxas says that there is and Castle says there isn't ). I'd like to use the stock motor a little longer so I need some opinions on this.
I'm completely open to suggestions.

Mamba Max Pro. Handles 2-6s, near infinite tuneability.

DSC02798.jpg


DSC02796-1.jpg
 
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That should fix the power problem. Now you'll need to buy lots of driveline parts because you'll be breaking them.
 
I still don't see the point. All it's achieving is over stressing the drivetrain. And it's not waterproof anymore. Maybe I'm just gettin' old. Nice work though. It looks great.
 
Looks clean, good job. I dont see how your gonna keep it on the ground with 4s but good luck lol.
 
Thanks for the feedback. My plans are to use 2s but have the option to use 3-4s without thermaling or cooking the esc.

The best part is the mods are easily undone. The esc is held down with about 6 or 7 layers of 3M grey double sided tape. It had to be raised up enough to clear the rx box footprint. 1 layer under the rx. Neither would budge this morning.

I'm not crazy about rx antenna. I wrapped about 6" of the antenna coax inside the rx box but need to come up with a mount and short tube to incase it.

The next plan is the center diff, cvd's, steel center, rpm arms in the rear (have fronts on now), al knuckles, slipstream body, pl beadlocks and maybe the gtr shocks (or just the shock bodies). I picked up a set of black springs for the rear yesterday. I'm still researching rockers and bearings.. and I'll need a 2nd mortgage 0:

This obviously isn't a new idea. Some of the racers have been using this setup for about a year or so. It makes most motor options available, brushed, blushless and brushless sensored if I read it correctly (bl sensored). Esc tuneability was the real descission maker.

No doubt 3-4s is a parts breaker.

You can't be older thasn I am Metalhead and I haven't forgot your video request.

Thanks again. Suggestions anyone?
 
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Get the gtr shocks. If they're like the Revo 3.3, the shafts are a bit stouter than the stockers.
 
Get the gtr shocks. If they're like the Revo 3.3, the shafts are a bit stouter than the stockers.
Thanks buddy! I'll take a look at them. It has the black 2.22 springs on the rear now but I've upped the shock oil rate slightly too from stock to 40 front/60 rear which helped but everyone says the plastic caps will pop off next.

About 10 minutes ago I got to test it.
My first impression is the same programability as all of the Castle esc's which makes it easy. Plugged the batteries in, 2s in parallel and it beeps twice loudly when you flip the switch to tell you 2s. In the series conection it beeps 4 times so there's no mistake.
I haven't put it through the paces yet but it's overall smoother acceleration and braking in 2s and 4s configurations when compared to the stock esc.
2 runs up and own the block in 2s and the same runs in 4s. The esc never reached temps high enough to turn on the fan.
 
Bump. . .

Been busy but finally got around to ordering most of the rest of my wish list.


These upgrades are completed:

Mamba Max Pro ESC
TRX Toe Links
TRX Push Rods
Steel hollow balls
Spektrum SR3100
RPM Arms Front
Black Springs R/F Tan


I ordered these last night:

Traxxas Center Diff
HR Heatsink Motor Mount
HR Aluminum Axel Carriers
Integy Steel Center Drives
RPM Arms Rear
Proline Dirt Hawgs on Titus BeadLocks
Traxxas Steel CVD’s
Proline Slipstream body
Traxxas GTR Shocks
2 x Hyperion G3 VX 1600mAh 3s lipos 35/65c (good batteries but mixed reviews as to how tight they’ll fit)

Next: Castle/Neu motor, 1110 or 1112. Need to do some more research but a lower KV than stock.

The jury is still out on which bearings and maybe aluminum or delrin rockers. I wish someone would produce a CF chassis.

Someone chime in please. What did I miss or have I scewed up something?
 
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sooooo. . .lemme get this straight you are gonna run a merv on 6S. . .22.2volts, that thing is gonna do some serious parts slingin, and standing quadruple backflips . . .GET SOME VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Only 4s Rob. 6 would destroy it. I ordered a pair of TP Pro Power 2s 45c lipos for it. This weekend I'm wiring up an Eagle Tree V3 E-Logger to see how volts/amps/watts this this setup will draw. I also ordered the optical rpm sensor too.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80895
 
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I doubt those hyperion lipo's will fit. I would bet they are a good 1/3" too long.
 
I doubt those hyperion lipo's will fit. I would bet they are a good 1/3" too long.

This is the Hyperion 3s 1600mah VX 35c. They fit but its a tight squeeze. With the battery doors on they do not bow as much and the doors do close. The blue plastic caps Hyperion puts on the ends of their lipos is what makes them fit so tight. I have a pair on their 3rd charge. I'll be disassembling the set along with the TP 45c to make a better fit configuration. I just have to stop by the lhs to pick up some large shrink wrap and some lexan for the ends. The TP specs show the lipo 1/2mm too long so that shouldn't be to difficult to overcome.

I've maked up the photo so you can see where the issue is.
DSC03042.jpg


With the new data logger I should be able to see if the manufacture's spec are the same as their claim. If I do buy another set of Hyperion lipos I will buy the EX version that should have a lower IR.
 
thanks for the pic. I have the hyperion 3S G3 lipo's on my scx and when i had my mini slash, i could have sworn they were too long. Glad they work for you! the truck looks great.
 
The 3G's are the highest v and lowest ir 3s I have been able to push into the battery boxes (and I mean push). The TP's should should better. My TP's on order are 2s 2250mah Pro power 45/90c. The Pro Power series are supposed to have the lowest internal resistance in their lineup. I will have the ir tested at about 10 charges.

A cf chassis would make the merv more configurable if anyone would like to step up to the plate with one.
 
I'm looking forward to seeing how the optical sensor works out. Do you also have the brushless rpm sensor? I use the brushless rpm sensor and curious as to which is more accurate. My readings with the brushless sensor usually look logical based upon voltage reading and motor KV.

Yes if you are referring to the 2 wire sensor. It looks a lot easier to use.
 
I found someone with design knowledge and equipment to cut a cf chassis. He took my old chassis and said he'd let me know. I'll let you guys know if it materializes.
 
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