Ok Sur3Fir3 and I have been IMing back and forth about gearing setups and what-not so I went out today to find out the answer if the Tekin 1550kv could run 63/34 without over heating. Well heres what I found out including a couple of other things 
Ok I ran a whole pack through on 63/34 with the battery tray up front. Used a gensacearespammers 5300 4S 30C pack and a 2S Pack in series to see if the 30C would push the amps or not. In the end the hotest I saw the motor get was 121F and that was only after running it really hard for several minutes. I mean just WOT pass after WOT pass for 3 or 4 minutes straight.....regular bashing the temps stayed between 100F and 115F for the most part. Now bear in mind that it was only 62F out today. In the middle of the summer it will run hotter but I think it will still be ok. I could still make it wheelie but I really had to make it wheelie....under normal acceleration it didnt want to stand up on its own like it did before when the batteries were in the back with the motor.
The 30C lipos were 118F after the run was completed which is a little bit warmer than I like to see my lipos but I'm fairly certain that 118 isnt enough to damage a lipo. I believe 30Cs would be fine in this set up but I would feel more comfortable with 40C or higher. One thing I discovered is that when you run lipos in series they not only need to be the same mAh and C rating but also the same cell count. I've run a 4S/2S series twice now and both times the 4S pack was over discharged. This time it went all the way down to 2.3V/C before dying. The LVC never did kick in I guess because the 2S pack was still at almost 3.4V/C). The first time I had the same thing happen to me it was using a 4S lipo that had the positive lead break off and I had soldered it back on. At the time I thought the 4S pack puffed because i didnt repair it properly but now I see that wasn't the case. So if anyone else wasn't already aware of this little issue with running packs in series I thought Id better throw it out there.
Btw, if you upgrade your turnbuckles to Lunsford titanium ones and your steering knuckles to aluminum then aparently you start braking shock towers....lol First shock tower I've broken on mine....guess I need aluminum ones.
Ok I ran a whole pack through on 63/34 with the battery tray up front. Used a gensacearespammers 5300 4S 30C pack and a 2S Pack in series to see if the 30C would push the amps or not. In the end the hotest I saw the motor get was 121F and that was only after running it really hard for several minutes. I mean just WOT pass after WOT pass for 3 or 4 minutes straight.....regular bashing the temps stayed between 100F and 115F for the most part. Now bear in mind that it was only 62F out today. In the middle of the summer it will run hotter but I think it will still be ok. I could still make it wheelie but I really had to make it wheelie....under normal acceleration it didnt want to stand up on its own like it did before when the batteries were in the back with the motor.
The 30C lipos were 118F after the run was completed which is a little bit warmer than I like to see my lipos but I'm fairly certain that 118 isnt enough to damage a lipo. I believe 30Cs would be fine in this set up but I would feel more comfortable with 40C or higher. One thing I discovered is that when you run lipos in series they not only need to be the same mAh and C rating but also the same cell count. I've run a 4S/2S series twice now and both times the 4S pack was over discharged. This time it went all the way down to 2.3V/C before dying. The LVC never did kick in I guess because the 2S pack was still at almost 3.4V/C). The first time I had the same thing happen to me it was using a 4S lipo that had the positive lead break off and I had soldered it back on. At the time I thought the 4S pack puffed because i didnt repair it properly but now I see that wasn't the case. So if anyone else wasn't already aware of this little issue with running packs in series I thought Id better throw it out there.
Btw, if you upgrade your turnbuckles to Lunsford titanium ones and your steering knuckles to aluminum then aparently you start braking shock towers....lol First shock tower I've broken on mine....guess I need aluminum ones.
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