LC Racing? Good brand?

[bill_delong]

LC Racing is not race grade and lack modern geometry + tuning options. If you want to race competitively then stick with a name brand, if you want to bash around and break parts, then have fun with LC Racing for what it is.

quoting for emphasis for those who think that LC Racing is competitive just because they have the word "Racing" in the brand name, it's a misnomer.

I used to race all kinds of basher brands when I first got into club racing where I was suckered into low entry costs just to get something on the track, and in rare occasions I would actually win against sportsman level drivers which gave me validation, however what I learned over time was that maintenance costs, part support and durability would come back and bite me.

I'm not trying to poo on anyone's parade, just trying to help prevent others from making the same mistakes I made when I first got into club racing as a sportsman level driver

For anyone looking to get into club racing on a tight budget, I would recommend PR Racing, they have "Sport" editions with all the expensive upgrades removed to get you into racing on a tight budget and then you can make upgrades as part fail over time to ease the sting and still have something competitive:
https://shop.prracingusa.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=59

Here's my review of the 401R to get an idea of what to expect from PR Racing:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3268789-REVIEW-PR-Racing-SB401-TypeR

*** Side note... the 1/10 program in my area died off and I'm thinking about selling my 401R loaded with spares and upgrades as Rx ready with a 13.5T motor, if anyone is interested PM me and I'll go through everything and come up with a price.

 

[J’sCrawler]

quoting for emphasis for those who think that LC Racing is competitive just because they have the word "Racing" in the brand name, it's a misnomer.

I used to race all kinds of basher brands when I first got into club racing where I was suckered into low entry costs just to get something on the track, and in rare occasions I would actually win against sportsman level drivers which gave me validation, however what I learned over time was that maintenance costs, part support and durability would come back and bite me.

I'm not trying to poo on anyone's parade, just trying to help prevent others from making the same mistakes I made when I first got into club racing as a sportsman level driver

For anyone looking to get into club racing on a tight budget, I would recommend PR Racing, they have "Sport" editions with all the expensive upgrades removed to get you into racing on a tight budget and then you can make upgrades as part fail over time to ease the sting and still have something competitive:
https://shop.prracingusa.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=59

Here's my review of the 401R to get an idea of what to expect from PR Racing:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3268789-REVIEW-PR-Racing-SB401-TypeR

*** Side note... the 1/10 program in my area died off and I'm thinking about selling my 401R loaded with spares and upgrades as Rx ready with a 13.5T motor, if anyone is interested PM me and I'll go through everything and come up with a price.

I never think anything is race quality with “racing” in the name, but I do think it’s a good car. I can assure you it is built pretty well, but for tuning eh yeah I don’t race so theres that. I'm pretty sure it doesn’t have tuning “pills“ to stuff into the hinge pin blocks so I guess sway bars, toe, and camber aren’t enough. Parts are cheap. All in all @bill_delong its a valid point.

 

[CrunchyM5k]

I had the LC Racing 1/14 buggy and the 1/14 short course truck since 2016, they are great cars for the money if you get the brushless versions. When the buggy first came out the front knuckles were weak but they quickly fixed that problem. Hobbywing programing cards work on the stock brushless ESC, they have swaybars and different rate spring available if you want to tune it up for track us. These are the cars I usually let noobs drive and all I've broken is the wing and front shock tower on the buggy and bodies on the short course truck, I did trash bearings driving on sandy river banks but that hard on anything. 1/10 touring car tires are a good fit for the 1/14 stuff too, some of those can be really cheap to buy.

 

[tntpoof]

LC racing i a very good brand. Dont know exactly how long they have been around .but there 1/14 stuff will hold up great.Buy

 

[WutUp Clegg]

quoting for emphasis for those who think that LC Racing is competitive just because they have the word "Racing" in the brand name, it's a misnomer.

I used to race all kinds of basher brands when I first got into club racing where I was suckered into low entry costs just to get something on the track, and in rare occasions I would actually win against sportsman level drivers which gave me validation, however what I learned over time was that maintenance costs, part support and durability would come back and bite me.

I'm not trying to poo on anyone's parade, just trying to help prevent others from making the same mistakes I made when I first got into club racing as a sportsman level driver

For anyone looking to get into club racing on a tight budget, I would recommend PR Racing, they have "Sport" editions with all the expensive upgrades removed to get you into racing on a tight budget and then you can make upgrades as part fail over time to ease the sting and still have something competitive:
https://shop.prracingusa.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=59

Here's my review of the 401R to get an idea of what to expect from PR Racing:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3268789-REVIEW-PR-Racing-SB401-TypeR

*** Side note... the 1/10 program in my area died off and I'm thinking about selling my 401R loaded with spares and upgrades as Rx ready with a 13.5T motor, if anyone is interested PM me and I'll go through everything and come up with a price.

If I was to race it, it would be for the pure purpose of being different out there. I don't like to race what everyone else on the track has. That is why I race Kyosho. However, the racing scene has completely died out here. I'm not completely sure about on road, but off road is gone. There is one off road track within 100 miles from me.

 

[bill_delong]

If I was to race it, it would be for the pure purpose of being different out there. I don't like to race what everyone else on the track has. That is why I race Kyosho. However, the racing scene has completely died out here. I'm not completely sure about on road, but off road is gone. There is one off road track within 100 miles from me.

The OP is a 1/10 off-road club racer, so let's try to keep this in mind so we don't hijack his thread

 

[WutUp Clegg]

The OP is a 1/10 off-road club racer, so let's try to keep this in mind so we don't hijack his thread

I wasn't trying to hijack it. just giving another example of going with JC vs other brands. That's why I didn't elaborate on the brand you presented.

 

[J’sCrawler]

I went today to drive the lc12b1 and shoot a video for @DavidB1126, but when I turned on the GoPro it was dead. It was on the entire time it was charging. So dumb. So instead I just ran the nitro for awhile. Tomorrow is another day.

 

[J’sCrawler]

So I went out and did some parking lot pimpin in the LC12B1 and ya know what, the go pro didn’t record. I got a video of a little show n tell and what batteries I use but…… I’ll try to get something tomorrow after work.
On a positive note, I did get video of the Xtm burning nitro!
I’m going to edit some film and I will post it up. Sorry @DavidB1126

 

[DavidB1126]

it all good

 

[J’sCrawler]

Tomorrow after work we will get one. It might just be getting dark so it might look cool with the lights on the car.

 

[DavidB1126]

Tomorrow after work we will get one. It might just be getting dark so it might look cool with the lights on the car.

what I did for halloween earlier is I duct tape and ziptied flash lights onto the slash. They were pretty bright.

 

[J’sCrawler]

I need a new go pro, mine is very inconsistent, which is inconvenient. Watching my video where I show batteries and talk about the LC12B1, the audio sucks!
Donations welcome!

 

[DavidB1126]

I'm using my phone, and using a amazon headstrap on my head. Thats even worse. If you go to my youtube and see my POV videos, half of the video is pointed up to the ceiling. Its crazy. Can't get the thing to get the car in the view of the camera.
So that's why I let my dad record races from the ground. Or I use my amazon phone selfie stick stand thing. Which I broke, but is still usable

 

[J’sCrawler]

I have a chest strap for the go pro but then all you would see is my transmitter operation.

 

[J’sCrawler]

here you go @DavidB1126

 

[J’sCrawler]

its a rock throwin machine
ill get one on 3S too