How to counter the speed reduction after installing portals to a Ryft?

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haha nothing wrong with that. i actually grew up with a house filled with reptiles and amphibians. My mom was big into collecting and keeping them and we were all members of the local herpetology society.
 
It's just some awesome childhood memories that stuck with me.
I hope you and your BF get your rig the way you want it.
Anymore questions, feel free to ask.
Lots of smart guys here that are more than willing to help
I'm not smart but I played one on tv... ;)
 
Take two of the motor wires and swap them. That will reverse your motor. That is as long as it's not sensored.

For the gearing, swap to a bigger pinion and/or smaller spur gear. Keep an eye on motor and ESC temps any time you play with your gearing. You want to keep your electronics below 160°F or so. So grab you a cheap infrared temp gun if you don't have one.

And welcome to RCT!
Which wires do we switch?
 
Which wires do we switch?
I don't believe that has a sensored ESC/motor in it. Can you post a pic of the visible end of the motor? You said it is RTR though right? You bought it new? If it doesn't have a sensor wire, you can swap any two wires. Here is where the sensor wire would be if yours has this port. 99.9% sure yours doesn't.
Screenshot_20240322_194750.jpg
 
Yeah, just swap any of those motor wires. Should do the trick. Just give it a couple throttle blips to test it. Blue and orange looks easiest to swap.
 
The motor is stock I believe. The only vitavon on it currently is the axle housing and attached.

Now that my daughter has gone to her dad’s house. Here is one of her upcoming birthday presents we got her. So what’s y’all’s opinion or thoughts on this custom rig???
Oh and she’s also getting a scx24 white jeep Renegade.
Finally gave my daughter her birthday presents today!! She was absolutely thrilled with her new rc cars.
So to get her black and green one finished setting up we got this 2-1 motor & esc to swap with the older axial motor in it. Has anyone here used this motor before with a similar setup as this one? We will be using a 7.4v 2000mah 50c 2s battery.

IMG_1088.jpeg
 
I have an SE (the cheaper version) and I love it, this should be perfect. What are you putting it in?
 
Custom built rig we got in a bundle purchase. It was a project a guy bought from someone else but never finished.

IMG_1044.jpeg
 
The shocks are typically mounted here
View attachment 186117
We could give that a try. What is your opinion on the motor esc combo we bought for it? There isn’t very much room inside the chassis to fit both individually but my boyfriend believes he saw somewhere that this motor/esc might not be able to work with it having two servos because it doesn’t have enough power?
 
We could give that a try. What is your opinion on the motor esc combo we bought for it? There isn’t very much room inside the chassis to fit both individually but my boyfriend believes he saw somewhere that this motor/esc might not be able to work with it having two servos because it doesn’t have enough power?
Ok, I remember you are new, so I'll try to explain how this all works. If any of this confuses you, let me know.

An ESC has a built in battery eliminator circuit (BEC). This is basically a voltage regulator to deliver the correct voltage to your receiver (Rx) and servos. Say you had a 3s battery and no BEC. That would destroy the Rx and servos with too much voltage. So a BEC is there to fix that.

Servos also require a few amps when under load, so your BEC needs to supply enough amps. So with two servos, yeah, your BEC may struggle at times.
Screenshot_20240325_082054.jpg


To alleviate that, you can install an external BEC. A Castle 10a BEC should do nicely.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle-creations-10-amp-adjustable-bec-cse010-0004-00/p18210

That BEC is preset to output 5.1V, but can go up to 9v. If you have servos that can handle 7.4v or 8.4v, you would notice an improvement in servo speed and torque by simply setting the BEC to whatever your servos can handle. To change that you need the Castle Link.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle...usb-programmer-adapter-cse011-0119-00/p640839

You can of course just run your servos at the preset 5.1v, but I would personally want the BEC putting out as much power as my servos could take. What servos do you have in the truck? There should be a brand/model number on them.

To wire up the BEC, you will need to remove the positive wire from the ESC to the Rx. Here is the wiring diagram.
unnamed.jpg

And I know you don't have an external ESC like that diagrsm, but you still have s cable going to the Rx. That will be the cable you need to modify. You also need to solder the positive and negative wores for the BEC into your battery harness.

And just a heads up... You don't have to cut that wire from the ESC to the Rx. You can gently press down on this tab and pull the wire out of the connector. That way you can slways reinstall that pin into the connector later if needed. Just make sure to tape it up good so it doesn't short out on anything.
Screenshot_20240325_083514.jpg
 
Last edited:
Ok, I remember you are new, so I'll try to explain how this all works. If any of this confuses you, let me know.

An ESC has a built in battery eliminator circuit (BEC). This is basically a voltage regulator to deliver the correct voltage to your receiver (Rx) and servos. Say you had a 3s battery and no BEC. That would destroy the Rx and servos with too much voltage. So a BEC is there to fix that.

Servos also require a few amps when under load, so your BEC needs to supply enough amps. So with two servos, yeah, your BEC may struggle.
View attachment 186118

To alleviate that, you can install an external BEC. A Castle 10a BEC should do nicely.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle-creations-10-amp-adjustable-bec-cse010-0004-00/p18210

That BEC is preset to output 5.1V, but can go up to 9v. If you have servos that can handle 7.4v or 8.4v, you would notice an improvement in servo speed and torque by simply setting the BEC to whatever your servos can handle. To change that you need the Castle Link.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle...usb-programmer-adapter-cse011-0119-00/p640839

You can of course just run your servos at the preset 5.1v, but I would personally want the BEC putting out as much power as my servos could take. What servos do you have in the truck? There should be a brand/model number on them.

To wire up the BEC, you will need to remove the positive wire from the ESC to the Rx. Here is the wiring diagram.
View attachment 186119
And I know you don't have an external ESC like that diagrsm, but you still have s cable going to the Rx. That will be the cable you need to modify. You also need to solder the positive and negative wores for the BEC into your battery harness.

And just a heads up... You don't have to cut that wire from the ESC to the Rx. You can gently press down on this tab and pull the wire out of the connector. That way you can slways reinstall that pin into the connector later if needed. Just make sure to tape it up good so it doesn't short out on anything.
View attachment 186120
Well definitely look into that. Would there be a better motor with an Esc inside of it to use than this one? We liked it because it the space inside the chassis made it a bit of a challenge to get everything to fit inside of it.
 
Well definitely look into that. Would there be a better motor with an Esc inside of it to use than this one? We liked it because it the space inside the chassis made it a bit of a challenge to get everything to fit inside of it.
Not that I know of. Chances are, any other combo motor/ESC will likely need an external BEC as well.
 
I just received an email from hot racing about identifying the chassis on the black and green crawler. They said it was designed for the axial ax10 scorpion XC-1!
 
That was the first mass produced purpose built RC crawler... in 2007! :D
 
That was the first mass produced purpose built RC crawler... in 2007! :D
yea thats what I'm seeing when i looked it up. pretty neat find but i have a feeling if i come across any parts for it online we should probably snatch them up before they are gone since they stopped making that model. it looks mostly original, aside from the chassis. not sure if they had any faulty parts, which I'm sure there were since they were a new concept.
 

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