hay and help me with tmaxx

[nedlynitro]

Well, how did it run...good? Does it run fine but just not idle? If you got a little better after adjusting, maybe should try some more? To be honest with you, i know exactly how it can be a pain where when i got my first nitro second hand i was at a loss just as you are, after every problem in the book and many manuals i figured it out, so i do know it can be a pain, it is best to get a nitro going that is new and not full of the last persons personality, i would definitely try adjusting it different ways to try and get it going, and still no success clean the gaskets, on the bright side, if the engine does need a rebuild, it is not too expensive, and hobby shops do engine exchange as well giving you about 50$ discount, and that may be a good idea to just bring it into a shop and have a professional look at it, sometimes it takes one to see it in person to figure out the problem.

 

[michael]

i pulled the moter and sealed it and cleaned the carb again put it together and primed the moter and started it and it idle for about 4 sec and shut off and could not get it to idle again i took the hose lose and blew in it and got it to run but not idle no matter how much i ajusted the lsn it did not change the hsn did little it is like it is not getting enoug fuel unless you are throttle it at least 1/4 the way i am sick of tunning and pulling my hair out i think i might be better off to buy another moter but when it is running it fells like it has plenty of power any ideals

 

[nedlynitro]

Thats what your looking for, when its having issue, does it have fuel in the engine, or is it dry? If its not getting very much fuel, it is probably lean, and if it runs to a hot point, it may not like starting until it cools, but thats exactly what you want to look for, if it is dry of fuel on the piston when it has issues, it is too lean, and if it is flooding, too rich, and if it floods, drain it before trying to start it or you will not get results, and for it having issues and being lean, should let it cool before trying to start it, sounds like it is too lean, getting hot and like others say becoming under lubricated, it may very well had its day, and need a rebuild, where i have a blown engine right now, will not idle or have a happy spot with the needles, where no matter what is done, by the time it runs it will over heat...so this may be a possibility, like i said before, sometimes it takes one to look at it in person to tell you the problem, i can simply make suggestions and explain how to make adjustments, troubleshooting, but i will not be able to tell you the exact problem at this point, if you keep trying at the adjustments, and still no result, it may need a rebuild, if it is lacking compression, it could cause it to react this way, but trust your senses, if it seems like its not getting fuel, let it cool down and try again, for best results, i would suggest making the adjustments from rich to lean, where it will ruin being too lean, and will planely not run if too rich, richen it and see if the engine gets more fuel or floods, then work torwards the lean from there, wish i could do more, but not much more i can do without seeing it in person.....

 

[michael]

i pulled the moter and sealed it and cleaned the carb again put it together and primed the moter and started it and it idle for about 4 sec and shut off and could not get it to idle again i took the hose lose and blew in it and got it to run but not idle no matter how much i ajusted the lsn it did not change the hsn did little it is like it is not getting enoug fuel unless you are throttle it at least 1/4 the way i am sick of tunning and pulling my hair out i think i might be better off to buy another moter but when it is running it fells like it has plenty of power any ideals

checked with shaving cream and soapy water could not find any leaks did put oil in on top of piston and the pinch got alot harder little trick i learned as being a lift truck tec i think the moter is blown don't you?

 

[nedlynitro]

? Really not sure, definitely have an issue somewhere, if i were you, i would take it to a shop and have them look at it if you have givin up on tuning it...

 

[michael]

i am just going to buy a new moter do you think i should get the 2.5r or the 3.3 and will the 3.3 fit with no problems

 

[nedlynitro]

Not sure about the 3.3, i do know the 3.3 t-maxx has a longer chassis than the 2.5, that may be so the 3.3 will fit but I'm not sure, and i run a 2.5r right now, very good engine in my opinion for just bombing around and bashing i have a blast with it and it has lasted crazy right through the snow bankens lean rich this motor has been a tank for me but if you find some of my pictures thats the exact engine i run right now is the 2.5r with big blue cooling head! I think its better getting into nitro with a new engine so your starting fresh rather than used so the engine is all you!

I can't help you with the 3.3, but most say it is a great engine and goes fast, but for fitting it I'm really not sure, but i will say my 2.5r does great and has since i got it! I definitely think you would be better off starting with a new engine, break it in and have it be all you, i found most second hand engines i have gotten were hard to get going because with these engines one person will run it and adjust it differentially than other people and can be confusing, but that has just been my luck!

 

[nedlynitro]

Also, i would like to suggest, looking into the "sport" fuel, unless you have plans on racing, i just got a gallon of Blue Thunder Sport Fuel and has been working great! Very easy to tune the engine with, prevents engine damage due to over lean mixtures, works really great for me so far, for just bombing around the yard, and definitely was exceptionally easy to tune the engine with, i also found it was cheaper by almost 10 dollars, so that may be a help to you when it comes to getting your nitro going, might also be good for you when it comes to breaking in a new engine!

 

[michael]

thanks i think i will go get a 2.5r this week and i have watched a few videos on break in 1 is just let it idle and 2 is a run which do you sugest

 

[nedlynitro]

check out this manual: http://www.robotcombat.com/products/images/tra4910-manual.pdf :This manual is great for adjustments, signs of over lean and over rich settings, on page 33 it talks about the 5-tank break in procedure, page 28-29 is all about the carburetor and adjustments, i would suggest reading some of it if its any inspiration i read the entire manual before ever starting my first nitro, page 34-35 is also about adjusting the needles, if you read some of the manual, be sure to read the statements to the left and right under the light bulbs and attention symbols, also, would suggest maybe looking up some of the threads on the rcnitrotalk forums, a lot of people have asked about break in tips, and a lot of people have had great advise!

Just to let you know, everything i have given to you for advice, has not just been from experience, but from this exact manual, once you read you will see, it is good to know this manual for the engine at the least, where I'm sure you don't need instructions on how to turn the machine on or put batteries in it haha, but for the engine it is a great read for a large amount of understanding!

 

[michael]

i am going to go get a 2.5r this week but the hobbie shop is over a hour away what break in do you think i should use i seen 1 where you just idle and another is a run just what do you think and how long should a moter last

 

[nedlynitro]

Did you look at that manual?? Page-33 has the break in procedure, the one in the manual is the one i have always been told to use, a 5-tank break in, check out the graph on that page of the manual, it tells you how much throttle on witch tank to give it, and for how many seconds, i have always been told that is a good break in procedure, a lot of people would worry about the cold though, where i can see how they would, if it is really cold where you are, it could cause issues when breaking it in where the temp of the engine is a big part of the piston setting right, racingdad has a brand new 3.3 he is waiting for spring to break in, so some worry about the cold, check out that manual and the break in procedure, if i were breaking in my engine i would do it the way it explains in that manual, some other people go about it the same way using other minor things they think is better for break in that i have seen on youtube, but it really comes down to temp of the engine, and those 5-tanks, most likely will take about a couple hours to break in and can be a boring precess but is worth it when it comes to the engine having optimum performance and a long healthy life!

1. Drive the model with the body off.
2. Driving procedure: Gently pull the throttle trigger to 1/4
throttle over a 2-second count. Then gently apply the brake to
stop. Count the two seconds out while accelerating: one
thousand one, one thousand two, and then stop.Operate the
throttle trigger as smoothly as you can. Repeat this starting and
stopping procedure until the first tank of fuel is nearly empty.
3. Look for thick blue smoke exiting the exhaust outlet. If there is
no smoke, richen the high-speed needle 1/4 turn, by turning the
needle counterclockwise.
4. When the fuel tank is nearly empty, shut off the engine by
pinching the fuel line connected to the carburetor.
5. Let the engine cool for 15 minutes.
Note: If at any point the engine cuts out or stalls during gentle
acceleration, richen the high-speed needle 1/4 turn by turning the
needle counterclockwise.
Tank 2
1. From tank 2 forward, the T-Maxx should be driven with the
body on.
2. Driving procedure: Gently pull the throttle trigger to 1/2
throttle over a 2-second count. Then gently apply the brake to
stop. Count the two seconds out while accelerating: one
thousand one, one thousand two, and then stop. Repeat this
starting and stopping procedure until the second tank of fuel
is nearly empty.
3. When the fuel tank is nearly empty, shut off the engine and let it
cool for 15 minutes.
Tank 3
1. Driving procedure: Gently pull the throttle trigger to 1/2
throttle over a 3-second count. Then gently apply the brake
to stop. Count the three seconds out while accelerating: one
thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three,
and then stop. Repeat this starting and stopping
procedure until the third tank of fuel is nearly empty.
2. As the engine loosens, the idle speed may increase
and cause the model to try to creep forward when
stopped. Reduce the idle speed by turning the idle
adjustment (see page 22) on the carburetor
counterclockwise.
3. When the fuel tank is nearly empty, shut off the engine and
refuel. From here on out, you do not need to let the engine cool
between tanks.
Tank 4
1. Driving procedure: Gently pull the throttle trigger to full
throttle over a 3-second count. Then gently apply the brake to
stop. Count the three seconds out while accelerating: one
thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three, and then
stop. Repeat this starting and stopping procedure until the
fourth tank of fuel is nearly empty.
2. Apply the throttle gradually! Your finger should not reach full
throttle until the end of the three-second count.The T-Maxx may
try to shift into second gear. If it does, reduce the throttle input.
Do not let the T-Maxx shift out of first gear.
3. Keep your driving smooth and consistent.
4. When the fuel tank is nearly empty, shut off the engine and
refuel.
Tank 5
1. Driving procedure: Gently pull the throttle trigger to full
throttle over a 3-second count, hold for 2 more seconds, and
then gently apply the brake to stop. Count the five seconds out
while accelerating. Repeat this starting and stopping
procedure until the fifth tank of fuel is nearly empty.
2. The model should be shifting into second gear. If it is not, try
turning the high-speed needle clockwise 1/8 turn to lean the
fuel mixture slightly and test for shifting.
3. When the fuel tank is nearly empty, shut off the engine and
refuel.
Tank 6
During the sixth tank of fuel, the engine can be tuned for general
performance use. Proceed to the next section in this manual.
Tank
1
2
3
4
5
Throttle
1/4
1/2
1/2
Full
Full
Time
2 Seconds
2 Seconds
3 Seconds
3 Seconds
5 Seconds
Cool
15 Minutes
15 Minutes
-
-
-
Body
Off
On
On
On
On
Notes
Apply throttle gradually.
Apply throttle gradually.
Reduce idle speed if necessary.
Do not allow shifting to high gear.
Accelerate over 3 second count,
hold for 2 seconds.

As you gain
experience in the
hobby, you may
discover that many people
have differing opinions on
what is the proper
procedure to break-in a
model engine. Only use the
Traxxas break-in procedure.
Other break-in procedures
could result in a weak,
damaged, or otherwise poor
performing engine. The
procedure outlined here
was extensively tested and
proven to yield better
performing engines than
other “common” break-in
methods. Even if you have
years of experience using
model engines, please do
not ignore this caution!

Thats what it said on the page of the manual except in a more graphic understanding way where i just copied and paste, check it out, http://www.robotcombat.com/products/images/tra4910-manual.pdf Page-33

 

[michael]

how warm should it be out side to break it in it is going to be around 50 for the next week

 

[nedlynitro]

I would think 50+ would be good, i think it is more the freezing weather that people worry about, most would suggest putting a sock on the engine or something to keep it warm, if you wanted to break it in like a pro, you can buy a on-board temp gauge that tells you the temp of the engine, and if you know witch temps are good and witch are not then you can break it in perfectly, last i read a good temp for the engine to be at during a break in is right around 200 give or take a little, if you would like, where i am not a pro when it comes to temps for the engine and weather only cause I'm a little more merciless when it comes to the weather, post your questions under the t-maxx or nitro talk, a lot of people on this site has great advice for good weather conditions for break in, as well as what temp you want your engine to be around while breaking it in, just start a new thread, and make sure it is under the right category, ask about the weather and temps of the engine, and you should have plenty of answers and opinions!

Temp gauges are around 25-30 bucks and i have heard to be well worth it when it comes to doing things right!

 

[maximusjacko]

reset the carb to actory settings and go from there mate then 1 8th turns on his speed needle to optimize best peformance ... hope this helped

 

[michael]

i am going to go get me a new moter today and start fresh and a few more things hop ups and body i just wanted to thank every one for the help

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Seal it as soon as you take it out of the box to eliminate any chances of air leaks. Read the tuning tips and tricks at the top of the nitro forum. It explains sealing in detail.

 

[jcjhl69]

A 3.3 will drop right in, but you will soon need to start upgrading the drive line in it. Since you are getting a new engine today do your self a favor and pick up a new exhaust coupler for it as well. That could be cracked causing all of your issues, and you do not want to still have these issues with the new mill.

 

[michael]

got it sealed and broke in started playing and melted my spur gear have to get another but i will go back with steel but truck had alot more power than the old moter