Lessen
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It's all good man. priorities, priorities
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k5floyd
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ok so i have some time now to fool around with my maxx. right now i am waiting for a shim kit to come in the mail and then soon after i will have pics, part #s, and description of what it took to get it to work. I'm wondering if i should just post it all in this thread or start a new thread?? i want anyone attempting a similar build to be able search and find mine.
override
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I am more than interested in see everything you have to offer on this build. As soon as the Picco .26 JL Reddot is back in stock and available I will be finishing my build.
Maybe just get the moderator to rename the thread to "Big Block T-Maxx with 1/8th diffs" or something like that...
Maybe just get the moderator to rename the thread to "Big Block T-Maxx with 1/8th diffs" or something like that...
override
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I always use photobucket and just copy and paste the img code to the post, they are automatically resized and shown. I'm glad your gonna post some info up! I'm on standby trying to figure out what to do with my new Picco .26 JL RD and my maxx.
k5floyd
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ok so to recap i have FLM extended chassis, FLM hybrid bulks w/ Hot Bodies diffs (recomended by FLM), .28 Picco, 2.5 trans, MIP 2.5 front center CVD, and originaly used hardened outdrives from rc-monster.
the problem i ran into was that the front drive shaft was a tad too long and i wasn't able to get the trans bolted down. the following is how i got everthing to fit and work the way i wanted it to. i used the front shaft from this kit http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDXN8&P=**Missing Data**
first i took the pinion shaft to a bench grinder and took a few milimeters off the end. that helped and i was able to get the trans bolted down but the driveshaft was binding bad enough that i wasn't even able to turn it.
the slots in my outdrive needed to be just a few milimeters longer so i took my dremel and tried to grind them down a bit longer but my hardened outdrives from rc-monster were too hard and i acomplished absolutely nothing. i searched online and found a few outdrives that looked like they might work. the only outdrive that fit with out any binding at all were these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFYL1&P=7. here is a side by side shot of the rc-monster outdrive and the hpi outdrives. the hpi outrive is on the left and the rc-monster outdrive that i was using is on the right.
with the new hpi outdrive there was some serious in/out play so i order this shim kit http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1460_133/products_id/4067/n/Kyosho-8x10mm-Shim-Set-10. i ended up needing one .1 shim on the inside of the pinion and five .3 shims on the outside.
here is a pic of the whole assembly
---------- Post added at 9:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:53 PM ----------
i am going out of town tomorrow til next monday and have a few things to order like a radio/reciever and pivot balls since they are now on my other maxx so the truck wont be complete for a week maybe two and the rest of the pics will have to wait.
the problem i ran into was that the front drive shaft was a tad too long and i wasn't able to get the trans bolted down. the following is how i got everthing to fit and work the way i wanted it to. i used the front shaft from this kit http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDXN8&P=**Missing Data**
first i took the pinion shaft to a bench grinder and took a few milimeters off the end. that helped and i was able to get the trans bolted down but the driveshaft was binding bad enough that i wasn't even able to turn it.
the slots in my outdrive needed to be just a few milimeters longer so i took my dremel and tried to grind them down a bit longer but my hardened outdrives from rc-monster were too hard and i acomplished absolutely nothing. i searched online and found a few outdrives that looked like they might work. the only outdrive that fit with out any binding at all were these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFYL1&P=7. here is a side by side shot of the rc-monster outdrive and the hpi outdrives. the hpi outrive is on the left and the rc-monster outdrive that i was using is on the right.
with the new hpi outdrive there was some serious in/out play so i order this shim kit http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1460_133/products_id/4067/n/Kyosho-8x10mm-Shim-Set-10. i ended up needing one .1 shim on the inside of the pinion and five .3 shims on the outside.
here is a pic of the whole assembly
---------- Post added at 9:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:53 PM ----------
i am going out of town tomorrow til next monday and have a few things to order like a radio/reciever and pivot balls since they are now on my other maxx so the truck wont be complete for a week maybe two and the rest of the pics will have to wait.
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Extreme RC Mods
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I was just chatting with override and he told me about this post, I wish I had seen it earlier as I have had length issues with a couple custom rides too. An easy way to adjust a dog bone to length is to find a piece of steel tubing with the same ID as the bones OD. Then you can just cut the bone and either remove some material, or use the tubing to add length if needs be. Once you have everything lined up you can (silver solder) it back together making sure your pins line up perfectly. I used this bone for many gallons, it was a front center for a savage, lengthened by 2.5" The other option is to find a machine shop and have them machine a piece of drill stock to your specs, ask them to cut it dry so your solder will stick properly. It's just another option, I hope it helps 
override
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Awesome! thanks for the info guys!
k5floyd
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i have run into more problems with these 1/8th scale hybrid bulks!
had some time tonight to work on my truck and my steering bellcrank now hits my rpm a-arm and hinge pin and will not clear it at all. also the 4 holes in the bulks where the skid plate bolts to do not line up with the 4 holes in the skid plate.
after running into these new issues i did some quick measuring and i beleive i have discovered the source of all of my issues with these 1/8th scale hybrid bulks. first took some measurments on the chassis and everything matches the chassis i have from east end machining on my other maxx. then took some measurements on the flm bulks and discovered that the distance from the center of the arms or the cvds to the furthest hole on the bulk where the chassis is bolted to is 2-3mm shorter than stock. this is probably exactly how much too long my front driveshaft was, how much space i need for my steering bellcrank to clear the arms, and how far off the skid plate holes are.
i know this flm stuff is quality stuff and real nice looking but i am real disapointed in these hybrid bulks now. one other complaint i have with the hybrid bulks is that i can wiggle the pinion shaft and watch the bearing move side to side in the bulks. the bearing is good and the inner race does not move side to side within the outer race. this is with the diff installed and shimmed properly as well. so i will be contacting flm tomorrow sometime and hopefully get all of this sorted out. i will also try and get pics up tomorrow to better show these issues.
had some time tonight to work on my truck and my steering bellcrank now hits my rpm a-arm and hinge pin and will not clear it at all. also the 4 holes in the bulks where the skid plate bolts to do not line up with the 4 holes in the skid plate.
after running into these new issues i did some quick measuring and i beleive i have discovered the source of all of my issues with these 1/8th scale hybrid bulks. first took some measurments on the chassis and everything matches the chassis i have from east end machining on my other maxx. then took some measurements on the flm bulks and discovered that the distance from the center of the arms or the cvds to the furthest hole on the bulk where the chassis is bolted to is 2-3mm shorter than stock. this is probably exactly how much too long my front driveshaft was, how much space i need for my steering bellcrank to clear the arms, and how far off the skid plate holes are.
i know this flm stuff is quality stuff and real nice looking but i am real disapointed in these hybrid bulks now. one other complaint i have with the hybrid bulks is that i can wiggle the pinion shaft and watch the bearing move side to side in the bulks. the bearing is good and the inner race does not move side to side within the outer race. this is with the diff installed and shimmed properly as well. so i will be contacting flm tomorrow sometime and hopefully get all of this sorted out. i will also try and get pics up tomorrow to better show these issues.
override
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So in other words what your saying is its not the chassis throwing things off its the hybrid bulks doing it? It was mentioned earlier that the chassis is a little shorter than the stock one. If its is infact your bulks causing the problems then I'll go with a FLM chassis and go ahead and finish building my maxx. Thanks for the updates so far!
override
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Ok, so does the EEM chassis have the same setup? 1/8th diffs etc? You said that chassis didnt have any issues but the FLM does due to the hybrids correct? Sorry I'm being redundant in my questions I just wanna be as sure as possible before I buy a chassis.
override
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Ok, well in that case I'm gonna put me an order for the FLM chassis. If it doesn't end up working out then we know we have a problem. I'll keep you posted on my findings when ever I start building.
Thanks for all the info so far bud!
So I wonder if anyone has ever gotten the FLM extended chassis and 4908 transmission to work with their hybrid diffs. I actually just ordered their front shaft today. Hopefully it will fit. Then I'll have to deal with the steering issue.
Stroytika
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just wanted to say thanks for posting all this. i was considering going the flm way but after reading this i decided to go with LST diffs in my maxx.
best of luck.
best of luck.
Stroytika
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stock// Aluminum, and the lst cases. you just need to make adapters. its an easy mod. then I'm just going to use the driveshaft on the the rear lst diff because its the right length for 4907 + monoblock. for the front I'm just going to use the pipe trick earlier in this thread.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9153
override
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I know this is an old thread but might be time to resurrect it, I want to try and avoid making another thread over this chassis and the fitment issues.
I know, I know its been along time but I finally broke down and got the parts needed to finish my t-maxx!
I'm going with the ultimate hybrid bulks and hyper chassis, I will be checking the angle on the bulks tomorrow to make sure there wont be any fitment issues on that.
My other question is on the transmission used with the hyper chassis, I have a 3.3 4908 t-maxx if my mind serves me correctly and my stock transmisson doesn't fit the chassis. I have a UE aluminum tranny with RR Gears and it will fit if I round the corners off on the mount area.
What tranny was intended to be used with the hyper chassis? There website says that this chassis will beef up ANY maxx, giving me the impression that any tranny will work.
**UPDATE**
I actually have the 4907 T-maxx...The transmission does actually fit the chassis, I had the chassis backwards.
The center shafts (depending if the one FLM made works) I might have figured out. I believe MIP splined shafts for the T-Maxx 2.5 with the correct bore sizes (they make multiple sizes) will work for both from and back.
The angle of the bulks is correct so far from what I can tell!
You can see what I mean by I was looking at the chassis backwards at first - The points are to the front instead of the rear
I know, I know its been along time but I finally broke down and got the parts needed to finish my t-maxx!
I'm going with the ultimate hybrid bulks and hyper chassis, I will be checking the angle on the bulks tomorrow to make sure there wont be any fitment issues on that.
My other question is on the transmission used with the hyper chassis, I have a 3.3 4908 t-maxx if my mind serves me correctly and my stock transmisson doesn't fit the chassis. I have a UE aluminum tranny with RR Gears and it will fit if I round the corners off on the mount area.
What tranny was intended to be used with the hyper chassis? There website says that this chassis will beef up ANY maxx, giving me the impression that any tranny will work.
**UPDATE**
I actually have the 4907 T-maxx...The transmission does actually fit the chassis, I had the chassis backwards.
The center shafts (depending if the one FLM made works) I might have figured out. I believe MIP splined shafts for the T-Maxx 2.5 with the correct bore sizes (they make multiple sizes) will work for both from and back.
The angle of the bulks is correct so far from what I can tell!
You can see what I mean by I was looking at the chassis backwards at first - The points are to the front instead of the rear
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