FastEddys XB8 Build

[vbgagnon]

Eddy I couldn't have said it better myslef!

 

[Hypedonrc]

That is a hell of a good price for a digital caliper. I think I'll be doing a little shopping there soon. Thanks for the links!

 

[NITRO 21]

I went to the local harbor freight to pick one up and the sale had just ended and it was back up to $40, still got one though.

 

[ToRqUe]

Whats does that tool do in the picture ???

 

[Loser]

it measures stuff very precisly,it's handy to have around if your milling or building an intricate r/c kit :hammer:

I've got one its just not digital

 

[FastEddy]

Lets finish the rear suspension.
Hand press the bearings into the front and back of the rear hub carriers. If they take more than just a little pressure to get in you need to make sure they are squared up. There shouldn't be any need to force them in.

Slide the universal through the bearings. Take note of the carriers to make sure you don't put them in backward. (****LIKE I DID IN THIS PIC**** : )

Slide the wheel axle over the end of the universal, align the pin holes and slide the pin in. Use the large set screw and lock-tight to hold the pin in place. The set screw goes in inside the center of the universal shaft.

Position the axle carrier into the end of the A-Arm and insert the pivot pin.

Place the short screw into the hole next to the pin. Believe it or not it holds the pin into place. I may try to find a screw with a larger head if it fails to work properly.

The camber links are next. I messed up this part due to a re-run of Babewatch. Pay attention! The ball ends are pre-threaded for both the left and right handed threads of the turnbuckles. LOOK BEFORE YOU FORCE THREAD THEM. They should start threading easily. If they don't look at the picture in the manual. The line around the turnbuckle should be facing the ball end with the molded dot on it. (***Opposite of what you see in this pic.*** ) This is now the 2nd dyslexic mistake I have made.

Use the screws and attach the finished camber link to the shock tower and the hub carrier. check for binding.

 

[Blah420]

that things lookin more and more bad ass everyday

 

[NITRO 21]

Great pics eddy! I am just starting the rear suspension on mine.

 

[FastEddy]

The rear wing is child's play. Here are some pics. If you need more info on this step consider taking up knitting.

 

[Lessen]

The rear wing is child's play. Here are some pics. If you need more info on this step consider taking up knitting.

not to rain on your parade Eddy but knitting can actually get extremely complicated.

On a brighter note... the buggy is lookin great Eddy! I really would like to get a buggy this spring so I'll have a buggy AND a hopped up MT for the RCNT bashes next year, except I think I'm waiting for the TTR S3. Great thread so far and those pics really do rock. Good job, keep it up!

 

[alkyula]

yeah i can't imagine making a scarf much less a sweater with two big needles. how is that even possible????

the xray is inducing more and more drool as the build goes on. looking good.

 

[FastEddy]

The front suspension in may was is similar to the rear.
Assemble the hub carriers and universals. Insert the steering bushings into the C-hubs. Make sure you place the short one on the top and the longer one on the bottom.

Slide the C-hub over the universal and screw them together. Again make note of the screw length and use Lock-tight.

Press the pivot ball into the rear of the A-arm and shown. I was able to snap them in with my fingers.

Place the C-hub into the end of the A-arm and slide the pivot shaft from the front of the arm, through the c-hub and into the pivot ball.

Choose the proper eccentric bushing for your setup and insert it into the A-arm to capture the pivot pin. Use the short screw to secure the eccentric bushing.

Assemble the upper A-arm and ball cup. Like the rear, pay attention to the threads on the turnbuckle as not to assemble them backward.

Place the eccentric bushings of your choice into the upper suspension holder and the shock tower.

Slide the pivot shafts into the upper A-arms, slide the shafts into the bushings on the shock tower and capture the other ends with the upper suspension holder and secure with 2 screws.

Place the included shims in the front and back of the A-arm as per the setup you choice.

Capture the outside of the A-arm assembly with a screw and lock-nut.

All done!

Attach both the front and rear assemblies to the chassis with four screws each. Don't forget to slide the bumpers under the bulks.

Attach the rear brace to the chassis and the shocktower.

 

[CorradoPsi]

i can almost remember a time, when mine was that clean. right now its covered in dry goo from wet mulch. you know, the stuff under the wood chips but not down to the dirt yet. so gross. maybe ill pull the radio tray and motor and hose it off tomorrow.

 

[FastEddy]

right now its covered in dry goo from wet mulch. you know, the stuff under the wood chips but not down to the dirt yet. so gross.

O- How I pine for the day!

Normally when I'm in the shop I'm wearing a smock and my shop shirt under it. Its weird wrenching in work cloths. It doesn't take me 10 minutes to clean up when the dinner bell rings.

Feel free to join in if you have a building tip or have another way to do things. And by all means let mt know if I'm doing something wrong. This is all about getting someone out of a tight spot if they are having issues.

 

[CorradoPsi]

you will want to do this to your arms to allow full droop. your going to have to build your front shock because you will need them as a guage of how far to go while doing this.

Dremel the front lower arms to allow full shock down travel. Just take away enough material to give clearence for the C-hubs, so they don't hit the lower arms. The arms are very thick, so they won't be weakened.

Also, you may have to dremel the C-hub a little after to allow full steering at full down travel. These mods give the car more steering and is better in the bumps/jumps.

you will want to dremel using a sanding drum until you get full shock extension with the shock in the stock position.

 

[FastEddy]

This is good info.
I will check the C-hubs for restriction and make modifications to the a-arms as needed.
Nice find.

 

[FastEddy]

I'm going to skip a few pages in the book and jump to building the shocks.
The reason I'm doing this is 2 fold.
1- I hate working on the chassis and having the A-arms flopping around.
2- I want to be sure that my mod on the A-arm listed above by Corado is proper.

For most people that have done this it will be a shocks 101 refresher. For those that haven't it may serve as a good guide.

Look for it to be posted this evening.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Ed, you always do a bang up job. Great pictures and detailed info. I hate you, now I have to get one. It's not optional anymore. Jerk.

 

[FastEddy]

I hate you, now I have to get one. It's not optional anymore. Jerk.

I'm going to change my last name to Jones. Did I tell you I'm putting an Olympic size pool in my backyard?

 

[CorradoPsi]

I'm going to change my last name to Jones. Did I tell you I'm putting an Olympic size pool in my backyard?

why not dredge out the basement and make it indoor and heated while your at it too?

the backyard is for your new XB8 testing track.