DXtreme1 TMaxx Dual Builds

[DXtreme1]

I like that switch. I found one similar to it the other day but I was rushing and never read the details that it works for NiCd, NiMh and LiPo. It doesn't say anything about LiFe batteries though I assume it should work. Now that you attached a link to the switch thats similar to the other one I was looking at I may just order one. After reading the details on the one I saw previously the single LED is multicolored and glows according to the voltage level. I have an old school VoltOmeter on the 2.5 hybrid right now. I had it previously installed inside the RPM RC10GT receiver box but I replaced the box with a new one and have not done the same mod I did to the previous one. The 3.3 is the test bed for mods. Everything that works on the 3.3 will eventually make its way to my sons truck. My plan is to keep on running the truck with the stock FOC, stock center, front and rear shafts and diffs. I want to see how much power the stock parts can take and upgrade them if they prove to be a huge failure point. For the diffs it comes down to the UE of I can find one in really good condition for a good price or the FLM ones. I like the UE ones since I can still use the RPM bulks and keep it light. The FLM one unfortunately is a full replacement bulk and diffs. The tranny eventually will get the RRP treatment and all shafts will be upgraded to steel CVDs. I was also thinking of doing a full 1/8 scale buggy tranny replacement as well. I saw a TMaxx project where this was done a few years ago. The Slipper gears will stay plastic though as my failsafe breaking point.

As far as the switch I may need to snag a Carbon Fiber sheet to make the switch mount and the receiver battery tray but I do have all kinds of aluminum bars both flat and L Shaped ones in different sizes and thickness so I may just start with that first. I have to wait til the next tax refund to purchase my desktop CNC milling machine, engraver, 3D printer all in one machine then I can make my own custom parts.

 

[Certified Mike]

I agree. Those switches are cool and offer a lot of what nitro users need for an actual working switch and even has features where as I saw the stock switch as simply a failure point and it didn't get used much at all in my rigs. Yeah, it's $20 or so but it does a whole lot more AND it's not a target to get switched off by mistake.
As far as the gearing goes, that's really gonna come down to driving style and the surfaces you run. Lots of jumping will put stress on the driveline and the diffs... Even tho you have a 'weakpoint' that point is protecting the engine spur and clutch more so than the parts after that... If you follow me. (it's confusing to word properly)
While I like aluminum for its weight, strength and appearance, I am careful about using it with power... Carbon would be my first choice.

 

[DXtreme1]

My AB Mods OS 21TM came in. I installed the new Buku Clutch, new motor mount, new EZ Start wire with a modded glow plug lead(used an alligator clip to access the glow plug easier)new RRP clutch bell and new motor mount. Put in a whole new Traxxas Air Filter as well. Too bad I got to wait a few more days before I can run the new mill since I got to work a couple more days.

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Close up of the motor mount

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I ordered an ERCM pipe 2 months ago. After a multitude of emails never got a response back after the initial order confirmation email. It seems like a I'll never get the pipe. I was going to order a Buku Pipe after the ERCM debacle but the big block pipes continue to be out of stock. Hence I'm using the big block CVEC pipe. The distance from the actual pipe to the manifold was quite a bit from where so wanted the pipe to end. I had to bridge the gap with 2 CVEC couplers and a cut off from an exhaust manifold. It's not pretty (which bugs the heck out of me but got no choice for now)but it does the job. The pipe definitely works better than the drilled and ported out stinger on the Traxxas pipe. I have a neighbor that modifies and works on motorcycles I think I may hit him up to see if he knows anyone that can make a custom pipe similar to the 1/5 scale pipes.

 

[Certified Mike]

If you have any pics and the men # of the clutch assy pieces of LOVE to know what you used and how it works... Also, what cvec pipe have you got and how do you like it?

 

[DXtreme1]

The clutch is a 3 shoe type. There are 3 grub screws built into flywheel. The grub screws grabs the part of the springs that are embedded into the body of the flywheel right beside each post. The grub screws are numbered from 0 to 2 and clearly marked. It may seem like a simple design but there is some serious engineering here. The beauty of design is that it's similar to a 3 shoe clutch that we are familiar with except for the added bits thus making servicing the clutch quite easy. The CVEC pipe I'm using is model number Z165S. It really woke up the OS21 TM compared to the Traxxas pipe that I modified drilled and ported out the stinger. I couldn't pass up the deal I got it in EBay for $10 brand new. My

If you have any pics and the men # of the clutch assy pieces of LOVE to know what you used and how it works... Also, what cvec pipe have you got and how do you like it?

only regret is I should have bought 2 or 3 of these since the seller is now selling them for $29 now that he figured out there is a market for it.

 

[olds97_lss]

Could maybe give this THS pipe a try:
http://www.mcssl.com/store/903f3169...b/110-t-maxx-25-33-os-18-tuned-exhaust-system

Tuned for larger than the 2.5 engine.

I run their small block pipe on my 21TM revo. At the time I bought it, they had 2, a low/high rpm pipe. I got the low to try and coax more torque out of the 2.5R I had. I gave up and got the 21TM for it and it runs really well on that pipe. Not sure how similar it is to this one, but guessing it would work well for you.

I also run the big block revo pipe on my BB revo with an LRP28. I use a mangled LST2 header though due to the fact that I have a new era leaner mount and the header they included wouldn't work that engine angle. Still, the engine runs very strong on it.

 

[DXtreme1]

Could maybe give this THS pipe a try:
http://www.mcssl.com/store/903f3169...b/110-t-maxx-25-33-os-18-tuned-exhaust-system

Tuned for larger than the 2.5 engine.

I run their small block pipe on my 21TM revo. At the time I bought it, they had 2, a low/high rpm pipe. I got the low to try and coax more torque out of the 2.5R I had. I gave up and got the 21TM for it and it runs really well on that pipe. Not sure how similar it is to this one, but guessing it would work well for you.

I also run the big block revo pipe on my BB revo with an LRP28. I use a mangled LST2 header though due to the fact that I have a new era leaner mount and the header they included wouldn't work that engine angle. Still, the engine runs very strong on it.

Hmm definitely worth the consideration. If I don't find someone to fabricate a custom pipe then I think I may pick one up to test it. The one thing I like about the CVEC is the adjustability. I can tune it for torque or high speed but it does require some maintenance. Right now I have the pipe tuned for high and mid range punch. I don't enjoy wheelies I guess I'm still a racer at heart and require precise handling and control but love to jump these trucks at the same time. I got one more day and I can finally run the modded motor. I may have to take a video and post it once I get it tuned. Between the Buku clutch and the CVEC pipe there's a lot to play with as far as adjustments and I think it may take me some time to get it all working together to where I want the tune to be.

 

[olds97_lss]

I'm kind of surprised the trans held up to the 21TM pre-modded. My revo didn't hold up to it well at all. I had it apart 3 or 4 times then ordered RRP steel for all the internals. Fried the main input gear and the output gears a couple times.

 

[DXtreme1]

I took apart the 3.3 tranny on both trucks and used Team FastEddy Dogbone and Transmission Grease. So far both transmission has held up and both transmission was used with the unmodded OS 21TM.

 

[WoodiE]

The Team Fast Eddy grease is some great stuff @DXtreme1!

 

[DXtreme1]

Yes it's really good stuff. For the diffs I use this. It's so thick that's it can be used on non sealable diffs.

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So I went ahead and proceeded with the clutch break in. Upon start up I was surprised how different the modded mill sounded right away. It's throatier and louder. After break in I did some full throttle runs. This thing breathes so much better and accelerates with madness. The gearing seems correct. Pretty much dialed out the wheelies but you can tell the front wants to lift still. In the grass and loose dirt if you don't feather the acceleration during a turn it will do donuts effortlessly. I had to ease out on the trigger for sure. In full acceleration on grass or dirt the truck seems it's floating in the air lol. After a few minutes I got used to the speed and the truck just accelerated so smoothly on the turns. I thought after the mod the tune would be finicky but if anything it's actually easier to tune and holds it well. As far as the clutch after a few minor adjustments I had it dialed in where I want it to be. This clutch grabs really well and gives a good sense of control. So far I'm realy happy with the set up. A little more tweaking and I'm gonna do some bashing and jumping.

 

[DXtreme1]

Finally got around to fabricating my hump pack RX battery holder. I installed it via the front shock towers and mounted it low as possible but I took consideration to make sure it was mounted high enough where just in case of an impact there would be no parts that would possibly crush the battery. I used a zip tie to secure the battery on the holder.

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[DXtreme1]

Received my switch got a good deal and got it for $15 off EBay. It's smaller than I thought which will make installation easier since I'll have more mounting options. Will have to fabricate the aluminum mount later and I'll post pictures when I'm done. While I'm at it I'm going to fabricate another RX battery holder. I'm not satisfied with the one I previously posted. I may change up the design a lil bit as well. I noticed the bend on the front of the battery holder is not that straight and it was starting to bug me. I may have rushed this one a lil bit. I'm gonna have to take my time on the next one to make sure I don't end up redoing it.

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[DXtreme1]

Fabricated the switch bracket out of L-shaped aluminum sheeting. Cut it to size and mounted it on the front mounting screws of the throttle/brake servo. Used longer screws and aluminum washers to get the desired height.

 

[olds97_lss]

That's a neat little switch. Tells you your charge level as well. Guessing it's not waterproof. Still cool though.

 

[DXtreme1]

It's splashproof but not waterproof. I could put some silicone on the the joints and the wiring loom to waterproof it and seems it's high enough it would probably would never be submerged in water but the switch is quite cool since it does give me the charge state of my RX battery.

That's a neat little switch. Tells you your charge level as well. Guessing it's not waterproof. Still cool though.

 

[DXtreme1]

I think I may have found my "Show Body" and a new set of wheels and tires that I want to run. They're both from the Arrma Nero. The issue I may have about the tires is that I run the 17mm splined wheel adaptors and I'm hoping that it will fit the Arrma wheels(Arrma wheels are also 17mm but the Nero runs non splined 17mm hubs). This may take a couple of months before I get all the things I need to complete this side project since I want to do the paint job right and I have a few other things that I need to upgrade first before this side project will happen(need to upgrade the throttle/brake servo and possibly the transmission-just need to see if it will hold up as is with the new modified mill) I need to pick up some Tamiya vinyl masking sheets and a new bottle of liquid mask. Also need to come up with the design and color scheme and get some new paint. Here's a pic of the body and wheels. I really wanted to do the Fazon body but the Fazon body is too low profile and I'm sure I'll have fitment issues. Even though I'll never run the body I'd still want it to have the right fit and stance. What do you guys think should I experiment with this combo?

 

[DXtreme1]

I thought the Fuel Cell Receiver box replica was a little too busy and out of place with the Hot Racing name and website inscription. I went ahead and covered it with a pice of matte black vinyl which luckily matched perfectly and decided to add a white Futaba decal. I think it cleaned it up nicely.

 

[Certified Mike]

The fab work is all REAL NICE!!! It's clean and not too 'showy' plus it all functions! The body Def looks like there are gonna be some for issues but if it's just for the shelf, why not? Just be sure to get it trimmed til you're happy. It would suck to have to hack up a nice paint job after the fact! That switch looks great on that mount!

 

[DXtreme1]

Thanks Certified Mike. I wished I had the proper equipment to do real fab work. But I'm happy enough with the current fab work considering it was all done using a Dremel. The body will definitely be a challenge but since it doesn't have to be functional it should not be an issue.

The fab work is all REAL NICE!!! It's clean and not too 'showy' plus it all functions! The body Def looks like there are gonna be some for issues but if it's just for the shelf, why not? Just be sure to get it trimmed til you're happy. It would suck to have to hack up a nice paint job after the fact! That switch looks great on that mount!