duratrax nitro evader ST

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be4life182

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well I'm new here, looked like the best r/c forum out there, so i joined. anyway, i have a duratrax nitro evader ST with the stock .18 os engine. now I'm not sure this is in the right forum, but feel free to move it. anyway, every time i try to start it, it spits fuel out of the exhaust and quickly floods. after taking the plug out 4 times and draining the fuel, i figured something must be up. i leaned out the needle and it still floods without starting. any suggestions to what this is. I've never had this problem before. also, its 31 degrees out if that helps. o, and i checked the glow plug, ans that still glows.
 
anybody?is this in the right forum?
 
dont know explain exactly how you started the engine i got a evader st too soo i should be able to help?
 
Well, with that in mind - And I'm far from very knowledgable w/ Nitro Engines <considering I've just got back into RC a few months ago> - But Theres a few things you could try.

First, the needle you leaned out, be sure it was your LSN, not the HSN. Dont take insult from that, its a simple mistake.

Second, Check yoru manual and see how long your backpressure line needs to be, from the tuned pipe to the fuel tank. If its too short, it can cause too much pressure in the tank, therefor - forcing too much fuel to the motor. Another thing you want to check is that the tip of the pipe is not clogged, or again, too much pressure to your fuel tank and that can cause the flooding. (Tho i doubt this, since you said your spittin fuel out the pipe).

Third, Make sure your air filter is clean. If your engine can't get enough air to fire, all your gonna do is keep turnin over the motor and suckin more fuel in.

Thats all I can think of - Hope this helps. Also, Some people suggest putting 'exhaust' tape, or something around the head to keep it warmer while running. Tho i dont know if the cold tempature will effect firing up the engine, Theres a chance that it could. Try warming up your engine w/ a blow dryer or keepin it close to some sort of heat source (careful not to get it too hot!). This is a far-fetched idea, but the engine could be SO cold, that the glow plug can't ignite the fuel,and by the time things would warm up enough, its already flooded.

Good luck!
~ Mike
 
ok, let me explain in detail now. i think i might know the cause. well, first off, for the past serveral months the truck wouldnt prime. just a big pain in the but really. also, i noticed there was a small leak from the lid of the gas tank. so i opened it up and it the screw underneath the lid was loose. i tightened it and it made a nice seal. too good actually, i think thats why its getting to much. do you think this could be a problem. let me explain better. the screw under the gas tank lid locks doen a blastic plate. the tigher it is the more the oring buldges, hence a better seal. let me know what you think about that.
 
i have a evader and a bunch of my friend have them also
they need to be rebuilt about 3/4 to a gallon of fuel new piston and sleeve
what a lot of us do is replace the motor with the wasp .18
 
I've been throguh 2 quarts and it still runs fine. do you really have to rebuild it every gallon or so? I've never heard of this. maybe its just because u race yours and stuff? i dunno. well it works fine now.
 
the o rings are not for seals but they act like a cushion for the gas tank

if u still are having problem call duratrax they will replace and fix the engine its got a two year warrenty :idea: :idea:

EDIT sry i thought you ment under the tank not the lid
that would be it dose it work now

be4life182 said:
I've been throguh 2 quarts and it still runs fine. do you really have to rebuild it every gallon or so? I've never heard of this. maybe its just because u race yours and stuff? i dunno. well it works fine now.

I second that you must have that leaned out all the way!! NEED FOR TO MUCH SPEED!! lol :jk: i rebuilt my DTX .18 2 through 6 gallons and it is fast!!

next time use afterrun oil after every run and put the piston to the bottom of the crank if you do that you will have awsome engine performence!!! W()()t W()()t!!
 
o speaking of that i have after run oil but i never use it. where and how much should i allpy it?
 
anybody? someone must use after run. it goes in your carb, but where exactly and how much. do you have to crank the engine after, to get the oil incorporated?
 
Anytime you are putting your ride away for more than a few hours, you should use after-run. It should be put in two places. The carb and the block.

The carb; Remove the air filter and place 2-3 drops in the carb body, work the carb back and forth a few times to distribute the oil.

The block; Clean around your glow plug to prevent any dirt/debris from falling into the hole. Remove the glow plug and add 6 or so drops into the glow plug hole. Cycle the piston a few time to distribute the oil.

This will greatly increase the engine life.

A couple other things that help extend engine life. 1) Clean the air filter!!!!!!! 2) Position the piston at the bottom of the cylinder while it cools (between runs and at the end of the day)

A few minutes of TLC will pay off big time in the long run. The evader is a good basic ride and you will have many hours of enjoyment with a little care.


Mr T
 
thanks mr. T that was very imformative. but how am i supose to take off the air filter evertime, wouldnt that use a new zip tie every time? also, how do you know if its at the bottom of the cycle?
 
Yep, new zip tie everytime. Zip ties are cheap compared to the price of an engine rebuild or replacement!!

When the glow plug is out, rotate the flywheel with your finger. Look down the hole where the glow plug normally is and you will see the piston going up and down. When it is at the bottom ......stop. Some guys will make a mark on their flywheel so that they can find bottom without removing the glow plug.

Good Luck,

Mr T
 
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be4life maybe i dont put the zip-tie as tight as you but i think you should be able to pull the air cleaner off and work it back on without cuting the zip-tie

as far as putting the piston at bdc either remove the glo-plug and use something clean like a drink / coffee stir stick (make sure its at least like 4") put it in the glo plug hole and turn the flywheel by hand
when the stick is at its lowest position mark the flywheel with a sharpie for refence

or you can just turn by hand and feel for the middle between when you pass the pinch and when your to it again i dont think it has to be absulute bottom but as close as feasable
 
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or u can get those aluminum things that ues a screw to tighten there cheap i belive there uses for hoses like a clamp AID AUTO might have them or a simmilar store

mark your fly wheel with a perminet marker when its at the bottom so you allways know when its at the bottom
 
well the thing is, if i just pulled of and put on my air filter, i might get dirt in the enging, any suggestions for that?
 
Hey I've got a Q bout the Evader. I was looking in an old car action, and saw a pic of one. What in the world are the white mesh things that I saw on all the ball cups for?
 
I've wondered that too, I've come to figure that they are just for a little cusioning, so you dpnt break the joints as easily.
 
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