Baja 5B help

[roadrunneruk]

Hi Guys recently purchaced a Baja 5B over the moon with it, I've got a couple of questions if someone can help with them.

The wheel assemblys front and rear axels there is a lot of play, most noticible when you hold the wheel theres a lot of slop, is this usual for the Baja and if so can it be corrected, I've notice on other manufacturers cars the wheel assembly axels are solid and have no flex in comparison.

The rear wheel toe in is set with a lot of neg toe in again is this normal for the Baja, there appears to be no means of adjusting the rear end toe in/out.

Lastly I'm running the car rich and bogs a lot, but now theres been a few tanks gone through I want to start leaning it out, can someone run through the low and high settings, my presumption is the low is for idle and high for top end simular to a glow engine, just want to make sure I've got it right before burning holes in the piston.

Many thanks

Darren

 

[itsalifeworthliving]

Hi Guys recently purchaced a Baja 5B over the moon with it, I've got a couple of questions if someone can help with them.

The wheel assemblys front and rear axels there is a lot of play, most noticible when you hold the wheel theres a lot of slop, is this usual for the Baja and if so can it be corrected, I've notice on other manufacturers cars the wheel assembly axels are solid and have no flex in comparison.

The rear wheel toe in is set with a lot of neg toe in again is this normal for the Baja, there appears to be no means of adjusting the rear end toe in/out.

Lastly I'm running the car rich and bogs a lot, but now theres been a few tanks gone through I want to start leaning it out, can someone run through the low and high settings, my presumption is the low is for idle and high for top end simular to a glow engine, just want to make sure I've got it right before burning holes in the piston.

Many thanks

Darren

hey!! congrats man!! starting with the "slop".. no there shouldnt be any slop, specially if its new, weres it coming from? sunspension, wheel hubs? check it out.. it should be pretty snugg.. I'm starting to get a very little bit of slop in the rear from the hubs, mines almost 2 yrs old with countless gallons....THE REAR TOE IN... ITS ADJUSTABLE.. if you pull the wheel of youll see 4 hex screws. there is a small "wedge that comes out, your kit shoud come with a total of three diffrent degree's.. there is no "0" degree, but you can experiment with the ones it came with, it is desired to have some toe-in.. it helps the rear "track straight" during hard excellerations, high speeds and turns.. YOUR HALF RIGHT ON THE CARB SETTINGS!! the low speed is not the idle screw, it is for low speed excellaration..fun.fun.fun! make VERY SMALL ADJUSTMENTS! 1/16 OF A TURN!!..very sensitive.. take your time and dont over adjust, same thing with your high speed needle.. once you have it tuned dont mess with it unless you change something like a pipe or headkit or something, its not like a nitro where you constantly have to tune it..this is way more fun. good luck,keep us posted

 

[roadrunneruk]

Thanks for that, did suss out the toe in eventually, what i did find was the origianal fitted wedge spacer if rotated 180 deg will give zero deg toe, unfortuanatlly no other wedges were supplied,
the original toe in out of the box when meausured was 6 deg, now set to 2 deg and handles better.
The slop on the rear is resonable, from what youve described about the same as your 2 year old machine, the front after the first run out is lousy but cured it by fitting a washer under the e clip, drasticlly improved it but not brill compared to others I've seen on the market.
As to where it come from, perhaps my misfortune from hong kong, about £200 ($400)cheaper than uk retail shops, the seller was a real pain in delivery dates and communication, next time!!!!!!!!!!
whats the racing scene like in the USA for large scale off road.
thanks again for your advice

 

[Timmahh]

road, you ll see a BIT of slop, but not much, it should be pretty good. but theres always a tad with plastic. you can get and instll some shims to help it go away.

itsa has good info on the castor/camber setup.

you ll see 3 screwso n teh carb. two at the top and one lower.
the top left is the H needle. the top right is the L needle. the lower screw is idle adjust.

the low needle supplies all fuel for a gasser (opposite of a nitro) the H just adds Fuel TOO the low needle for the upper RPM Range.

now when you adjust the Low needle, you will notice the idle very, that is becuz your effectively changeing the fuel/air ratio. more fuel is richer, thus lower idle. less fuel is leaner thus higher idles. get the Low screw set so the motor spools up smoothly without to much bog. you ll get some (unless the motor is modified, ie ported ect) on a stock motor. just set it so it runs up the rpm range to 1/3rd of a throatle. then you ll need to do the once you have the low needle set so the motor spools up well, adjust the Idle screw (large lower single screw) to adjust the idle rpm. that is all this screw does is adjust the gap in the troatle plate for idle.

the low end needle deals with idle to about 1/3rd throatle rpms. the H needle then adds fuel to that when going from 1/3rh throatle to WOT.

so when adjusting the needles you want to use 1/18th to 1/12th turns. go very slow. if you get the gasser just a tad TOO LEAN, you ll lean sieze the top end. its not like a nitor if you get too lean the motor just gets hotter and eventualy stops running. then you can re richen the needles and give it another go. This just isnt the case with a gasser. you get too lean, and youll have to put a new topend on in most cases to get it going again.


just take it slow and check your plug color. that will tell you alot about how the motor runs.
grey/white color is Way LEAN (ofcourse a new plug will be nice and white, and will need a bit of runtime to develop a color)
light brown/tan color is Lean.
med brown, dark tank (kind of carmel color) is considered performance tuned. where you getting every bit of use out of the needles/fuel mix.

Medium brown to darker brown (like a hersey bar) is a good tune and prolly the safest for most users. every thing runs well. stays cool, and is least likly to have issues with.

Dark brown black is Rich. likely will run, but you ll be fouling out plugs on occasion, and the motor will be a bit boggy. you can tell a rich motor as it almost sounds like it is gargleing mouthwash.
a lean motor will sound like its trying to push out a log after bar night, but just can't get it out. lol

you can find a Hella lot of info on RCNTs sister site. www.hpibajaforum.com

baja specific forum with 2 yrs of info!!!!!

Racing here in the states is just getting going for the large scale units. especially in the off road sector, but this yr looks like it going to be a big yr for LS racing here.

Welcome to the addiction!
T