A Possible Big Problem

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i needed the pressure from the wd40 to blast some crap out then rinsed it out with fuel

which btw the burns like hell when it gets in a cut :hehe::hehe:

bad news tho the spring for the pin fell out in the gravel driveway, needless to say its gone

so right now I'm trying to find a site that sells parts for force .28 engines
I've looked b4, but can't find anything. maybe someone knows a place
i will look again tho
 
how big does the spring need to be? Pens have awesome useful little springs inside them, check them out they might be just what you need.
 
how big does the spring need to be? Pens have awesome useful little springs inside them, check them out they might be just what you need.

I would not recommend this. While pen springs are useful little things for other applications in RC, putting one in your engine is a huge no-no.

First, they aren't hardened steel so they'll either completely lose any "spring" or even potentially melt into slag. Second, most pen springs are thin gauge steel wire with a electroplated chrome-looking finish that can and will flake off and bounce around your engine. And if they're not the chrome plated kind they're brass or a similar soft metal which increases the likelihood of melted puddles of metal goo. This doesn't even address the diameter and length & travel of the spring needing to be within very close tolerances to avoid the pin working out of the hole... and banging around in your engine. Seeing a theme here? :)

Any of the above issues is definitely not something you want banging around in your engine chamber. Pony up the <$5 it would cost for a replacement spring. It's much cheaper than replacing the entire engine.
 
I would not recommend this. While pen springs are useful little things for other applications in RC, putting one in your engine is a huge no-no.

First, they aren't hardened steel so they'll either completely lose any "spring" or even potentially melt into slag. Second, most pen springs are thin gauge steel wire with a electroplated chrome-looking finish that can and will flake off and bounce around your engine. And if they're not the chrome plated kind they're brass or a similar soft metal which increases the likelihood of melted puddles of metal goo. This doesn't even address the diameter and length & travel of the spring needing to be within very close tolerances to avoid the pin working out of the hole... and banging around in your engine. Seeing a theme here? :)

Any of the above issues is definitely not something you want banging around in your engine chamber. Pony up the <$5 it would cost for a replacement spring. It's much cheaper than replacing the entire engine.

mmm, yes I have to agree with you there. Guess I didnt think it through. I also havent seen one of those setups with the spring and pin acting as the one-way. Seems like an odd method of a one-way?
So this setup means you dont use a one-way bearing?

I agree, save yourself the trouble and get the replacement parts.
 
If you know where you dropped it in the driveway.....you could always take a magnet out and give it a go...not that I have ever dropped a tiny part somewhere.
 
well i got lucky with the magnet, found the spring within 5 mins lol

I should get my fuel today, if so i will be able to run it in the evening tomorrow

well try
 
I also havent seen one of those setups with the spring and pin acting as the one-way. Seems like an odd method of a one-way?
So this setup means you dont use a one-way bearing?

To be honest, I'm not sure what the point of it is since I'm pretty sure the engines that have it have a OWB as well. My only guess is to lessen drag and maybe minimize rotation of the OWB so it lasts longer.

The only late model RC nitro engine I've seen that doesn't use any sort of OWB (that isn't a bump start engine) is a kyosho RTR engine. I contemplated buying one just to see how it worked. My guess is that it's like a typical small engine like a weedeater that has little pawls that swing out of the way once the engine gets running. Kind of like clutch shoes swing out. They have springs on the pawls to hold them against notches on a pull-start wheel, but once the engine starts, centrifugal force swings them away.

It was either a kyosho or a thunder tiger I think... can't remember now.
 
To be honest, I'm not sure what the point of it is since I'm pretty sure the engines that have it have a OWB as well. My only guess is to lessen drag and maybe minimize rotation of the OWB so it lasts longer.

I say right on the money! :first_place: I researched the specs(a long while back) of the bearing and these engines actually are over their designed limits for overrun rpm.

BTW, Yes there is a owb too.
 
well I have it all put back together now, tomorrow I will see if I can get it running.

I just want to say thanks tp everyone who has helped in any way, it's nice to know if you screw somthing up you can go ask for help and not be called stupid (all of the time) :hehe::p:


AGain thank you guys a lot!:first_place::first_place::first_place:
 
W-D 40 wont hurt anything thats what I use as after run oil It disperses any moisture hence the name W=water D= dispersing 40= times they tried to get the formula right and finaly succeded!!!LOL Good luck the RTV should work..:D
 

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