FastEddys XB8 Build

the XB8 sucks, you wont like it. why not send it to me so i can sell mine with spares on ebay for a decent price.


<edit-my failed attemp to gain a 2nd XB8>

well i heard diffrent most i heard from really likes the buggy what kind of problems did you have??

none i just want another kick ass buggy for free ;-)

I was going to say "I thought you liked your Xray" CorradoPsi



(this post is mostly so I don't forget to whatch the build)

lucky bastard

how much for the buggy?
i might save for one.

I started to build the diffs today.
For the most part if you have ever built buggy diffs before just do what your used to doing. If you haven't, Here are some pics and remarks.

Everything was in the proper bags with no missing parts nor extras.
The Huddy tools are nice but I found myself using my Dynamite tools. I found the Huddy shafts to be to long for my liking. The fit is perfect and they are quality tools but It felt like I was flipping pancakes with a 6 foot spatula. I felt I had more control with shorter shafts. I may cut them down to be more to my liking.

The "O" ring was a perfect fit. The directions showed this as the first step. When the out drive is inserted it pushes the O ring out. Ill suggest that you install it after the out drive is installed. Don't worry if its not completely seated at this point.



Install the bearing on the opposite side of the 40T bevel gear. I wasn't familiar with these bearings so I removed the shield and inspected one. They look to be good quality and were properly greased.



Placing the washer over the outdrive will properly seat the O ring. Make sure to check that your not pinching the washer and its seated all the way around.



Install the pin to hold everything on place then slip the small bevel gear over the top. Set this sub assembly aside when done.





The next step is the same as the above steps except you will use the diff cup rather then the large 40T bevel gear. Once that is done you will install the satellite gears.

Several users have advised on not installing the O rings in the satellite gears on the front. This makes perfect sense. They are used to help restrict the movement of the diffs. This is best accomplished with thicker diff fluid if needed. IMO the O rings are just another thing that can wear out or come apart in the diff. KISS Keep I simple stupid. The less parts the better.

Here is a shot of the satellite gears one with and one without the O ring.



Place the satellite gears and washers over the cross pin and install into the groves on the cup.





Install the second set making sure the cross pins are fitted inside each other properly.



Fill the cup with silicone of the proper thickness for your setup. Make sure you let it set for a while so it has a chance to settle in properly. The diff here is just a tad bit low. I like to fill it to just cover the cross pins then a bit more. align the cup gasket. I like to rub diff oil on it before I align it. IMO It helps make a better seal and if nothing else it holds it in place for the next step.



Place the two halves of the diff together and fasten them with the 4 included screws. Be carefully and tighten them in a star pattern so they seal properly.



The two other diffs are built the same way.
*** Mark the diff once it is built. Is easy to get them mixed up. The only difference between the front and rear ids the weight of the silicone.

It took me around 20 minutes per diff to build. After building the first diff I found the fit to be OK. I added small shims over the washers and under the pins on the inside of all the outdrives. This probably wasn't necessary bit I'm a stickler for shimming end-play. XRay needs to get better labeling on the diff fluid bottles. The silicone weight was un-readable. I needed to study the bottles and cross reference the directions to know what the weights were.

great instructions ^ thanks...

I like the idea of the gasket. My Hyper 7 seals with just an O ring that surround the perimiter of the diff...a pain in the butt to seat properly.

hmm, now where have i see those diffs before??????????

I went with 5-7-1 on the diffs. I used this in my Storm and liked it.
Any one using a different combination?

I'm running the same, its works well.

also eddy, check ebay RIGHT NOW pdl racing is selling P5's for 219 BIN. i already picked one up.

Found it.
Great price. If I needed one I would be all over it.
Good find.

i dont need one either ;-)

Looking good eddy! I can't wait to get started on mine I am hoping it arrives tommorrow. What engine do you plan on using with it?

Front transmission.

Nothing difficult here its just a matter of following the directions.
After trimming off the extra plastic strip off of both the front and rear bulkheads I installed both the front and rear bearing and slid the bevel drive gear through from the inside of the bulk. Make sure the bearings are seated well. The kit was short 2 screws to hold the shock tower on. I had to dig into my extra parts and snag a few.





The next step is to secure the universal to the shaft on the bevel gear.
Make sure to use lock-tight. The universals are covered with thick oil from the manufacturer. I have found just like any adhesive that lock-tight works better on a clean surface. I recommend cleaning the universals and set screw with warm soapy water then drying them well. Its cheap insurance to keep the set screw from coming loose. I have an ultrasonic cleaner that make short work of this. This seems like a great place to show it off.



Slide the universal over the shaft and tighten. Make sure you hold the bevel gear from the back with your finger and push on the universal to eliminate any free-play gap while your tightening it. Check to make sure it doesn't bind after its tight.



Place the diff into one of the bulks and pay attention to the bearings. They must be seated in the grooves properly.



Place the two bulk halves together. Again make sure the bearings are properly seated and that the two case halves align properly. Secure the two halves with screws in the holes that are in the center from top to bottom.



Install the shock tower and the body mount with the remaining 5 screws. Be careful not to over tighten them. I found because the holes aren't taped and the plastic is hard that over tightening is easy to do. Watch for the screws to touch then snug them just a bit more. Make sure nothing is binding up when your done. Both the front and rear go together the same just use the proper diff, universal, and shock tower.

if i do get a xray like i (really really reallllly) want next year i will be using eddys build thread instead of the manual becuase right now hes got better instructions than I've seen anywere haha.

Alkyula,
The directions that come with the kit are A++++ except they provide minimal written instructions. They chose to use full color drawings that are right on the money.

Nitro 21 I will be using an OS VZB and most likely a THS pipe.

Awesome pics Ed... I still can't get my shots to look like that... Time for a new Digi I guess... The builds lookin good so far. Any tight spots in the diffs once assembled? I know they will breakin, & become smooth, but one of mine seemed a bit off... I pulled it back apart & shaved a very fine layer of plastic from the bearing holder halves in the casing, which seemed to free it up a bit. Just curious...