New RC what to do

[Greywolf74]

So I just went to the local hobby shop and we ended up with this quote.

What do you guys think ?

Anything I should change ?

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My first thought is, if you're planning on racing your son you guys are going to be racing two fairly different kits. If that doesn't matter to you then no biggie.

Next thought is on the Spektrum servo. Firstly, I dont believe Spektrum in general makes very good electronics with the exception of their airplane/helicopter radios. You can get a Savox SW1211SG servo for a few bucks less which not only has the same speed at the spektrum servo but it has about 75% more torque and is waterproof. While I dont think Savox servos are quite as good as Hitec servos they are great servos for the money. Hitec is very expensive typically.

While I dont think spektrum ground radios are terrible I dont think they are as good as their aerial counterparts. I personally would rather spend a few more bucks and get a good mid range Futaba or Sanwa radio. Also, if you're just running around a track and not truly racing you could save quite a few bucks by buying a good budget radio like the aforementioned Flysky Gt3b or Radiolink radios. Those are both good options. I have a Sanwa MT-4S radio but receivers are like $55+ ea so I only put those in cars that demand high performance. most of my other kits get the Flysky treatment. Theres a couple of mods you can do to the flysky radios to make them feel a little better too if you were so inclined.

Protek and Dynamite lipos arent that great and theyre waaaaay over priced. I wouldnt buy them. Buy Liperior, Zippy Compact, Turnigy, or CNHL G+ series lipos. Not only are they a lot cheaper they are also a lot better lipos.

The SkyRC charger is pretty terrible. Youd be better off getting 2x HOTA D6 Pro chargers.

For a little more money than the Hobbywing ESC/Motor combo you're looking at you can have a much higher quality Tekin RSX 10 Pro ESC and Tekin Gen 4 9.5T motor. Personally I think 6.5T is a little to hot for that kit. I think the 9.5T is a little better suited. If you still want a 6.5T anyway then HERE is the link for that. Same price.

Haha okay I’ll check then , at first I told him I wanted a Tekin motor but he said it would be overkill for someone starting.

I understand his point but then again my goal is to have something that will last and I’ll be able to enjoy so

The Tekno kit is overkill for someone just starting out so his logic doesn't make sense to me. Sounds to me like hes just trying to sell you what he wants to move. By the kit being overkill for a beginner I just mean its a full blown high quality race kit. Putting a Hobbywing system is a Tekno kit to me is like putting a Sunpow brand engine on a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower. doesn't make any sense to me to buy a high end kit and put middle of the road electronics in it. Buy Tekin, Castle, or some other high quality race brand to put in it. just my

 

[krimy123]

Would that be a better combo ??? Or I can look at other price point ?

 

[Greywolf74]

5.5T is too high of a kV rating. 6.5T is the highest that Teknos website suggests for that kit. Again I think that 6.5T is just to low of a turn rating. I think 8.5T or 9.5T would be a better bet but thats just me.

 

[krimy123]

Would that be a better combo ??? Or I can look at other price point ?

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I actually have no idea what type of T I should be looking for.

5.5/6.5/7.5/8.5/9.5

Is higher better or lower better ?

 

[Greywolf74]

I actually have no idea what type of T I should be looking for.

5.5/6.5/7.5/8.5/9.5

Is higher better or lower better ?

Lower the T (turn rating) the higher the RPMs per volt which means faster but at some point you're going to run in to overheating issues once your Turn rating gets to low. The higher the RPM (or kV rating in 4 pole motors) the faster it is but the faster it is the less torque it will have. The less torque it has the hotter its going to get and the faster it will get hot also. The trick is to find a sweet spot in terms of motor turns/kV and then you can tweak for more speed or more torque through gearing. Does all that make sense? Its a lot to wrap your head around at first.

A 6.5T motor is a really fast motor, I'm not an expert with 1/10 scale truggies but my gut tells me that Id probably be looking at something more along the lines of 8.5 or 9.5T. It will be more bash friendly but still be fast. Tekin makes all those turn rated motor so if you want to pick one thats 8.5T or whatever they make one.

 

[krimy123]

Okay , I was just watching a YouTube video of someone using a 5.5 in this buggy , but then again this guy knows what he is doing hahaha

So a 8.5 would be a decent middle ground as far as speed / torque goes and if I wanted to upgrade in the long run it would be to a 7.5 or 6.5 ?

 

[ahr43]

You'll also need to budget for wheels and tires. Those were not included on the quote unless I missed them.

And paint for the body. That's going to put you over the $3000 Canadian mark.

Just so you'll know in advance. The cheapest part of RC racing is buying the car. Once the car is on the track, it gets progressively more expensive. 'AC'

 

[krimy123]

Yeah I did go over my original budget quite alot , but I figured , screw it might as well go all in hahah

I'm looking at Hitec Servos , but They don't seem to display any information or numbers are whatever hahah , so I'll look on the website , but what should I be looking into ??

 

[krimy123]

I just made this instead of what they proposed to me at the store.

Would that be better ???
As far as batteries they don't seem to have any of those mentioned previously
they have : Dynamite, gensacearespammers, Spektrum, Traxxas, Venom and Protek ( at least from the website that's what I saw )

As far as the charger goes , they do not seem to hold the one I've been told on here , and I can't seem to find a store in Canada that has it .... so I tried to get something halfway decent but yeah.

 

[kistner]

This is a pretty minor point, but you might want to pick a single battery connector for you and your son. His Rustler will come with a Traxxas connector. You have batteries in your cart that are xt60 and Dean's/t style. Plus you're going to need a soldering iron, solder, etc. Whatever connector you decide to go with you'll want spares.

Personally my favorite connector is ec5 (and ec3). But I've yet to find batteries that come stock with them. My prior favorite was Dean's but I find them a pain to solder. I think they are all pretty decent except maybe the old Tamiya connectors.

 

[krimy123]

okay I didn't even know there were different types of connector haha , I just thought that it was all "plug and play" but I guess I'll have to pay attention to that as well

 

[krimy123]

I’m wondering if a servo can be “too much” like tekno are saying to get at least a 180 with the kit … is 360 just too much ? Can it cause issues in the long run ?

 

[WickedFog]

I’m wondering if a servo can be “too much” like tekno are saying to get at least a 180 with the kit … is 360 just too much ? Can it cause issues in the long run ?

Nope. It is overkill, but you'll likely never break it. If the servo fits your budget, get the fastest one you can get, with the most torque.

 

[krimy123]

Okay and should I get the “speed” one or the “torque” one , since Tekin have both , I figured that for racing , speed is probably better , but I can’t really find any difference between both lol

 

[WickedFog]

Definitely speed. Even that speed servo has way more torque than you need.

I am trying to understand why you are limiting your selection by buying everything from one place.

I am also trying to understand the need for a 4 port charger. You are just getting an inferior charger, with more ports. Since you are just getting into the hobby, a 2 port will be fine. And the Hota charger is sooo much better than the chargers you have been thinking about. It not only has better specs, will charge bigger packs faster, is way more future proof, but it also has way more features. You can buy it from racedayquads.com for a damn good price. So if you're dead set on 4 ports, buy two of them. I am sure they will ship to Canada.

As far as the 6.5T motor, as mentioned by Grey, who knows more about motor/esc combos than maybe anyone here, I would probably not want to push the limit of the capabilities of an expensive motor/esc combo. I would step up to an 8.5T or 9.5T combo, and just gear it accordingly. Speed isn't made in just your motor selection. You buy a motor meant for your application, and gear it for the speed/acceleration you are after. On the other hand, pushing the limit of the motor's capabilities is going to limit you in gear selection, because on the taller gearsets, such as your 17t pinion (possibly), it may cause excessive heat in the electronics.

 

[krimy123]

Honestly I was limiting myself at that one place simply because if there were any issues afterwards it was easier to go to and deal with it.

Since I have never bought anything even close to a tv and this one I am willing to invest a “decent” amount of money I just wanted to have a place that if for some reason I were to have any issues I could just go to and talk to them.

I was also thinking about the few comments on “what my local hobby shop has in store”. But yes I could expand my searches and order stuff online. I am not against it , it was simply for easier after sale services.

 

[Greywolf74]

Okay , I was just watching a YouTube video of someone using a 5.5 in this buggy , but then again this guy knows what he is doing hahaha

So a 8.5 would be a decent middle ground as far as speed / torque goes and if I wanted to upgrade in the long run it would be to a 7.5 or 6.5 ?

I'm not saying you can't run a 5.5T but Teknos website lists the recommended turn rating at 6.5, 7.5, and 8.5. 8.5T & 9.5T are probably what Id go with since I wouldnt be looking to do any competitive racing with it. It will be plenty fast, it wont run as hot so the motor will last longer. If you find that the motor runs cool and you want more speed out of it you can always gear it a little taller and make up for some of the kV (or RPM) difference. Speaking of heat if you dont have an IR Temp gun you'll want to grab one of those. Motor shouldnt go above 170F, ESC limit for me is about 160F and LiPo temps not more than about 140F.

Only other thing to add is Id buy a range of pinion gears to play with for the sake of adjustment. Id get 5 or 6 different pinions that all have a difference of 2 or 3 teeth on them so you can fine tune your build. Soemtimes you can even find sets already packaged together. Just food for thought.

I just made this instead of what they proposed to me at the store.

Would that be better ???
As far as batteries they don't seem to have any of those mentioned previously
they have : Dynamite, gensacearespammers, Spektrum, Traxxas, Venom and Protek ( at least from the website that's what I saw )

As far as the charger goes , they do not seem to hold the one I've been told on here , and I can't seem to find a store in Canada that has it .... so I tried to get something halfway decent but yeah.

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If you are dead set on buying all of your parts from a local brick and mortar and not ordering anything from the internet then Id at least buy the Gens_Ace Adventure pack. Out of all of the LiPos I've tested, and the ones youve listed, the only Gens packs that tested decently were the Adventure packs. Theyre way overpriced for what they are though.

I would still urge you to at least order two of the HOTA D6 Pro from RaceDayQuads (the link I originally provided) or you could pay a little extra and order them off of Amazon.CA. They are a lot more powerful than the Hitec X4 or the SkyRC x4. The Hitec is going to have nicer firmware and better build quality. As for the specs between the 2 chargers, they are about the same so thats gonna be a judgement call on your part. Given how much money youll have wrapped up in lipos though I would pay a little more and get the Hitec x4 or two of the HOTA D6 Pros. Honestly you probably dont even need a quad charger and you could probably get along just fine with a single dual port HOTA D6 Pro without issue but again thats a judgement call on your part.

This is a pretty minor point, but you might want to pick a single battery connector for you and your son. His Rustler will come with a Traxxas connector. You have batteries in your cart that are xt60 and Dean's/t style. Plus you're going to need a soldering iron, solder, etc. Whatever connector you decide to go with you'll want spares.

Personally my favorite connector is ec5 (and ec3). But I've yet to find batteries that come stock with them. My prior favorite was Dean's but I find them a pain to solder. I think they are all pretty decent except maybe the old Tamiya connectors.

Kistner brings up a solid point too about connectors. This stuff isnt plug and play in terms of connectors. you're going to have to decide which ones you want to use and youll have to solder connectors on all of your electronics. LiPos, ESCs, and motors assuming that they dont already come with what you want. Traxxas connectors are garbage IMO, Out of the handful of main connector types you can pick from they are probably the worst in terms of current handling. Also the new Traxxas LiPo and chargers come with a proprietary connector that locks you in to using Traxxas brand LiPos and chargers.

The most widely excepted connectors being used are XT, EC, and Deans. XTs and ECs come in different sizes. Bigger connectors for bigger amp loads (read bigger kits like 1/8 scale and 1/5 scale). XTs come in XT30, XT60, and XT90. ECs come in EC2, EC3, and EC5. Deans only come in one size. For 1/10 scale You could use XT60 or EC3 but most people I believe tend to go ahead and run the bigger XT90s and the EC5s so they maintain compatibility with their LiPos and bigger kits. I would probably urge you in the direction of the bigger connectors just for the sake of future proofing. XTs are easier to solder up than ECs although once you get the hang of doing the ECs I find them to be a better connector than XT. If you go with the ECs then make sure you pick up the EC3 or EC5 punch that they sell to make inserting the bullets in to the housings easier. Its not necessary but to me its worth the extra few bucks.

That being said Deans are pretty much still my favorite connectors out of the 3 types. Deans is an older plug type and used to be the main go to connector for most folks but in recent years a lot of people have shifted to using XTs or ECs. Theres a whole thing about why that is but I'm not going to get in to it here. Just know that if you want compact and capable connectors then Deans is the route to go. That being said Deans connectors are heavily copied and sold but they lack the current capabilities of the original Deans Ultra Plugs so dont buy anything but the originals if you're going to go with Deans.

I’m wondering if a servo can be “too much” like tekno are saying to get at least a 180 with the kit … is 360 just too much ? Can it cause issues in the long run ?

No such thing as a servo thats too strong or too fast imo. If you find that a servo is a little unruly there are settings in digital radios like End Point Adjustments and Dual Rate to tame it down to whatever level you need it to be at. It wont hurt anything though.

 

[krimy123]

Wow okay , thanks a lot Greywolf for all of those info.

I guess I will just get the kit / motor esc / servo from the store then , and order the rest of it on the website. That way Ill be able to get the exact things you guys are mentioning and it would be a better car at the end of the day !

 

[Greywolf74]

Wow okay , thanks a lot Greywolf for all of those info.

I guess I will just get the kit / motor esc / servo from the store then , and order the rest of it on the website. That way Ill be able to get the exact things you guys are mentioning and it would be a better car at the end of the day !

NP man, glad to help. I will just quickly add that I dont run a lot of 1/10 scale buggies and truggies so I'm taking an educated guess based on other 1/10 scale off road kits that I have. 1/10 scale truggies arent very common in the first place due to a lack of race class for them at a lot of tracks. Feel free to try a 6.5 or 7.5T motor, you can always gear it shorter and by all accounts on Teknos website those are the recommended turn ratings so take my advice on the 8.5 or 9.5T with a grain of salt.

P.S. I meant IR temp gun in my previous post lol

P.S.S. If you do end up buying one or two HOTA D6 Pros just know that you can eventually get a DC power supply to run them off of and you'll get even more power out of it then it will have running on AC. Just an FYI, in case thats something you ever care to do.

 

[krimy123]

Will do , and yeah a lot of people have told me that truggies racer are pretty "uncommon" to the point where I am wondering if I should go the buggy route , same exact setup just get the EB instead of the ET ...... I guess the main difference is that the truggy can do a bit "more" as far as if I were to do small bmx tracks here with my son and could take a bit more "abuse" or is it really just the look of the buggy that is the main difference ?