Thank you all for comments and data. My clutch broke also and I'm wondering if it is because of that locking differential. I was testing and tuning and the front wheel locked up and noticed that pin stuck into the wheel cup. What a horrible design. Is there a different drive shaft I should be using, or do they all have that locking pin on the end, susceptible to coming out?
I had the old style clutch that was a clamshell with msj flywheel. All the clutches I see now are two or three pin and work like slipper clutches. So that MSG flywheel is pretty much worthless now? If I'm correct, I need to go to a two or three pin flywheel. This motor has so much power, I don't think it really matters what material clutch I use. Any suggestions would be helpful. I see many aluminum type clutch shoes on eBay. I also believe my old clutch was part of tuning problem.
If one wanted to build this Rc dyno, exact dimensions. 20.25" wide, 23.25" long, 5.5" tall, then 4 rollers are mounted 2" above drawer. Rollers are 1.38" or 35 mm diameter. Rollers tip to spring loaded shaft tip, 21.5", roller itself is 19.5" long. First roller to rear 4th roller is 16 5/8" center to center. 2nd roller and 3rd roller are 4.25" apart from 1st and 4th roller. Obviously tire diameter will affect roller distance. EK4 stock tires are 6.25" tall.
I have attached some pictures of the Rc Dyno as requested, not really a dynomometer, just rollers. The rollers look very similar to what would be on some type of assembly line. They have spring loaded tips so you can adjust the distance in between. It also has a nice drawer to put all your rc goodies in. No name of any kind or logo. One could make something similar. It works very well for testing, as you can see the smoke change, and see/ hear the power change in motor. Adjustments can be done with self holding the truck and one hand on transmitter, however two people would be ideal. One could get 2 small gauge chains and attach to the rear chassis so it doesn't move. The stock bungees were worthless.
One more question, is that 3 ch FlySky GT3B radio I see everywhere decent? I know it's cheap, but almost everything now is made in China, and then prices are jacked up with companies Branding.
I had the old style clutch that was a clamshell with msj flywheel. All the clutches I see now are two or three pin and work like slipper clutches. So that MSG flywheel is pretty much worthless now? If I'm correct, I need to go to a two or three pin flywheel. This motor has so much power, I don't think it really matters what material clutch I use. Any suggestions would be helpful. I see many aluminum type clutch shoes on eBay. I also believe my old clutch was part of tuning problem.
If one wanted to build this Rc dyno, exact dimensions. 20.25" wide, 23.25" long, 5.5" tall, then 4 rollers are mounted 2" above drawer. Rollers are 1.38" or 35 mm diameter. Rollers tip to spring loaded shaft tip, 21.5", roller itself is 19.5" long. First roller to rear 4th roller is 16 5/8" center to center. 2nd roller and 3rd roller are 4.25" apart from 1st and 4th roller. Obviously tire diameter will affect roller distance. EK4 stock tires are 6.25" tall.
I have attached some pictures of the Rc Dyno as requested, not really a dynomometer, just rollers. The rollers look very similar to what would be on some type of assembly line. They have spring loaded tips so you can adjust the distance in between. It also has a nice drawer to put all your rc goodies in. No name of any kind or logo. One could make something similar. It works very well for testing, as you can see the smoke change, and see/ hear the power change in motor. Adjustments can be done with self holding the truck and one hand on transmitter, however two people would be ideal. One could get 2 small gauge chains and attach to the rear chassis so it doesn't move. The stock bungees were worthless.
One more question, is that 3 ch FlySky GT3B radio I see everywhere decent? I know it's cheap, but almost everything now is made in China, and then prices are jacked up with companies Branding.
NT, Thank you. I know you went through a complete rebuild. Didnt you change the drive shafts and if so, do they still have locking pins susceptible to coming out and locking up the wheels. Maybe you can give me the part you ordered for your front/ rear drive shafts, and if you did change them, and if they will work with my EK4 front diff and MSJ rear diff. Thanks. I'm sure you could tell me what I need to change, and what could stay stock. I'd hate to put more time into this, only to learn 3 steps from now I should have changed another part first . So any advice you have is appreciated. Even if you think I should get a completely different rig that is more modern and not susceptible to break, or if I I can just modify this one. Thanks!Its Murphy's Law: RC's only lose signal at full throttle. Sorry to hear about your rig. Look on ebay for your parts first. If you can't find parts specific to EK4, look for
EB4 S2 suspension parts. They're identical. In the meantime ill try to dig up part numbers.
The front of the chassis is supposed to have a slight bend like that.
View attachment 17824 View attachment 17823 I dug up some old info I had. This is how mine is set up. Damn can't get the bottom page on top. Lol. Read the bottom page first. I hope this helps.
Try this
Iv had the same problem with FM futaba radios. I have a spring attached to the servo horn that pulls the servo horn to close the throttle if the radio dies. Sorry about your wreck.
That dyno looks way cool. How does it work? More pics! I'd like to see how it works.
Thanks
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