traxxas t maxx wont start when warm

[kristoffer]

i have a traxxas t-maxx with a 3.3 engine that won't start when hot, starts right up once it cools down for a few minutes. I use 16% fuel

 

[remote uncontrol]

Welcome you should be able to get help soon. This is a great place you’ll enjoy it

 

[tudordewolf]

i have a traxxas t-maxx with a 3.3 engine that won't start when hot, starts right up once it cools down for a few minutes. I use 16% fuel

Kind of sounds like it's worn out and lost compression. Normally they're very tight when cold and start more easily warm, but if it starts easily cold and then stalls once it gets up to temp, it's probably because it loses compression once the engine warms up and the sleeve expands slightly.

 

[kristoffer]

I don't think it loses compression, it runs well until I either run out of fuel or stop it.

 

[gandalfnz]

If its an older engine, been used a lot, not out of tune and hasn't done that before then its worn like @tudordewolf said.

 

[tudordewolf]

I don't think it loses compression, it runs well until I either run out of fuel or stop it.

If it stays running that's a good sign, but difficulty starting hot still suggests it's nearing the time for a sleeve replacement or at least re-pinch

 

[cbaker65]

I have a couple of engines that run like that ,they run real good even through a whole tank
an stay running ,they are old an worn out ,but I really dont run them after the first tank!

Although the sleeve loses its pinch ,the rod could be sloppy as well an can cause premature
detonation making the engine hard to start!

 

[Nitroman7888##]

i have a traxxas t-maxx with a 3.3 engine that won't start when hot, starts right up once it cools down for a few minutes. I use 16% fuel

Need a new sleeve and piston most likely. The 16% is t good for the 3.3..it is for all intents a .21 engine which is mid block n they usually require a 20-25% nitro content, 11-14-% synthetic or bash blend, if the engine is tight and no leaks and u verify pinch etc and is stalling when hot it’s because the brass sleeve has reached the tolerance for the required compression the taper fit is achieved with pinch and once it is gone it’s done. There r options. Take ur piston to a machinist if u know 1, basically tell him to cut an upside down 7 almost like 22.5 degrees off horizontal on the sides of piston from skirt to top of piston. The groove will hydraulically pull fluid to top and use it to create compression,
Liquid cannot be compressed lol but can be used to seal…replace piston/sleeve, buy a sleeve pinch tool/.kit or research making 1…have done all mentioned, all work, how long??! Idk…i usually go with fresh rebuild, replace bearings, piston, wrist pin, sleeve and rod, check crankshaft, and clean , polish block, crankshaft backplate etc install new bearings reassemble and break in..enjoy. Next time run rich, if u don’t see smoke ur way lean