This is why I no longer run Tamiyas

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I've got over a dozen RCs. Only one hasn't broken (not counting the crawler in this) & that's my Infraction 3s. I've beat the brakes off that thing & it just goes. All RCs break.
 
Boy, I really got that guy riled up. Butt hurt is such a terrible pain to deal with sometimes 🤣🤣🤣

I really love that there is not a single solitary period in his reply until the very end 🤔
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Tamiya fanbois just kill me 😝
TLDR version:
Old RC good, new RC bad, old Tamiya have more ground clearance than modern RCs.
 
This should be a meme right here with how often I've seen it, I even attempted to find a better alternative to help people who get suckered into TT02s.

Joe: I just spent $200+ putting together a TT02 kit, why doesn't it go straight?

Tamiyafan555: You need the $50 aluminum bellcrank upgrade.

Joe: Is there a cheaper alternative? I kinda got bills to pay...

Tamiyafan555: No I've been in this hobby for over 70 years and owned over 5 thousand RCs Tamiya are best because they're unique (proceeds to talk on and on and on about nothing).

Joe: (Lists TT02 on eBay so he can get his kid a Traxxas Slash).

Screenshot_20240521_143133_YouTube.jpg
 
This should be a meme right here with how often I've seen it, I even attempted to find a better alternative to help people who get suckered into TT02s.

Joe: I just spent $200+ putting together a TT02 kit, why doesn't it go straight?

Tamiyafan555: You need the $50 aluminum bellcrank upgrade.

Joe: Is there a cheaper alternative? I kinda got bills to pay...

Tamiyafan555: No I've been in this hobby for over 70 years and owned over 5 thousand RCs Tamiya are best because they're unique (proceeds to talk on and on and on about nothing).

Joe: (Lists TT02 on eBay so he can get his kid a Traxxas Slash).

View attachment 190488
$60, last I looked.
 
$60, last I looked.
Yea...it ain't worth it. I had a fancy TT02 Type S and neither the aluminum steering, better suspension arms, Tamiya aluminum servo saver, nor the digital HiTec servo could fix the steering.
 
Yea...it ain't worth it. I had a fancy TT02 Type S and neither the aluminum steering, better suspension arms, Tamiya aluminum servo saver, nor the digital HiTec servo could fix the steering.
Alright so I guess Ill just deal with that issue with mine since $ 🤔 upgrades don't fix it?
 
Yea...it ain't worth it. I had a fancy TT02 Type S and neither the aluminum steering, better suspension arms, Tamiya aluminum servo saver, nor the digital HiTec servo could fix the steering.
Oh, according to that moron you didn't assemble it correctly.
 
Oh, according to that moron you didn't assemble it correctly.
Lol, yea sure, it's totally not the lack of a proper "bridge" over the bellcrank system to keep things in place. Just look at the TT01E or any other on-road chassis.

Alright so I guess Ill just deal with that issue with mine since $ 🤔 upgrades don't fix it?
It's fun to try some cheap hack work on these, like gluing the servo saver or using a screw/nut setup for the bellcranks instead of wood screws.

But I wouldn't throw money at it no, you should just save up for a better RC.
 
Once I get my cars back. Ima get cheapo Amazon tires and put the aluminum wheels on. Getting a new body for it and I'll make it look good. For the shelf. Lol. Really don't have interest in it.

It was fun for like 4 battery packs and it got boring. Especially because I can't drive straight.

Took it through puddles and mud one weekend. Need a air compressor to get into those tight spaces to clean it up.

Cleaning is so much harder than an off-road car.

4tec 2.0 or 3.0 or fazer is what I was looking at. Ideally. Or find a used belt drive kit so I can race during the winter. Onroad track is closer and no tolls, while the off-road track is father away and has 2 tolls.
 
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Once I get my cars back. Ima get cheapo Amazon tires and put the aluminum wheels on. Getting a new body for it and I'll make it look good. For the shelf. Lol. Really don't have interest in it.

It was fun for like 4 battery packs and it got boring. Especially because I can't drive straight.

Took it through puddles and mud one weekend. Need a air compressor to get into those tight spaces to clean it up.

Cleaning is so much harder than an off-road car.

4tec 2.0 or 3.0 or fazer is what I was looking at. Ideally. Or find a used belt drive kit so I can race during the winter. Onroad track is closer and no tolls, while the off-road track is father away and has 2 tolls.
Just hose it off and don't plug a battery into it for a while. Let it dry out in the sun a few hours. Should be fine.
 
Cleaning is so much harder than an off-road car.

4tec 2.0 or 3.0 or fazer is what I was looking at.
That was my experience with all of my on-roaders, they get dirty quickly and cleaning them can take a while.

I'd go with a 4Tec 2.0 or a short wheelbase Fazer, that will keep your bodyshell choices open.
 
That was my experience with all of my on-roaders, they get dirty quickly and cleaning them can take a while.

I'd go with a 4Tec 2.0 or a short wheelbase Fazer, that will keep your bodyshell choices open.
Me and @luke66 are trying to figure out what body I should get. I was looking at hpi bodies but they don't fit. The hpi body was 200mm long and 255mm wheelbase vs my TT is 257mm wheelbase and 400 something mm long.

I was looking at these cheap electric air dusters on Amazon. Couple of my Mini Z buddies use them on their cars from the carpet strings.
 
Me and @luke66 are trying to figure out what body I should get. I was looking at hpi bodies but they don't fit. The hpi body was 200mm long and 255mm wheelbase vs my TT is 257mm wheelbase and 400 something mm long.
Some HPI bodies should fit, there are a fee that will fit a "TL01" which uses the same wheelbase as your TT02.
 
I guess bushings do have a place. 😂😂
I've heard that bushings are better for the beach, thing is, you're supposed to grease plastic bushings which ends up attracting dust...

On another note, I've owned and broken enough Tamiyas in minor incidents to say that video isn't an anomaly. The most painful was a Monster Beetle that broke something in every single outing, and they're not like other brands where you can just buy a cheap RPM part and be good to go.
 
I've heard that bushings are better for the beach, thing is, you're supposed to grease plastic bushings which ends up attracting dust...
You should be able to run plastic bushings without grease as they are self-lubricating but a thick grease actually prevents dust from getting into tight cracks.

Either way, bushings can be a good choice to reduce the need for maintenance on a non-racing vehicle in wet and dusty conditions.

I don’t think anyone has made RC car axles with cup-and-cone bearings and a grease nipple so you could drive out any unwanted substances and old grease with a grease press… Would be cool though.
 
With my tt02 build. With the plastic bushings in the wheel hub I had to put lots of grease to make it spin semi freely
 
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