Tenacity TT Pro keeps losing right rear wheel nut.

[ericriddle]

I have recently lost several wheel nuts from the right rear hub of my TT Pro. I even lost a wheel when it was flung out into the woods after coming off the truck. In an effort to correct this issue, I have replaced the inner and out bearing, the hub and the drive shaft assembly. To no avail, the wheel nut keeps coming off...and yes, I have started putting blue thread locker on it as well but it didn't stop the problem. I'm now thinking maybe there is something wrong with my rear differential. Has anyone ran into this issue? Any ideas on what else to try? I am at a loss here.

 

[islandlife]

Hex or hex area on wheel worn letting it spin the nut off?

 

[ericriddle]

Hex or hex area on wheel worn letting it spin the nut off?

I have replaced the wheel several times and only noticed wear on one of the wheels hex cavity. The hex itself in good shape.

 

[bill_delong]

Are you using a serrated nut? If so, has the sharp serrated edges gone flat? Chances are you may need to replace the serrated nuts with fresh ones that have more bite, even better to use a large flange nut to get more surface area to increase the bite:
https://klinikrc.com/shop-1/ols/products/klinik-rc-4mm-large-flange-serrated-titanium-wheel-nut-4

Once I found the proper serrated edge, it wasn't necessary to use thread lock anymore.

I also find it a good idea to re-tighten the nuts every battery cycle

 

[islandlife]

The worn hex cavity may be aggravating the problem, try switching that wheel to the other side

 

[Lumikko]

There’s inevitable play when the axle turns a pin that turns a hex that turns a wheel. These things have enough mass, torque, and wheel size to make it happen no matter how tight you crank the nut. And those hexes that clamp onto the axle with a screw? Yeah, not quite a hex after you tighten the screw.

The solution is to lock the wheel nut either to the wheel or the axle. Pick one.

My HPI RS4 followed this idea a long time ago: nyloc nuts with a flat surface against the wheel. When the wheel shifts in relation to the axle, it slips against the nut instead of trying to break it loose from the axle. Never had a wheel nut come loose.

My current buggy and truck have serrated low-profile nuts and they are non-nyloc. I actually put black grease on the axle threads to lubricate them. The nut retains its grip to the wheel and when the axle shifts ever so slightly in relation to the wheel, it isn’t fighting to break this grip. Instead, the axle threads are allowed to move a little inside the nut. Never had a wheel nut come loose with this setup, either.

I tried putting blue Loctite on the serrated nuts and soon had a wheel fall off. And I did clean the threads thoroughly before applying the threadlock.

So my suggestion is to pick one of these:

A: Nyloc nut, Loctite on the threads, smooth surface against the wheel

B: Serrated nut, no nyloc, no Locktite, clean and lubricate the threads. Ensure that the serrations are sharp.

 

[tntpoof]

try 1st new axle wheel nut . then progress to new axle shaft or whatever is on your rig. they do make low profile nuts you can always try

 

[biggman100]

I have recently lost several wheel nuts from the right rear hub of my TT Pro. I even lost a wheel when it was flung out into the woods after coming off the truck. In an effort to correct this issue, I have replaced the inner and out bearing, the hub and the drive shaft assembly. To no avail, the wheel nut keeps coming off...and yes, I have started putting blue thread locker on it as well but it didn't stop the problem. I'm now thinking maybe there is something wrong with my rear differential. Has anyone ran into this issue? Any ideas on what else to try? I am at a loss here.

Maybe i am just picky, but, all of my cars use Ny-Lok nuts, no thread locker, and, the nuts are replaced every 10TH time i remove a wheel. Doing that, i never have a wheel come off, but, every time i buy a used vehicle with serrated wheel nuts and run it without changing them, i always lose at least one wheel, every time.

 

[FJC_GUY]

Maybe i am just picky, but, all of my cars use Ny-Lok nuts, no thread locker, and, the nuts are replaced every 10TH time i remove a wheel. Doing that, i never have a wheel come off, but, every time i buy a used vehicle with serrated wheel nuts and run it without changing them, i always lose at least one wheel, every time.

I use Ny-locks as well but don't replace them as often. Since all my 1/10 stuff uses the same nut size I just have a bag of them I always take with me when running the trucks.

 

[RustyUs]

Glad to see the wheel nut debate still rolling along.