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banshee04

RC Newbie
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Well I recently purchased a revo 3.3 barely used, this is only my second nitro truck, first was the t-maxx .15 when they first came out. I pulled the revo out of the box earlier and it fired a couple times then died. After that I couldn't get it to start. I have the tank 3/4 full of traxxas 20%, I replaced the glow plug. The blue light on the receiver keeps flashing on and off? I can't see any fuel moving through fuel lines, but glow plug seemed wet and I pulled air filter and carb was wet. Any help would be great, I am a true clueless rookie. thanks
 
My guess would be either a clogged filter or you need to prime the engine with fuel...

To prime the engine you need to take the line off the exhaust and blow through it to get fuel to the carb. watch the line until you see fuel hit the carb then try again.. the blue light is just your reverse sensor.

make sure you have fresh batteries in your starter and glow ignitor as well..
 
You flooded it, remove the glow plug. Disconnect the fuel line and spin the engine over with the truck upside down until all the fuel blows out. Then retry it.
Do not move the throttle trigger past 1/4 throtttle while trying to start it. You'll flood it again.
 
Thanks guys, you were right I primed it and it fired up easily. I took the truck for a spin, I've got to say, I think I'm just excited now as I was when I had my t-maxx at age 14 ...lol...I think the 3.3 runs quite a bit stronger than the .15 though. It needs some fine tuning, I'm going to baby it for now because by the looks of it, it may not be completely broke in yet. I bought a set of aluminum integy a-arms and a few other goodies off ebay. What are these 3.3's going for? I bought this one for $200, figured I couldn't go wrong for the excellent condition...all stock off course. Thanks again for the practically instant/completely correct replies
 
ya i got mine for 270 only used thru 1/2 gallon
if i were u i would go with rpm arms instead of integrity bcuz integrity stuff tends to break, bend, or strip much easier than other brands
 
i payed 260 for mine but it was a 2.5r
 
Hey banshee a wrord of advise..if you plan on running the Revo the same way you run your BANSHEE dont get the Integy A Arms.. the aluminum looks nice and all but it bends. you want the weakest point to give instead.. I would strongly reccomend RPM nylons instead. They come in many colors and are actually lighter than aluminum and stronger... The only aluminum parts IMO to use would be the wheel carriers and shock mounts.. Good Luck Happy New Year!!!!!!!!
 
Alright thanks for advice...what about bumper mounts...the rear has a crack....should I put a stock back on? With aluminum that would probably just put stress on the chassis i suppose
 
Hey man sorry if your bummed about the A ARMS.. try them out, whats the worst that can happen?? The only reason i am against aluminum suspension upgrades is because when you crash 90% of the time it involves either the front or rear A ARMS. It took me a while to realize that aluminum is not the better choice. Although it looks good it is just not practical. In response to your bumper... you said it was the rear right? if so now is your opportunity to replace it with the wing mount.. or i would just run the stock bumper or RPMS... Again this is just my honest opinion. good luck keep in touch
 
RPM plastics all the way, the only aluminum the Revo needs is the carriers and the rear skid plate. Integy makes a nice rear skid plate, it's just like the stock one but aluminum. You can't break it or bend it by hand. I tried!lol
Oh yeah the steering bellcrank stuff needs to be aluminum.
 
+1 on the RPM arms, I have the RPM bumpers and arms on mine and they are very tough for when you choose to drive it like you stole it:D
 
The revo still doesn't want to start up. I noticed the idle was too high when I had it out the other day, do you think this is part of the problem? It doesn't seem to be flooded, there is fuel in the line to carb. After cranking it over and nothing..I primed it and it sounds like it wants to fire...have to keep turning it over and it will sputter then eventually fire. I ordered the tuning guide for it...do you think I would be best off just to make sure carb. settings are back to stock and go from there. When I have it running it never wanted to stall or anything. Just needed low end tuing, which was sluggish and idled down some.
 
What part of the world are you in? Weather changes will effect the tune of the engine, especially one as finicky as the TRX 3.3. If it's sputtering and sounds like it wants to crank but doesn't, try leaning it out a bit on the high side and try again. If you get the poppin' like it wants to turn over, it's getting both fuel and ignition, so, try givin' it a bit less fuel and see what happnes. Also, what kind of starter are you using? The stock traxxas one? If so, make sure you only bump it with like 3-5 second bursts. It will be easier to fire and it will prolong the life of your oneway bearing. If you need anything give me a shout.

Cheers,
Curt
 
Still nothing

Hi there, I'm stil having problems getting my revo 3.3 to run. It is very cold here in ohio so I have been working on it in basement about 60 degrees. I put it back to stock needle settings to be sure. Before the easy start kept cutting out, so I put it back to stock and it's better so it must have been to rich. I replaced the glow plug, both lights are on starter wand, turns over and just won't fire, tried priming it. Idle appears to be correct by the looks of carb. but when I turn over the tires turn...possibly slipper clutch is too tight. I turned flywheel by hand and can feel piston and has great compression like it should. I'm stumped here, I see no reason why is not firing, fuel is fresh also. Any ideas?? thanks
 
The clutch is broke, don't mess with the slipper clutch. Pull the engine, remove the clutchbell and inspect the clutch. I bet the spring snapped
 
would this keep the truck from starting?
 
I'm having the same problems with mine. The clutch is fine though. Not sure what else to do? It has been pretty cold though. And it probally doesn't help this is my first nitro car.
 
I pulled the motor and clutch bell, bell seemd to be turning freely, the spring and shoes were intact, however there was a small spot on spring where it rubbed a little, not sure if this was enough to create friction or not, I'm going to go ahead and replace with a 3 piece integy while I have it apart
 
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