So i pulled the trigger on 2 LRP ZR .28 engines for the twin titan

[sam_theman]

Really struggling to tune 1 let alone both. Starts like a dream but just wants to go. Got no control over the throttle or the brakes. The servo works although it's definitely not the best.
Will be an absolute beast when I manage to tune 'er up. The engine screams. I can really feel the difference from the old force .26 engines, and I've only got one of these running so far.
Not sure how to go about tuning though tbh, am I going to have to move the slide bars from servo to carb to close the low speed needle as I've screwed it in prior to fitting to approximately 1mm

 

[sam_theman]

Really struggling to tune 1 let alone both. Starts like a dream but just wants to go. Got no control over the throttle or the brakes. The servo works although it's definitely not the best.
Will be an absolute beast when I manage to tune 'er up. The engine screams. I can really feel the difference from the old force .26 engines, and I've only got one of these running so far.
Not sure how to go about tuning though tbh, am I going to have to move the slide bars from servo to carb to close the low speed needle as I've screwed it in prior to fitting to approximately 1mm

Super annoyed with this. I feel like throwing it in the bin rbn. Have had to alter the chassis cave manish I know. I've filed down the links to give clearance between the links and cards. The engine starts then screams it's head off and screws out the bell/clutch screw. Any help would be severely appreciated

 

[gandalfnz]

If the engine starts at high RPM, your carb idle gap is too big.
Remove the filter and re-check. Or post a photo of it pls?

Have patience, Nitro requires patience and is frustrating to begin with, but very much rewarding in the end.

Thanks

 

[sam_theman]

Fully appreciate your reply. I had set the carb before installation literally 1mm gap. I've been told it's sucking air. May put it in the shop tomorrow. It needs a professional to make it work and I am no professional, no disrespect ment towards yourself.
Engine 1 won't fit in the original plates/holes because of the carb stops the slide rail from opening or closing. The brakes come on but don't want to release. The air filter pipe hits the slide rail for the carb which can also cause it to stick.
Seriously appreciate your reply though, thank you !!!
Here's a few snaps hopefully you can see the struggles lol

 

[gandalfnz]

Thank you for posting pics.
A good way to tell if its sucking air from somewhere is to put your finger over the air filter neck, and try to shut it down. Once deprived of air, it should stop almost immediately. If it keeps running, then you got an air leak.
I find this hard to believe since its a new engine. Air leaks are a bit of a myth, we all worry about them by reading online, but I myself have learned unless major, they are not that big of a deal, and small air leaks are common, such as front bearing for example.
Why don't you try to reduce the idle gap further and then start it up again, it should calm it down.
Make sure your idle gap stays the same as you set it, and not increase once you turn on your radio gear, you RX/TX throttle trim could also be off.
Those are excellent engines you got there, while I do not know anything about that specific car, I can help with engine issues.
Good luck!
Oh, and another major thing I forgot to mention is LSN (low speed needle), is set to factory.
Make sure both LSN and HSN as set to factory as per the manual.
A very lean LSN will cause a high idle too.

 

[sam_theman]

My biggest issue is with engine location tbh, as it spins out the clutch/bell screw. I'd managed to calm her down by grinding down the slide bar location bit you can see on pic 2 (above) if you zoom in. But the engine moves with vibration and spins out that clutch/bell screw out and screams out

Could very well be the lsn I screwed it all the way in then released it to suit the car settings rather than change the car to suit the engines. I thought if I set it the same as the last one run I should be somewhere near as the last one worked (albeit only for a short 5 minutes). I think my safest option is to take her the shop and hope the boys can sort her out. I've spent too much just to have it sit there

 

[gandalfnz]

Why does the engine move with vibration? The bolts that hold it to the chassis (from the bottom) should hold it well. Are those bolts tight?
You need to sort this out first, it needs to be rock solid.

 

[sam_theman]

No it has to be engineered the engine/s don't just slot in

 

[gandalfnz]

No it has to be engineered the engine/s don't just slot in

Ah, sorry, I wont be able to help you with that.
Good luck, theres always a way, dont give up.

 

[alfredwong2003]

Your idle gap seems to be a bit wide. You can use a longer screw with thread lock and some shims for the clutch bell. It should be tight but allow the bell to move freely.

 

[dasrcparts]

I'm interested in a video if you ever get it running right!

 

[sam_theman]

I'm interested in a video if you ever get it running right!

I've tried posting a quick video of it before but can't upload it on here for some reason