Snapped Drive Shaft--thinking of upgrading

[Cupooterluvr]

So I was at the track today, and landing from a jump I lost power to my rear wheels, turns out the rear center shaft snapped in half at the outdrive cup. I bought some new shafts but I think they're the wrong ones because the hole is bigger.

Anyways, I was thinking now would be as good a time as ever to upgrade from cheesy plastic shafts to some nice MIP shafts or something similar--a nice set of dogbones or CVD's.

Would this be a good decision? I've got a small debt to pay off and after that I should get around 40-60 dollars every 2 weeks. If so, please recommend the best set of dogbones/CVD's.

BTW my slipper was too tight, at least the shaft snapped and not the diffs or worse, tranny gears.

 

[NCNitro]

I run Dynamite cvds on my maxx and they have held up to years of use. RD Logics makes them as well as mip. But that is definately a very worthwhile hop up for a maxx.

 

[frickenjoey]

I would agree it is a good upgrade....I had to on my Savage, I was twisting the driveline in half every time I ran it. Also....that .26 will break stuff in a T-Maxx man! LOL...but it is SOOO fun right?.....I would for sure save up and get a set....MIP is what I run now and have good luck with them so far

 

[Cupooterluvr]

What, in your opinion, is the best value (what Consumer Reports would rate "CR Best Buy") you know best quality for the money?

Was initially thinking of MIP, but now that I've got some leads I will research them.

BTW what's the difference between a CVD and a dogbone?

And yes, joey, the Picco is a sweet MOFO! The hubby shop guy at the track said it's too powerful though LOL

Gonna buy a new flywheel and clutch for the 3.3 for my backup engine and for the track.

 

[Five-Head]

Personally I've gone with MIP cvds for the front and rear outputs, and I have tried a couple sets for the center ones.

I would stay away from the ones Traxxas makes, the new ones with the anodized sleeves and the ball bearings inside the blue rubber boots. I've found on my T-Maxx that they actually fit a little too tight, especially in the front where the disc brake adapter fits in. The brake adapter for that set doesn't actually go around the CVD itself, it actually caps around the whole end of it where it meets the tranny. that tiny bit of space is what I've found actually throws the whole thing off a little. makes the system too tight and will actually jam up on you with quick accelerations. I went with the Robinson racing ones, they have purple rubber boots on them and have a ring-style brake adapter, which fits snug and doesn't throw off the spacing to your CVDs. After installing the RR versions I've never had a problem with them. I know you run a 3.3 (I run a 2.5) but I checked up on the dimensions and they are the same. Not to mention the RR ones are a little cheaper of you order them from Tower Hobbies. (god I love that store)

hope this helps

(edit) oh, dont forget to use a little bit of thread sealer on the set screws when you put in the new output yokes and the center CVDs. i once made the mistake of doing that on my E-Maxx and it completely shredded the plastics once they backed out and spun off haha

 

[Cupooterluvr]

So when I get the RR ones, do I have to buy a new brake adapter? The stock one uses a large blue ano'd hex nut and a metal disk.

EDIT: I could really only find the MIP ones, I looked on all the websites for both manufacturers and the main hobby stores. So when I get these, like said before, would I have to get a new brake disk or anything? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTT9&P=ML

The front and rear wheel axles are pretty beefy so there's no need to upgrade those.

 

[rckid91]

i did the same thing today but wasn't so lucky shaft is like swirled around but held up can't say the same thing about my diff it sqeelin and i think its stripped

 

[gravdigr]

read this before you get the MIP CVDs

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/cvd/tm-cvd-issues.asp

I know you run a 3.3 (I run a 2.5) but I checked up on the dimensions and they are the same.

Not if the 2.5 is using the older black transmission.

 

[frickenjoey]

read this before you get the MIP CVDs

Actually they were talking about the center drive shafts so the problem with shock travel limiting is not a problem at all. For the center IMO you can't beat the MIPs especially since they are rebuild-able for cheap.:yes:

 

[Cupooterluvr]

Will these fit the 3.3 maxx? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKSJ8&P=SM

They're slightly less expensive than the MIP ones and have rubber boots for the outdrives (definitely a plus!) Plus they come with a brake nut that doesn't come in the MIP set.

Also, any reviews for them?

 

[danketchpel]

I'd suggest you go with the most robust design with the least amount of pins etc. to wear or fall out. I ran the Traxxas CVD center shafts for about 1.5 gallons or so and had the rear fail when the pin hole in the cup wore enough to allow the pin to fall out. There isn't much material where the pin rides so it wears quickly and it doesn't take much wear to allow the pin to slip out.

I finally decided on a pure dogbone setup and made my own shafts out of Stainless Steel and bought a set of UE drive cups. I made my own brake hex to fit the UE cup.

 

[abadk9420]

I have the MIP CVD's through out all of my trucks and they have always worked well for me. I think you get what you pay for so if you buy cheap you get cheap IMO..

 

[jerry7007]

dont upgrade!!

dont upgrade just loosen da slipper clutch and poblemo solved!!!
all it is is that ur landing on an on throttle landing and the drive shaft is stressing to much cause ur slippa clutch isnt slpping so righty tighty lefty loosey!!!
:microwave