Ofna Picco 26 crappy carb. Any suggestions?

[Error401]

Ok, got to try out the modified 21BB carb on the Picco .26 this afternoon. All I can say is WOW. It didn't take 5 minutes to get it tuned and all the bad things I was bitching about are no longer a problem. This thing was screaming from full tank to dead empty, with the temps starting at 220 (full) to 260 (right before it sucked the last drops). Idle to WOT was instantaneous, as well as 1/2 throttle to WOT. No 1/2 throttle bog. Wheelies, that was cool, and some kickin burnouts. I am much more impressed with this mill than I was yesterday, too bad the stock Picco carb sucks so bad.

If anyone wants a How-To with Pix, let me know and I'll work something up.

Whitt....

 

[El Pirata]

Dude if you're blowing fuel out of your hsn then there's a seal that bad before where the leak is.

 

[Error401]

Guess you could say I used the sledge hammer approach to the leaky fuel nipple (replace the whole freakin carb). But it wasn;t doing anthing on the mill in the box, so why not?

 

[imnotsure]

Originally posted by El Pirata
Dude if you're blowing fuel out of your hsn then there's a seal that bad before where the leak is.

i tried to convince him, but he was dead set on putting a new carb on there, but oh well, it all worked out.

 

[wdavidhicks]

I've read here (forum, not post) that upon receipt of a new engine you should count your screw turns in, then remove the needles, and lightly (oil?) the o-rings? Like shock oil or something?

And as far as the two washers on the HSN assembly on this Picco carb, it couldn't hurt to disassemble that and apply a delicate amount of an appropriate sealant, could it?

 

[Error401]

Originally posted by imnotsure



i tried to convince him, but he was dead set on putting a new carb on there, but oh well, it all worked out.

The main problem was the metal gaskets. Before I started in on the carb project, I pulled both needles and found the there was no torn O-ring on the HSN, or crap in any part of the HSN side of the carb. The o-ring was in perfect condition and seated properly. But every time I ran the thing, my outside filter on the motor saver would be soping wet with raw fuel at the HSN, it would also be on the side of the carb. I can see the point of using teflon pipe wrap, or a silicone based sealer on that area, but why bother if the mid range mix is so off that it pisses me off so bad that I don't want to run the truck? I know, change the LSN needle. Well, it wasn't included with my engine, or even mentioned in the included docs. Thanks to imnotsure, I learned about the little needle mixup at ofna/picco (mostly picco IMO since my Hyper 8 has been one of the best engines I've ever owned). So, therein lies the quandry. Spend another $10 on a part that should not have to be replaced, or do what I like to do and screw with it just to see what happens. Well, I took the second option since 1) I had the carb, 2) I wanted to run my truck, and 3) the 21BB carb is a crapton better than the picco carb (IMO) I'll probably end up getting the black needle and putting the stock carb back on, but it'll be at my convienence and not depended on the postman. If I had the proper tooling, I'd probably learn to make my own engines, or do some trick poop to the ones I have, but I don't, so I do what I can with what I have. I never said, do this to anyones engine, I just thought it would be cool.

One of my engine idols was a guy named Mike McKormic. He flew pattern and loved to blueprint his YS 1.20's. He was doing some poop to those mills that was unbelievable. Scarry power. There's a guy here in town that ports .21's. I've seen his work, and seen them run, and it's scarry. This was my first attempt at doing the same, and you gotta start somewhere.

Sorry if I sound hostile, I'm in the middle of watching LOTR2 and really got my hate on for some orcs.

Whitt...

 

[imnotsure]

I got my hsn and it is different than the one that came with the engine it is larger at the top of the needle and it has a different taper with a flat tip. The one that came with my engine is narrower at the top(the part under the threads) and has a different taper and it comes to a point at the end. Wonder if this has been my whole problem. It fits in the assembly better. The old one was too tight wonder if this is why I had problems with the oring ripping all the time.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

I really wanted a "super bib block" and the Picco .26 was on my mind like you don't know. I heard similar stuff like this on another board when it first came out so I waited. I really though I bigger disp engine wouls have a bigger sweet spot but I guess it just doesn't work like that. I am now going for the Sirio .27 to put in my AE BFT in mid Sept when I get it.

and I agree Error alum towers are for racing, but arms?