LRP engine in tmaxx 3.3

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Ahhhh it sucks I was so excited called everyone to come see the first run and bamm thing wouldn't move lol
 
Lmfao....unscrew one side of the shock tower, unscrew both drive shafts from the diff, and pop off just one bulkhead, ten mins and she's ready
 
Ahhhh sweet thanks for the tip doing it now Lmao thought u guys would enjoy it lol
 
Fixed it lol thanks for the tip here's a quick video of it at idle Just running. A. Tank through.

---------- Post added at 11:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:56 PM ----------

Frankenmaxx:
 
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so update I'm currently ripping the rc and damn the thing is stupid fast lol when I'm at a full stop and i hammer the throttle it bogs then stalls out does that mean its running to rich ? because when i take off slowly then i hammer the throttle it wants to fly lol
 
so update I'm currently ripping the rc and damn the thing is stupid fast lol when I'm at a full stop and i hammer the throttle it bogs then stalls out does that mean its running to rich ? because when i take off slowly then i hammer the throttle it wants to fly lol

I take it your still at break in settings if so then your running rich. How many tanks have you put through it?
 
Ahhhh poop really so hard to resist fml what should I do

Yah I know but taking your time with the break in process will reward you with an engine that will last a lot longer and perform better in the long run. I am sure you prob didn't do it any harm though. I usually Idle first tank through. Then just run about 1/4 throttle second tank letting it cool down between tanks also. 3rd tank 1/2 throttle bursts on and off tank 4 the same tank 5 you can start to get full throttle in short bursts. Everyone has there own way of proper break in I am sure others will give you there idea's also. There are threads on here with different break in procedures that will help you.
 
OK thanks hulkmaxx I appreciate it I'm gonna take your advice lol oh BTW the rc rips lol thanks for helping me build it
 
Take the hulks advice man!...I will add that between the cooling be sure to place the piston at bdc
 
Take the hulks advice man!...I will add that between the cooling be sure to place the piston at bdc

Thanks for adding in the BDC hotrod I forgot that LOL! Sleep depravation has that affect on a person LOL! Also it's a good idea to mark your flywheel with a marker where it's visible so you don't have to remove the plug constantly just to roll it to BDC.
 
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Best way to learn is to pull the glow plug and shine a light inside, turn the flywheel by hand until the piston is at it's lowest point of travel, at this point like hulkster said make a mark on the flywheel
 
The most crucial point in an engines life is the break-in, the hardest part of the break-in process is keeping the finger from pinning the throttle!

I actually used a screw driver and scratched the flywheel to mark BDC, that way when the Sharpie wears off its easy to tell where it's supposed to go.

Once you are done with break-in, put a new plug into it before you start tuning it for performance, as break-in is hard on plugs.
 
OK thanks guys will do that after work today and will update
 
@ochana. I currently have a ZR.32 in my truck and still have it at break in settings after almost a full gallon and still dont run it all out yet, its very very great to take a lot of time with a break in and let sit BDC just like the others were saying. it will save you a few hundreds throughout the years.
 
@ochana. I currently have a ZR.32 in my truck and still have it at break in settings after almost a full gallon and still dont run it all out yet, its very very great to take a lot of time with a break in and let sit BDC just like the others were saying. it will save you a few hundreds throughout the years.

MY ZR.32 didn't start to really open up until I hit around the gallon mark.
 

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