Is 300+ oz/in steering torque too much?

[Silent]

I thought I was ok with my digi Hitec 130 oz/in servo on steering, but I'm reading alot of guys using 300+ servos to steer these truggies, including the recent MBX-5T review on XtremeRC. Now, my buddy says the higher-torque servos will just drain the battery too fast. What kind of choices/luck have you guys made/had for steering servos?

Anyway heres a pic of my pro kit I just finished. I've tested it, but not raced it yet. Its got a new .21 OS V-Spec in it..........

 

[robmob]

I use an Airtronics 94358Z in my STR. It has 200oz of torque and is quick at .10sec using 6V. It is plenty for a truggy IMO.

 

[FastEddy]

If you arent having any issues with the steering torque why change it?
As far as power consumption, Yes it will use more juice. If you recharge or top off after each run or install a super high capacity battery it isn't an issue. If you just want to go bash for a few hours, it may not be the proper choice.

A lot of what you read in the mags about the super high end equipment is is for demonstration. If your a pro racer and live your life one race at a time its great stuff. You run your heat then bring the rig back in and maintain it for an hour or two for the next race.

The best product for one person may or may not be the right choice for another.

Nice looking rig!

 

[jon2]

Second the 94358 on the Steering of my SUT Pro. I would follow Ed's advise but for bashing something less or along the 200 Oz range would be sufficient.

 

[RushRC]

GO POWERFULL and use a LIPO RX PACK Cost bucks though

 

[beason]

i use a hitech 645 and it doesn't have near the power of 300+ lbs, all i do is bash but it will crank the tires around on a heavy savage, in the grass, setting still. plenty of power for me!

 

[Plaidfish]

it's all in how much dough you really want to spend to make it go.....sort of like owning a sports car...you don't need a car that CAN go 150mph in the blink of an eye....especially if you can't really afford it......these little toys are just like that....do you NEED a 150 dollar servo to make your wheels turn in .1 seconds no matter what?....some guys do but they pay a premium for it......and like Rush said you can go Lipo for the pack if you're worried about the juice running out...then you'll need a Lipo charger (80-150 bucks) probably a DC power supply for it too (40-100 bucks)....then you're radio may not send the signal fast enough to utilize the .10 sec transit time properly...so you're buying a new 300 dollar setup to make your 150 dollar servo work at it's peak....as you can see upgrading one part can afffect more than the part of your rig you're trying to improve......be happy with what you have until YOU notice the deficiency an the performance.....save your pennies while you have 'em and then upgrade when it's comfortable.......
sorry for the rant but I seem to be reading alot of these "should I upgrade" threads from people who are talking like they have all the money in the world to dump into an RC rig.......and I just wanted to give a case scenario on what happens usually so you know what you are getting into.....
'nuf said

 

[Silent]

I usually like the higher end stuff within reason, so I can only blame a bad run on my DRIVING instead of my equipment. <G> I didn't want to have to be recharging my receiver pack after every run, but rather hoping that the Ofna 1600 I put in there would last 2 quals and the 15 min main. (the lipo isn't main-stream enough for me yet).

The HS-5625 (130 torque) I put in it worked great in a touring car and even a 2wd 10th scale truck, but these truggy tires are incredibly huge, and just seem like they would put any servo under alot of stress, especially on a technical race track, with jumps, and the torque of these high output .21 engines.

Thanks for all the suggestions. The Airtronics 94358Z at 200 oz/in sounds like a good compromise between torque and battery consumption. (I can't believe it has that kind of speed too).

I wanted to go ahead and get a backup servo, cause I just know sooner or later (and probably right before a main) I'm gonna tear it out of there.

 

[sweetdiesel]

I'm running a JR 9000T in my brushless truggy. Specs are 320 oz of torque and .15 transit time. I purchased it because it cost only 5-10 dollars more than some of the 200oz servos, and I was tired of breaking $100 steering servos. I also wanted the steering to be bulletproof, not necessarily steer the quickest. Excess power usage is not an issue because they run off my 8000mah lipo packs.

Like others have said, it all depends on your application and budget.

 

[jetmechG550]

I run a 9000t on my buggy and I run the HiTec 5996TG 333 in/oz in my MBX5T. Steering is never in issue when using either of these and at about $115 you can't go wrong

 

[Silent]

I hear the 9000T mentioned alot. At the track tonight, the two truggy racers I checked with on their torque rating, BOTH said they were running 333, but their choice was the Hitec 5955. Matter of preference I guess, or maybe a local thing, but for racing it looks like these 333 oz/in beasts are par. I'll just recharge my receiver pack before the main, and see what it takes. One guy did swap fresh packs for every run.

 

[jetmechG550]

You can run your heats on one pack, usually they are only 5 or 6 minutes. If it's 3 I'll swap in a fresh pack for the third heat if I have been running a lot of practice or we've been getting a few extra warm up laps. Mains always get a fresh pack and the largest MAH capacity I have. At the RC Pro race this week I had so much time between heats I just topped them off between runs.

 

[rageworks]

I have a CRT pro with a Hitec HS-5955TG 330in.oz. for steering and a Hitech
HS-5525MG 128in.oz. for t/b. I use an Orion 1600mAh hump pack battery and
I can run all day on it bashing. I tried changing batterys after about 6 or 8
tanks of fuel, but when I check the used battery voltage it's still 6v. or over.

 

[racinalways]

is it too much

i run a hitec 5955tg on my steering of my truggy and my buggy the specs are like 308 oz at .17 or .18 at 6.0 volts. i run a 1600mah rx pack i just top off between heats and the main.we run 20min. mains and i have noooo problems with the pack dying ever..that servo is absolutely bulletproof also.

 

[Dooley]

I'm running a JR 9000T in my brushless truggy. Specs are 320 oz of torque and .15 transit time. I purchased it because it cost only 5-10 dollars more than some of the 200oz servos, and I was tired of breaking $100 steering servos. I also wanted the steering to be bulletproof, not necessarily steer the quickest. Excess power usage is not an issue because they run off my 8000mah lipo packs.

Like others have said, it all depends on your application and budget.

The 9000T is what I run now also and I like it!

 

[razzor]

The minimum for a truggy should be a 200oz but if you can afford it the more torque the better.
makes a world of difference when you racing compared to bashing around.

 

[ToRqUe1]

can i use a old stadium truck servo that was in a electric truck and put it into my (nitro) hellfire ?

 

[jetmechG550]

What servo is it? Truggy steering servo's need lots of torque

 

[big red rr]

I thought I was ok with my digi Hitec 130 oz/in servo on steering, but I'm reading alot of guys using 300+ servos to steer these truggies, including the recent MBX-5T review on XtremeRC. Now, my buddy says the higher-torque servos will just drain the battery too fast. What kind of choices/luck have you guys made/had for steering servos?

Anyway heres a pic of my pro kit I just finished. I've tested it, but not raced it yet. Its got a new .21 OS V-Spec in it..........

I recommend the futaba bls451 coreless brushless its got 206 oz at 6.0 v, its plenty strong and i think its the best on the market, I've tryed the 5995tg from hitec and the airtronics and futaba is the sh$#! its pretty pricey but you can get em on ebay for 1/2 price.its worth it though.

can i use a old stadium truck servo that was in a electric truck and put it into my (nitro) hellfire ?

i wouldnt , theres probably not enough tork.