How to counter the speed reduction after installing portals to a Ryft?

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Looks like it was built entirely out of aftermarket parts... Maybe the axles are stock. Anyway, crawlers are very configurable (it's not uncommon to run different axles on a chassis or mix and match).
 
Looks like it was built entirely out of aftermarket parts... Maybe the axles are stock. Anyway, crawlers are very configurable (it's not uncommon to run different axles on a chassis or mix and match).
I was going to say the same thing. A lot of crawlers you see are mutts 😄
 
Ok, I remember you are new, so I'll try to explain how this all works. If any of this confuses you, let me know.

An ESC has a built in battery eliminator circuit (BEC). This is basically a voltage regulator to deliver the correct voltage to your receiver (Rx) and servos. Say you had a 3s battery and no BEC. That would destroy the Rx and servos with too much voltage. So a BEC is there to fix that.

Servos also require a few amps when under load, so your BEC needs to supply enough amps. So with two servos, yeah, your BEC may struggle at times.
View attachment 186118

To alleviate that, you can install an external BEC. A Castle 10a BEC should do nicely.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle-creations-10-amp-adjustable-bec-cse010-0004-00/p18210

That BEC is preset to output 5.1V, but can go up to 9v. If you have servos that can handle 7.4v or 8.4v, you would notice an improvement in servo speed and torque by simply setting the BEC to whatever your servos can handle. To change that you need the Castle Link.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle...usb-programmer-adapter-cse011-0119-00/p640839

You can of course just run your servos at the preset 5.1v, but I would personally want the BEC putting out as much power as my servos could take. What servos do you have in the truck? There should be a brand/model number on them.

To wire up the BEC, you will need to remove the positive wire from the ESC to the Rx. Here is the wiring diagram.
View attachment 186119
And I know you don't have an external ESC like that diagrsm, but you still have s cable going to the Rx. That will be the cable you need to modify. You also need to solder the positive and negative wores for the BEC into your battery harness.

And just a heads up... You don't have to cut that wire from the ESC to the Rx. You can gently press down on this tab and pull the wire out of the connector. That way you can slways reinstall that pin into the connector later if needed. Just make sure to tape it up good so it doesn't short out on anything.
View attachment 186120
Sorry didn’t see you asking about the servos. They are traxxas 2055 servos on both front and back.
 
Sorry didn’t see you asking about the servos. They are traxxas 2055 servos on both front and back.
🤢🤮

Just for the record... Traxxas servos are garbage. Those are really weak for a crawler. But drive it til they give out I guess. You won't need to alter the BEC voltage til you get better servos.
 
🤢🤮

Just for the record... Traxxas servos are garbage. Those are really weak for a crawler. But drive it til they give out I guess. You won't need to alter the BEC voltage til you get better servos.
Yaaaa…. Didn’t notice it said traxxas on it till I looked for the number. Bc it had axial sticker on top of each one. 🤦‍♀️
 
Yaaaa…. Didn’t notice it said traxxas on it till I looked for the number. Bc it had axial sticker on top of each one. 🤦‍♀️
Oh man. Someone was trying to be sneaky. Most people in this hobby knows Traxxas servos are crap.

There are cheap servos that will do the job, and there are servos that will cost ya your first born. The ones in between aren't bad. Just depends on your budget.
 
Oh man. Someone was trying to be sneaky. Most people in this hobby knows Traxxas servos are crap.

There are cheap servos that will do the job, and there are servos that will cost ya your first born. The ones in between aren't bad. Just depends on your budget.
Yea we’ll be looking into new servos for it once these crap out. Might be swapping out the links as well, to do away with the plastic tie rod ends and something more durable.
 
Yea we’ll be looking into new servos for it once these crap out. Might be swapping out the links as well, to do away with the plastic tie rod ends and something more durable.
Those plastic ends are common. Shouldn't be a problem at all. Kinda nice actually to have a weak link in the system in case you get a wheel in a bind too. Much cheaper and easier to fix than a diff or trasmission gear 😉
 
Those plastic ends are common. Shouldn't be a problem at all. Kinda nice actually to have a weak link in the system in case you get a wheel in a bind too. Much cheaper and easier to fix than a diff or trasmission gear 😉
Yea we know all about working with a bad diff. My boyfriend was having issues with one of his ryfts and ended up putting a piece of a certain ear plug in it? To keep it in place better.
 
Yea we know all about working with a bad diff. My boyfriend was having issues with one of his ryfts and ended up putting a piece of a certain ear plug in it? To keep it in place better.
Yup. Common hillbilly diff locker 😉
And actually probably safer than putting a spool (locked diff) in there because the earplug will cusion the blow a bit. Whereas a wheel in a bind with a spool and the motor in the Ryft would probably snap an axle. Ours has a spool in the center diff, and really heavy fluid in the front and rear diffs.
20220322_003102.jpg
 
Yup. Common hillbilly diff locker 😉
And actually probably safer than putting a spool (locked diff) in there because the earplug will cusion the blow a bit. Whereas a wheel in a bind with a spool and the motor in the Ryft would probably snap an axle. Ours has a spool in the center diff, and really heavy fluid in the front and rear diffs.
View attachment 186179
We actually ordered lockers for it…..😬
Should he not use them?
 
We actually ordered lockers for it…..😬
Should he not use them?
Well, people do it. It's going to make it terrible when turning if you have traction under the tires, like dense grass and such. But it will climb better. I'd stick to loose terrain like these are intended for. They do climb rocks, but most 1:1 rock bouncers you see like this are flying up dirt hills dodging trees and such. Rocks you see in the course are just ones left after all the dirt was flung down the hill.
 
Well, people do it. It's going to make it terrible when turning if you have traction under the tires, like dense grass and such. But it will climb better. I'd stick to loose terrain like these are intended for. They do climb rocks, but most 1:1 rock bouncers you see like this are flying up dirt hills dodging trees and such. Rocks you see in the course are just ones left after all the dirt was flung down the hill.
Is there a way to shim the gears in the diff that slide over the ends of the axel shafts. It seems that they do not fit tight enough to the spider gears and slips
 
That would require new axles and diff housing. Is that on your new one? Thats what I was meaning by a spool is going to be hard on things. That's the weak link. Might be time for an upgraded axle or internals.

I don't remember ours being loose. You could try wrapping the axle end with foil and see if that takes up the slop.
 
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IIRC my Axial Wraith had some slop there too. They don't fit in snugly. It came with plastic lockers I had to upgrade when I went brushless. Man, Axial stuff was crap.

This thread has become a history lesson 😂
 
IIRC my Axial Wraith had some slop there too. They don't fit in snugly. It came with plastic lockers I had to upgrade when I went brushless. Man, Axial stuff was crap.

This thread has become a history lesson 😂
Plastic lockers? Wow
 

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