How to counter the speed reduction after installing portals to a Ryft?

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dlcurry92

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My boyfriend and I recently bought a rtr axial ryft. He decided to take out the stock axles and install Vitavon axle housing, knuckles and brass portals. Overall pretty happy with it except for two things. First is the loss of speed, the portals reduced. Is there a way to counter that and get more speed with the portals on? And second issue, is with the portals we had to reverse the throttle of course but now we have to bump the trigger for it to go forward, like you would for reverse. Can that be changed so it’s automatic forward and reverse?
 
Take two of the motor wires and swap them. That will reverse your motor. That is as long as it's not sensored.

For the gearing, swap to a bigger pinion and/or smaller spur gear. Keep an eye on motor and ESC temps any time you play with your gearing. You want to keep your electronics below 160°F or so. So grab you a cheap infrared temp gun if you don't have one.

And welcome to RCT!
 
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Welcome in @dlcurry92 , I'm surprised the portals didn't come with a bigger pinion gear.
At least the portals I have used did.
As WF mentioned, when you change either one, keep a close eye on the temps.
The Ryft is a rock racer so it naturally runs hotter than a normal crawler.
These guys around here are more than welcome to answer any questions you might have.
 
Thanks for the quick responses! We’ll give the suggestions a try and hopefully get it to my boyfriend’s preference. He has another ryft and one rig we bought in this bundle off someone that is going to be my daughters crawler. It looks like someone was trying to put together their own ryft by buying all aftermarket parts. Not sure exactly how it will run when we put in an esc and a battery. I’ll post pics of it later to see what you guys think it is. Both of us are pretty new to all of this, so any and all help is definitely welcomed and absorbed!
 
Thanks for the quick responses! We’ll give the suggestions a try and hopefully get it to my boyfriend’s preference. He has another ryft and one rig we bought in this bundle off someone that is going to be my daughters crawler. It looks like someone was trying to put together their own ryft by buying all aftermarket parts. Not sure exactly how it will run when we put in an esc and a battery. I’ll post pics of it later to see what you guys think it is. Both of us are pretty new to all of this, so any and all help is definitely welcomed and absorbed!
Sounds good. We'll be here, and pics are awesome.

We love our Ryft. It's a heck of a kit. The only thing with it is I wish they gave it longer axles as it tends to want to tip over a lot.
 
Sounds good. We'll be here, and pics are awesome.

We love our Ryft. It's a heck of a kit. The only thing with it is I wish they gave it longer axles as it tends to want to tip over a lot.
Same with my Bomber, the very reason I don't care for it.
 
Welcome in @dlcurry92 , I'm surprised the portals didn't come with a bigger pinion gear.
At least the portals I have used did.
As WF mentioned, when you change either one, keep a close eye on the temps.
The Ryft is a rock racer so it naturally runs hotter than a normal crawler.
These guys around here are more than welcome to answer any questions you might have.
Take two of the motor wires and swap them. That will reverse your motor. That is as long as it's not sensored.

For the gearing, swap to a bigger pinion and/or smaller spur gear. Keep an eye on motor and ESC temps any time you play with your gearing. You want to keep your electronics below 160°F or so. So grab you a cheap infrared temp gun if you don't have one.

And welcome to RCT!
Do we just need to change the spur and pinions in the axles or the one in the motor as well?
 
One or the other actually.
Much easier to just change the pinion gear. Be sure use Loctite on the grub screw, vibration can make it become loose.
You can buy sets from amazon pretty cheap and they usually have a few or more different sizes.
As I mentioned earlier, I'm surprised the portals didn't come with a pinion gear.
 
One or the other actually.
Much easier to just change the pinion gear. Be sure use Loctite on the grub screw, vibration can make it become loose.
You can buy sets from amazon pretty cheap and they usually have a few or more different sizes.
As I mentioned earlier, I'm surprised the portals didn't come with a pinion gear.
Is there a recommended size to change them too?
And I’m not positive on if they came with them or not. We got a bunch of Vitavon stuff along with the different rc rigs in a bundle deal. Bunch of different Vitavon parts still in their original packaging. And some loose the guy didn’t get around to using.

Na, just go up on your motor pinion first, leave the portal gears alone, unless there are overdrive or underdrive gears installed.
That’s what I thought but wasn’t sure. Like I said I’m new to this stuff but have been doing some research for my boyfriend to help him while he’s at work.
 
Is there a recommended size to change them too?
And I’m not positive on if they came with them or not. We got a bunch of Vitavon stuff along with the different rc rigs in a bundle deal. Bunch of different Vitavon parts still in their original packaging. And some loose the guy didn’t get around to using.


That’s what I thought but wasn’t sure. Like I said I’m new to this stuff but have been doing some research for my boyfriend to help him while he’s at work.
I would read up on the axles you installed and go from there.
We couldn't recommend any off the top of our heads because we don't know what the gear ratio of the portals.
A set I would recommend so you can chose what speed you prefer.
Edit, I misread your post a bit, I would change the pinion on the motor itself.
Each tooth or two increase will increase the speed.
 
I would read up on the axles you installed and go from there.
We couldn't recommend any off the top of our heads because we don't know what the gear ratio of the portals.
A set I would recommend so you can chose what speed you prefer.
Would this set work?
IMG_1040.png
 
That all depends on the pitch of the spur gear is. It should show what pitch it is, it has to match.
The pic right there shows Mod 1 so look on the side of the spur gear and it will show you.
You also need to make sure the shaft size is the correct size.
Honestly to me, these look too large.

I pulled this off the net but it may help you understand. The spur gear has to match the pinion gear as far as the teeth.

There are a few common sizes we use in R/C, such as 32-pitch (32P), 48-pitch (48P), and 64-pitch (64P). There is also a metric variant on pitch, the module, and the common sizes there are 1Mod, 0.8Mod, and 0.6Mod.

The shaft on your motor should be 5mm if it's the stock motor.
 
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Those are Mod1 (metric gears). The Ryft should have Mod1 gears from the factory with a 5mm shaft size on the motor. So those gears you have shown there should work. But, if it has Vitavon gears, it's hard to say what the actual pitch is. As Tunedfrog said, it should have the gear pitch and tooth count stamped on the gears.

Whatever your current pinion is, I would go up a couple teeth, then grab another that is a couple teeth higher than that. Maybe a 3rd higher one just in case. Eventually though, your motor slot could run out of travel and you'll have to step down the spur gear size.

The best pinion gears are made by Robinson Racing. You can grab them on www.amain.com, or directly from Robinson Racing. Stay away from cheap Chinese or no-name brand gears off Amazon. Those you have pictured are a Chinese brand. The set screws are usually made of bubble gum 😉

Oh, and make sure you have one of these to monitor your electronic temps. There are lots of them on Amazon, so shop around.
Laser Infrared Thermometer Non-Contact Digital Temperature Gun, -58℉~1112℉(-50℃~600℃) IR Thermometer for Industrial, Kitchen Cooking, Automotive, HVAC (Not for Human Body Temp (don't shoot yer eye out)) https://a.co/d/0cSZgw4
 
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Those are Mod1 (metric gears). The Ryft should have Mod1 gears from the factory with a 5mm shaft size on the motor. So those gears you have shown there should work. But, if it has Vitavon gears, it's hard to say what the actual pitch is. As Tunedfrog said, it should have the gear pitch and tooth count stamped on the gears.

Whatever your current pinion is, I would go up a couple teeth, then grab another that is a couple teeth higher than that. Maybe a 3rd higher one just in case. Eventually though, your motor slot could run out of travel and you'll have to step down the spur gear size.

The best pinion gears are made by Robinson Racing. You can grab them on www.amain.com, or directly from Robinson Racing. Stay away from cheap Chinese or no-name brand gears off Amazon. Those you have pictured are a Chinese brand. The set screws are usually made of bubble gum 😉
The motor is stock I believe. The only vitavon on it currently is the axle housing and attached.

Now that my daughter has gone to her dad’s house. Here is one of her upcoming birthday presents we got her. So what’s y’all’s opinion or thoughts on this custom rig???
Oh and she’s also getting a scx24 white jeep Renegade.
 

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Awesome looking rig and extra bonus points for being green. ;)
I've looked all over and haven't seen any with y-links in the front and back like this one. Is this common or is there a reason someone would put together a rig with it setup like this one?
 
I've looked all over and haven't seen any with y-links in the front and back like this one. Is this common or is there a reason someone would put together a rig with it setup like this one?
The one you posted is more of a rock bouncer/racer more than a crawler. Very cool regardless.
I buy a lot of my 1/24 scale parts here.
We have a few guys here that have built and ran that style also.
I built one but didn't care for it so I put the parts into another build.
Everybody here knows I'm really into frogs so the green just fits. :D

https://www.rpphobby.com/
 

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