**GOOD** CDR Media??

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RobH

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I do a lot of system setups at my job. I buy computers, format hard drives, install operating systems, drivers, software, etc, etc. After I do this, I use a make a ghost image and burn it to a bootable CDROM. This then serves as a recovery CD when the computer is one of the other offices and someone decides it would be fun to format the C: drive because they think they have some virus that even Nortan Corporate Edition can't dedect. They only virus they really have is "Stupidity".

Anyway, I NEED good cdr media. I like to buy them 50 or 100 at a time. In the past it's been hit and miss. I found a product that really worked well (TDK 80min). I tried to buy it a second time, but they no longer sold 32x and I had to get 48x. The media wasn't blue anymore but goldish color. They totaly suck. If I want a good copy I have to burn at 8x. I just finished a box of 100 ugh!

I know you Internet monkeys out there love to burn your MP3s to CD. You, therefore, should have a wealth of knowledge when it comes to this topic. Share you CDR Media zen with me.

What do I look for when purchasing *good* CDR media? I perfer 80min CDs incase I want to burn some SVCDs or something. =devil

Thanks in advance,
Robert

Teac CD-W524E (24X/10X/40X, IDE, internal, 2MB buffer, buffer underrun protection) if it matters.
 
Here is the skinny,
Stay away from the bargains. Costco, Bestbuy, CompUSA ect purchase the NAME BRAND Front and End run product. The manufacturing process takes approximately 750,000 disks at the beginning of a run to adjust the media layer being laid onto the platter and around 200,00 disks at the end of the run suffer as well. A good amount of these disks are usable but not consistently reliable. This is a huge amount of disks. In the old days (3-4 years ago) these disks were trashed and never saw the light of day. Now that the media prices have dropped so has their profits. The Media Manufacturers are forced to sell them . They are sold for next to nothing to volume companies as a reward for making large purchases. Companies use them as a fly trap to get you into the store. When you pay .5- .10 a disk retail after rebates most people overlook the fallout rate.

In this day and age most consumer disks are used for music and backups of pre-existing software not mission critical data.

What disks to buy, and how to know they are good?

Its real tuff. First, if you want to use the disks outside your PC purchase the fastest disks available. 48-52 speed. The faster disks are newer and designed for use in your car or home audio / video equipment. Stick with a light color media, Platinum (Silver with a Super light green tint) These disks are also excellent for data. If you can't find platinum try a diamond disk. They are totally silver and show no pantie lines when burned to. These disks are designed for mass duplication but make it to the mass resale market as well. If a disk isn't 80 min 700mb DON'T BUY IT! 74 minute disks haven't been manufactured for 2 or more years and you are getting back stock.

Where to buy.

The age old question. With all the Internet specials and Retail stores pushing for profits you never know what you are really getting. The best place to purchase is from someone that uses the disks in quantity or a LOCAL company that will guarantee the integrity of the disks. I'm sure if you look in the phone book you will be able to find a duplication house close to you. These guys buy in bulk and rely on AAA disks. If you can't find a place near you like this contact me and I will help.

Branded or silver top disks,

Branded disks have a protective layer of paint on the top of the disk. Not only does this have a name and info about the disk on it, it protects the media layer from damage. Silver top disks damage much easier. NEVER USE A SHARPIE MARKER ON YOUR DISK. They contain acid that given time will eat into the media. Use special non acid CD pens or art pens. If you buy silver tops use a label. Stomper brand is about the only one that I trust.

Burning speed.
NEVER BURN AT FULL SPEED. It sure is great to pop them out at 52x but failier and compatibility issues will plague you. For data, only use 3/4 of your drives capabilities. For Music (.wav) no more than 8 speed. You will find the quality of your music more enjoyable.

I have simplified and glossed over all technical issues, added personal experience and left out many facts in this post. It is just to help our average CDR user make a good choice. I don't care to get into debates over preferences or defending my point of view. Take this for what it is. Just my opinion.

Last year I sold approximately 9 million CDRs to duplication factories in my aria. If you think its hard trying to buy 100 pcs and be happy, try selling disks to people and guaranteeing them less than 1% fallout. Any one want a job as a buyer?
 
I've used TDK for about a year or so and love them. I've had zero problems with them on other computers or even car audio systems.

-Michael
 
Originally posted by FastEddy
Here is the skinny,

I'm not saying that wasn't a great post, but that was the "skinny"?
 
Originally posted by nitro dave


I'm not saying that wasn't a great post, but that was the "skinny"?

Don't buy bargain or reduced price CD-Rs from a mass retailer.
Get only Platinum or Diamond disks from the non discount shelf.
You will get what you pay for.

If possible buy from a duplication house. They are dialed in on the good stuff at a great price.

Low fat explanation.
 
Well as for me I like the Verbatim (80min.) and as for my other uses I like to use the Memorex, just to let you know. XBOX's dont like 80min. cds they just kinda spit them out. As for me that is why i use the memorex, I have modified many XBOX's, and only one Memorex cd has failed me, and that was because i had scratched it really bad by accident.
 
I run Imation, but I'm a Mac user...so what do I know?

Plus I burn more DVDs than CDs...
 
Memorex, hand's down, is my winner. :D
 

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