Front Wheel Alignment - B74.1 - is there an easier way

[lamelogin]

Is there a better/easier way to setup front wheel alignment? I feel like I need more toe in, but how can I be certain??

Issue: I feel like I need to keep tweeking the steering on the tranmitter just to get the car to go straight. I did go back and tighten all the steering and suspension components in the front.

 

[DavidB1126]

Not really sure. @bill_delong can answer this better.
I use a normal camber gauge. But for toe I really just eye it.

 

[tntpoof]

when I ran my B44 I used graph paper .. I aligned the chassis up with parallel lines on paper
then I could get exact toe .still will work today better that a speed square and 2' sq.

 

[ahr43]

Can't speak specifically to the B74.1 lamelogin. But this is how toe gets set toe on my RCs:

I flip the chassis on its back and use the RPM Toe Gauge. Before flipping it over, the center-to-center on the steering links gets a check with a pair of dividers to ensure they are both the same distance.

Once toe is set, flip the chassis back over, install a charged battery power the car up and do a roll check without pinion. If excessive steering trim is needed to go straight, double check servo centering/servo horn install and re-do the process again.

Hope this helps and gives you an option to try. 'AC'

 

[bill_delong]

I used to use a setup station where I'll link a video below, in fact I'm willing to sell the exact same station if someone wants to buy it, but here's the method I use now:

I set the adjustable turnbuckle between the servo arm and ackermann bar so that it's perfectly center using calipers to measure/mark center of ackermann and center between steering posts. Then I make sure the thread lengths are identical between left/right steering turnbuckles. I will then track the car straight and eyeball the toe where I prefer anywhere from +2° to as much as +5° toe out depending on car and handling. This is a driver preference, there's no right/wrong setting.

I almost never go with 0° toe which tends to make the car bounce and lose control on jump landings. I will increase toe out if I need more off power steering assuming max steering throw isn't enough. Car should be able to do a figure 8 loop within a 3'x3' square for a 1/10 car and 4'x4' square for a 1/8 car. If you can't make a sharp turn in this box then chances are you haven't set your end points or don't have enough toe out.

1/10 cars tend to lose ability to track straight after wall taps and wrecks, I have learned to use my thumb to adjust sub trim during a race as the car is going down the straight with the trim buttons on the grip without having to look at the controls.

Check the exposed lengths of turnbuckles with a caliper between races, what tends to happen is the ball end threads start to strip causing the threads to shove deeper into the ball end, it's best to replace the ball ends and learn to drive cleaner.

 

[tntpoof]

any toe or camber you have . when you hit a bump a object no matter how small it is the car ill dart off ...so its going to take some steering on drivers part

 

[Mrgoodwrench35]

From your description, as long as your camber isn't crazy negative, then you need less toe.