evader drive shaft help....

[pugs2300]

so my buddy has an evader ext2 and he is haveing problems breaking the drive shafts goin to the wheel...he has the duratrax cvd's (i think they're called) in it as apposed to the dogbone set up it came with but they just won't last...they always break right where the shaft meets the ball parts of the end...there is a thin point there....we looked for some MIP's but we quickly found they didn't offer any for the evader....question is, is there any other shafts we can get that are stronger...help us out guys...thanks..

 

[Hopsingh]

umm, thanks buddy, but i already tried here.

 

[pugs2300]

10-4....I'm just asking around and this was part of around...still lookin though...seems the end of the shaft may be hitting the axle carrier if the suspension travels to far....we'll have to check that to...everyone seems surprised you've broke so many of them...lol...par for the course i suppose...

here was one reply i got on another (URC) forum

Has he done anything different with his suspension setup?
He may be over-compressing the suspension arm past where it is supposed to go, and that would jam the end of the shaft against the side of the drive cup, and cause cracks to form over time.
It would do that with any shaft if that's the case.

I'm guessing that's what his problem is, I don't see any other reason for that part of the drivetrain to fail.

Have him hold the truck, and compress the suspension with his hand, and see if the shaft gets bound up in the cup.

 

[Metalhead Matt]

That makes sense. There isn't a locker in the eqaution by chance?

 

[pugs2300]

ok well here is the deal with that...first off he broke 1 or 2 before we did this....
he started with the brushed version that comes with plastic gears and when he upgraded to brushless he ordered the metal gear...but the planetary gears kept slipping....after some research i found that the gear kit often didn't come with the correct shims and things to make them fit together right...and this was the case with his...so after a lot of trying to make it work right (making shims over and over trying to get it right) we just locked it...since i did this on my rustler with no adverse effects we thought it would be ok...and it was...now i under stand this would add a little stress to the drive train but my rustler diff has been locked for probably close to a year and i havent had a problem yet...also like i said he broke them before we did the lock aswell...

 

[Hopsingh]

suspension is all stock, except for the toe links i had to fabricate out of some all thread and brake line because the stock ones kept breaking. but the stance and suspension travel and all that is the same as it was stock.

last time we got the evader out, i broke two of the cv drive shafts with just one battery pack of runtime. i can't figure out why they are breaking, everything turns smooth. thats why i assumed it was just cheap drive lines.

 

[Metalhead Matt]

The plastic shafts on the rusty are more forgiving. I'd go to an open diff and limit the shock travel by a couple cm. Or find a rusty roller and throw your electronics in it. I've heard of many quirky problems with Duratrax vehicles over the years.

 

[pugs2300]

well i guess we'll have to try it...the rig runs and drives great....untill it breaks....be a shame to scrap it and do the rusty roller...

 

[Hopsingh]

i have put a lot of work in to making the evader a decent rig. i will be the first to admit, it wasn't the best of vehicles to begin with. But ya know, i only gave 100 bucks for the evader rtr. the way it sits now though, i really like the way it handles, maybe even better than my rusty's. like you said, it does have a lot of quirks, but i have, best i can tell, gotten them all worked out, except for the drive shafts. id really like to figure out a way to get some durable shafts in this thing.

 

[Metalhead Matt]

I hear ya. There's always the option of modding some shafts and carriers from a different brand rig. Find shafts that fit the outdrives, then do what ya gotta do to make it work.

 

[alien13]

Bad steel maybe? I know a guy that I race with (he's one of the best at the club) who hardens his steel parts. Mainly drive cups and dogbones/CVDs. Heat till it's glowing, and drop in in a bucket of cool water. It'll harden the steel to make is less likely to bend and break.

If you're going through that many shafts, it can't really hurt to try.

 

[pugs2300]

hmmm....well i know you can do that but use oil to cool it instead of water...i think it just hardens the outside layers of the metal though...and i think it would actually make it more brittle...IDK...

---------- Post added at 9:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 9:05 AM ----------

i wonder if we could make some half shafts from a rusty work....we'll have to check that out...i hardly ever break them on my rusty but the pin holse do tend to oval out...