Camber & Toe-In(on Rpm A-arms on LST2)

[taz1175]

I just ordered a set of Blue Rpm A-arms for my LST2 and was wondering what everbody's thoughts were on what camber, - or +, and how much to run ?
I came across this video, 'setting camber', on Rc Car Action and he says that 1 1/2 to 2 degrees of negative camber is best for off-road.?
http://www.rccaraction.com/ME2/dirm...re+Pages&gid=3AA879185FAE4EF2B00E237F136E1D65

I was also wondering what everybody's thoughts were on how much toe-in to run ? How do you adjust toe-in ? I know it goes left and right, but that's it. I will be getting an RPM Monster camber gauge(RPM70950).
Please help, Thanks.......I really appreciate it !

 

[tominator06]

lst2 rpm

I would definatly get lunsford titanium camber rods. The rpm rods are very weak and like to snap off flush which makes them tough to get out. I snapped two in a week and that was enough for me. That part is not covered in the warranty. I run about 2 degrees of camber but I'm just a basher.

 

[taz1175]

Well right on, thanks, every litle bit helps......I'm just a Basher too.
I appreciate the comment !:goodpost:

 

[taz1175]

I would definatly get lunsford titanium camber rods. The rpm rods are very weak and like to snap off flush which makes them tough to get out. I snapped two in a week and that was enough for me. That part is not covered in the warranty. I run about 2 degrees of camber but I'm just a basher.

You mean these ?:shrug:
http://www.rcslot.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=LNS2824

 

[tominator06]

rpm

No, but that is another weak point. I forget which ones I bought. I had to figure out the diameter and length and get them from lunsford. They don't make a kit for the rpm camber rod replacement. You just need the right size to match what comes in the rpm arms. The camber rods are only like 1-1/2 " long. If you are having trouble I can try and look up what size they are and exactly where i got them.

 

[taz1175]

No, but that is another weak point. I forget which ones I bought. I had to figure out the diameter and length and get them from lunsford. They don't make a kit for the rpm camber rod replacement. You just need the right size to match what comes in the rpm arms. The camber rods are only like 1-1/2 " long. If you are having trouble I can try and look up what size they are and exactly where i got them.

Yes, most definately if you could/would please.....I would greatly appreciate it, Thanks !......another:goodpost: !

 

[taz1175]

Project LST2 RPM A-arms(blue) Complete

BTW, I finally got my project of putting the RPM A-arms(blue) and making the shocks all aluminum on my LST2 done as of yesterday.....but I have yet to take it out and run it to see how it is. I also put the stock body & stock dish 20mm wheels/atx tires back on it, instead of running the old used and abused Aftershock body and Cen 23mm wheels/tires......now it actually looks like an LST2. All-in-all it really wasn't that bad, it was just pretty much time consuming at that......it really turned out nice and looks pretty good. I just hope I made the right choice by doing it, although I have yet to install anything 'Lunford' so I hope it will hold up in the mean time. I've been told by many(durwank,tominator06) that the RPM A-arms are very durable, but the turnbuckles and camber links are weak points.:shrug:

 

[olds97_lss]

I run 0 camber on all 4 and very little (if any) toe in on the fronts and no toe on the rear. It's a MT that spends most of it's time bashing. If your racing on a track, then probably a bit of toe and a bit of camber would help, but toe does cause a bit of rolling resistance. It just lets you be more aggressive in the corners and helps it track straight better.

I've heard these upper links work well:
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1164

The lunsfords are hard to find these days, I bought mine at Killer, but they are out of business. Stormer usually has them, but a minimum of $6 on shipping.

LNS1540 is the part number I believe I bought (5mm x 40mm).

Actually, that site you linked too does have them as an item, but they are out of stock:
http://www.rcslot.com/pc-radio-control-slot-cars/LNS1540.html

The 38mm ones work too (LNS1538), you just don't get about 1 extra thread on each side compared to 40mm ones:
http://www.rcslot.com/pc-radio-control-slot-cars/LNS1538.html

Found them at horizon ($9 a piece!):
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LNS1540

Don't cringe too much at the price. I have yet to break my RPM arms or my lunsfords in 2 years of serious bashing on my aftershock. They were worth the money. I broke 2 of the RPM turnbuckles before I got through my first tank of installation. Had to make little cut marks in my brand new arms to get the stupid stud out.

 

[taz1175]

:goodpost:Right on, Thanks ols97_lss......you the man !:thumbup: I appreciate all the info, not to mention the links !!!! So what your saying is that I should probably change them out before I run it or do any serious bashing ?:shrug:

 

[olds97_lss]

So what your saying is that I should probably change them out before I run it or do any serious bashing ?:shrug:

Unless you plan on driving it and not getting ANY air under it or doing ANY accidental cartwheels.

One of mine broke from no more than 3 feet of air under the truck and landing on all 4 wheels. Just snapped when it landed.

 

[taz1175]

Unless you plan on driving it and not getting ANY air under it or doing ANY accidental cartwheels.

One of mine broke from no more than 3 feet of air under the truck and landing on all 4 wheels. Just snapped when it landed.

Oh Damn, that sucks......sorry to hear that !:whhooo: I guess I'm gonna have to be really careful then because I'm dying to run it, I haven't run it since I put the Rpm A-arms and everything else on. Not to mention that I put the turnbuckles in backwards with the elbows facing in instead of facing out. Does it really matter anyway at this point, I'm just better off making it a 'shelf queen' until I get those new turnbuckles. or Not, I'm just gonna have to be really careful, like I said ! I just got the camber set on all 4 wheels at -2 degrees. There is supposed to be a 1/2 degree of toe-in per side for both front & rear wheels.
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/faq/LSTCambr.htm
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/faq/camber.htm

 

[farmermw]

I should have listened to you guys. I just put the rpm arms and sure enough, I hit a small lip where my driveway meets the yard and I snapped my camber rod! DOH!

 

[taz1175]

I should have listened to you guys. I just put the rpm arms and sure enough, I hit a small lip where my driveway meets the yard and I snapped my camber rod! DOH!

WOW:whhooo:....That's weird because I have been bashing mine in the backyard jumping it of my ramp like crazy and I haven't broken one yet ! In fact it seems like the RPM arms are lighter than the stock ones because my truck handles better now off the jump than it did before ! It especially handles better since I adjusted the camber to -2 degrees w/the RPM Monster camber gauge on all 4 wheels. I've even run it up the curb out front and still haven't had any problems.:shrug:
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/tools/hires/70950.htm