Bulletproof Gears/Tranny/Spur/Clutchbell/ETC

[Doberman]

Hey All, I am new here and to Nitro. I am trying to put together a pretty bulletproof (figure of speach) gear package from Robinson Racing and need your assistance. I am running a 2.5 Maxx with a 2.5R motor from a Jato. You can click the link (or copy paste) to go directly to the RR page. I apologize in advance for my lack of knowledge, but it isn’t due to not using the search. I have been searching here and the ENTIRE (LOL) internet for days now.

www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/tmaxx25.html
I have decided to get the following, and would like to hear your input:
8472 Double-Disc Slipper Kit: (72T steel spur), pads, plates, bearing. $43.75
8552 Vented Aluminum Flywheel, Blue (fits 1.5 and 2.5 T-Maxx) $24.50
8690 High Performance Steel Diff Gear Set: 1 beveled pinion, 1 beveled spur, 10 washers, 1 tube black grease, 4 stainless steel screws. $49.50
8562 High performance Brake Kit, with brake pads and backing plates. $36.00

I need help deciding on the following:
Tranny Gears
8525 T-Maxx / 2.5 Maxx Hardened Steel Topshaft 17/22t $41.50
8526 T-Maxx / 2.5 replacement bearing (1) for the RRP 8525 Topshaft $2.00
8529 T-Maxx / 2.5 Maxx Hardened (Steel) Forward Primary Gear $21.50
8586 T-Maxx / 2.5 Maxx Forward Only Hardened (Steel) gear kit $28.50

Which one would match well with the 72T/32P Spur Gear?
Clutchbells
8119 T-Maxx 2.5 Hardened Steel Clutchbell 19T $10.95
8120 T-Maxx 2.5 Hardened Steel Clutchbell 20T $10.95
8121 T-Maxx 2.5 Hardened Steel Clutchbell 21T $10.95
8123 T-Maxx 2.5 Hardened Steel Clutchbell 23T $10.95

 

[Doberman]

Damn! 15 views and no-one can provide any input?

 

[SkyMaxx]

The tranny gears are your choice. Dollar amount is usually the limiting factor. The clutchbells are also your choice...depends on what you hope to gain. The 72T spur matched with each one gives a different gearing and thus a different end result. One more torquey the other more speed...you need to decide what your desired endstate is...and from there, we can tell you which clutchbell to get.

My first question for you considering the engine you are running, is why do you want to spend so much money on the drive train to run a stock engine in? Are you planning on upgrading to a more powerful engine sometime soon?

 

[Doberman]

The tranny gears are your choice. Dollar amount is usually the limiting factor. The clutchbells are also your choice...depends on what you hope to gain. The 72T spur matched with each one gives a different gearing and thus a different end result. One more torquey the other more speed...you need to decide what your desired endstate is...and from there, we can tell you which clutchbell to get.

My first question for you considering the engine you are running, is why do you want to spend so much money on the drive train to run a stock engine in? Are you planning on upgrading to a more powerful engine sometime soon?

SkyMaxx, Thanks for your reply! Eventually yes, I will upgrade to a more powerful engine. In the mean time I want to replace the most common parts that break and etc.

As far as end state with regard to the spur and clutchbell, I will be running the truck off road against my buddies Jato 2.5, and will go to my local track from time to time just to have fun. I will also be adding weight with alluminum parts.

Thanks again for your reply!
-D

 

[SkyMaxx]

On the T-Maxx, replacing common parts that break could easily empty your wallet. Upgrading the spur gear to the ring steel set up from Robinson Racing is a good upgrade. A hardened steel clutch bell is also a worthwhile upgrade.

Just realize that when you remove the sacrificial pieces (the plastic spur gear is a good example) a poorly meshed drivetrain is asking for serious damage (no matter what you have in the transmission casing or in your diffs). Make certain you square up the engine mount so that the gears mesh true. Also make certain you set your slipper so that you get the right amount of slippage for whatever your driving conditions will be.

As for spur/clutchbell combos...telling me you are driving offroad does little to answer that question. Again, think torque versus speed. Are you going to be doing alot of hill climb type stuff where torque is a need. Are you going to be doing alot of sprints or things where you need to get off the line and to the topspeed quickly...then torque will be a need. Are you running in wide open areas where you have room to get up to speed and want a really high top speed...then torque is not something you need.

There are tons of weak areas on the T-Maxx old and new. So make certain to ask about them before spending a lot of money upgrading the transmission...not saying it is a bad idea...just thinking that the money could go into something more useful in the way of upgrades...

 

[olds97_lss]

If your going to spend that kind of dough, get good trans bearings from boca (or something similar) to keep all those nice expensive gears meshed well. Do the same for the diffs. Stock bearings are ok, but considering the $ your investing into a maxx, better bearings are smarter way to go.

Spend the extra dough now and get maximizer 7075 diff cups (stock modified ring/pinion/3mm screws/3mm cup or RRP modified ring/pinion/3mm screws/3mm cup) to help prolong the life of your spiders/ring/pinion. Aluminum diff cases as well to help keep the ring/pinion alignment. Something integy is actually not bad for. Make sure to get the diff support collars as well. The cups and cases will get you much more mileage out of your nice new gears.

Also, get steel shims and shim the diffs right. Once you replace everything with aluminum, the shims will help you get the best mesh possible and the cases being aluminum will keep the mesh solid.

Bad horsie sells some sticky diff grease for inside the diff cup. This helps give you posi-traction that the maxx so desperately needs. It will also have a better tendency to stay inside the diff.

When I had mine, I went so far as to get an aluminum trans case. After many many gallons of hard running in a 21 chassis maxx, the RRP steel gears looked as new as they did the day I installed them. I probably ran a good 8-10 gallons through them before I gave up on the maxx genre.

Also, keep in mind that by the time you spend that kind of dough on the diffs, you could have replaced them with UE for another $100 or so. UE has/had a kit that basically installed 1/8 scale diffs in your maxx. A much better and cost effective option.

 

[Doberman]

As for spur/clutchbell combos...telling me you are driving offroad does little to answer that question. Again, think torque versus speed. Are you going to be doing alot of hill climb type stuff where torque is a need. Are you going to be doing alot of sprints or things where you need to get off the line and to the topspeed quickly...then torque will be a need. Are you running in wide open areas where you have room to get up to speed and want a really high top speed...then torque is not something you need.

SkyMaxx, I will primariliy be running on flat surfaces and be doing sprints and need to get off the line quick and up to top speed quickly.

With that said, can you recommend a spur/clutchbell combo that would suffice?

Thanks again for your assistance! it is much appreciated!

 

[SkyMaxx]

Fair enough...will see what I can dig up...my memory on gear ratios is not what it used to be. While I dig around for that info...realize, you sacrifice some of your top speed when you go for maximum acceleration...nature of the beast...you can't have your cake and eat it too...at least not in this particular case.

 

[Doberman]

Also, keep in mind that by the time you spend that kind of dough on the diffs, you could have replaced them with UE for another $100 or so. UE has/had a kit that basically installed 1/8 scale diffs in your maxx. A much better and cost effective option.

Do you have a link to the above?

Thanks for all of the advice! You and SkyMaxx are making me second guess upgrading anything at this time except for the spur and clutchbell. I will buy them now for "when" not if I shear the stock ones.
-D

 

[olds97_lss]

I don't know if they are available anymore:
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/13540.html

I think fastlanemachine makes some diff cases for the maxx that can house 1/8 scale diffs though.

http://www.rcbros.com/cart/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=55

 

[SkyMaxx]

I think this link should answer your question regarding gearing and combos of spurs to clutchbells. Give it a read.

CLICK HERE

 

[Doberman]

I think this link should answer your question regarding gearing and combos of spurs to clutchbells. Give it a read.

CLICK HERE

Very NICE! It does answer my questions, and makes things much more clear. I picked up the most recent copy or RC Driver (I think that is what it is) magazine and there is a 3 - 4 page article about gears and I just did not get it. I could not figure out what the end result would be (performance wise) after making a change.
Thanks again!
-D

 

[.21Rc10GT]

I used the Fastlane machine 1/8th bulkless on my Cybermaxx. They are great, but the only downside is the diffs need to have drive cups that will either fit through the bearing holes in the cases, or be able to come off of the shaft and put them on the outside of the case.

 

[SkyMaxx]

Happy to help. Good luck with the T-Maxx and have fun.