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Plaidfish

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this was going to be a PM to SweetD (the god of all things brushless and faster than lightning speed itself) but I think this might be good info for all...

I have an E-maxx (gorillamaxx) with the original Novak HV-maxx esc and a HV 4.5 motor. I'm running a bit high on the ESC temps and just want to know how to trouble shoot the temp issues.... I remember there was a thread years ago about the high temps on the motor would be caused from over or under gearing and the ESC high temps would be caused by the opposite.....am I way off in this memory? (my special "flower vase" may be a problem there. hehe)....I'm running an 18t pinion and a 66t spur.....

also I'm using the robinsons racing slipper but I seem to need to crank it down way more than I thought I should to keep it from just spinning the slipper....is there another recommended slipper for the BL setups now?

I am going to change this setup (eventually) to a mamba monster setup just for ease of the programming software where I can setup all the specific parameters I want to use...I'm not sure if that will drop the performance but I can let some of that go to make this a more reliable rig....
 
Gearing could cause your esc to get warm, too. Dropping a tooth on the pinion would probably make a noticeable difference. Your slipper may just need a quick scuffing with some light sand paper to bring 'er back to life.
 
Gearing could cause your esc to get warm, too. Dropping a tooth on the pinion would probably make a noticeable difference. .
Yes gearing will make a difference in temp...Unfortunately I need to ordert he new pinions since the only decent Shop near me closed, I tried a 24t and it thermaled almost 2 mins into a pack..
I tried 17 and it's just got so much torque it's just stupid AND I set my throttle curve as slow as I could. 18t still thermals if I romp it for a few mins (maybe I just need to drive it a lil softer :shrug: )....I'm really looking for the key as to which way to go on my gearing now...ie does hot ESC mean gear too high? or too low?
I'd really rather not keep trying different pinons as I'd have even more useless RC crap...Should I just accept I can't hammer on this thing with this motor ESC??? it is the original HV maxx ESC...the motor doesn't even have a 5mm shaft it was offered as an upgrade...

Your slipper may just need a quick scuffing with some light sand paper to bring 'er back to life.

tried that...no good the discs get glazed in less than 2 packs....I tried scufing them with fine and rough...the fine just seemed to make it glaze almost instantly and slip...the rougher stuff made them too rough and they sort of crumble.... just replaced the spring on the slipper and stacked a few washers under the nut to keep the spring pressure more even.....the old one was so tight it was starting to unwind.....I was told I put too much power to the original E-maxx transmission (whatever)....I dropped it to a single speed and have the aluminum end plate already to stiffen the tranny up but I was thinking I may to go all alumiunm on the case....I've heard the motor sound like it was unloading off the spur in hard corners but I really can't believe the chassis is flexing that much....look it's all aluminum and CF
 

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Sorry to say that I had the very same setup in my GMaxx and was never able to get it to stop going into thermal shutdown without babying the throttle. I even had 2 fans on the esc. Tough to baby the throttle during a race.

I ended up selling the entire rig when the ERevo was released.

Dropped the Mamba Monster in the ERevo and could not be happier.

Piss on Novak. The experience has soured me on their products.
 
that motor may be a little hot for that type of rig. You would be better off IMO with the 6.5 (if you want to stick with novak) Its like putting a super low turn motor in a heavy rig and then trying to gear it to compensate.
 
The setup I had (HV4400) was specifically marketed for single motor brushless conversions of the EMaxx. There was no other option at the time.

They even had an online warning not to use stock gearing. You had to use their gearing chart which I did to no avail.
 
crazy, i ran a 3.5/GTB setup on a TC5 and even with that lightweight car i could get it warmed up.

Maybe they marketed it because its all they had???

Does the truck roll freely? No binding anywhere?


Whats your battery setup? Is your limit 4S like the HV-Maxx available today?

as far as the slipper goes, the RRDD was the shizzle in its prime but it was an upgrade to those dinky little pegs that traxxas was using. Its funny how its designed to slip but after on a couple slips, the pads are shot. I would look into converting over to the new style revo slipper. When these slip, you are just spinning a pad on a metal surface and there is no real damage taking place. You wear down the pads but they are easy to replace and have quite a bit more holding power when compared to the standard slipper design. You should be able to install it on any transmission with the same size cross pin on the input shaft.
 
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I was using the RRP dual disc slipper. It worked really well.
 
better than the revo spec one?

I liked my robinson racing one but not nearly as much as the new style
 
I'm reliving Rob's pain.....i think I'm also going to follow in his footsteps and sell the gorillamaxx....F'ing custom stuff is a PITA...

I'm thinking RC8Te for the next rig....
 
sc8e. do it Chips was SICK.
 
Novak is the only brushless motors I've ever seen that go SLOWER if they're overgeared. They even say in their instructions that if the car isnt going as fast as it should, and speedie temps are up, then gear it down....
My Castle and Hobbywing systems will overheat if overgeared of course, but the speed tells you where your gearings at.
I dont have the Gorillamax kit, but it looks heavy, so yeah maybe they dropped the ball and should have put the 6.5 in it, (although that HV 6.5 is the one that was thermalling in my truggy).
The RC8Te is no where near as good as a nitro converted, (AE conversion is good, RC Monster conversion is awesome) but the SC8e I believe is the same kit right across the board.
 
The Gorilla maxx didn't come with any electronics it'sjust the chassis with lower CG...it's actually NOT heavy....just a skeleton of aluminum and CF battery trays....

I got the 4.5 setup from another member here over a year ago and have been tinkering with it in spare time for a few months now

I'll try to find a 15 & 16t to see if that helps....I changed the diffs to 1/8 scale so I know the whole ratio is screwed up...I guess I should just break down and count teeth all around and then do a final gear ratio and then try to adjust my spur and pinion ratio to get MY actual gear ratio closer to what a BL E-maxx's final gear Ratio is at.....



I just wanted to type the word ratio alot......


I'm not really impressed with the whole SC8 or any of those baja looking rigs....I like the unreal handling of the truggy setup.....
 
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