BL / ESC overheating

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Plaidfish

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OK I think I'm down to gearing issues and doing a double check with the grand wizards here. I dropped my brake curve and EPA down to almost nothing 15% and that helped stop overheating a little. I have a hobbywing ESC (forget model I'm at work..SHHHH) and an older novak 4.5 motor with 4s Lipo (2 packs in series). I can drive for about a 1/4 battery life before it starts going into thermal protection mode. the motor feels hotter than the ESC by far. I have power enough to flip my truck on its lid from start even with the throttle curve set about 50% at my Tx. it really thermals when I do long high speed runs so I'm thinking gear for higher speeds. is there any gearing guides for E-maxx / Gorillamaxx setups anyone knows of? I'm not having good search results on this topic or maybe I'm too lazy to keep digging. You decide
 
Are your leads longer than they need to be?
 
didn't know there was too long of a lead it's 12g wire and I'm running lipo packs they can dump a lot of current.

but the motor wires are less than 6" and the battery lead is about 8"
 
actually I tried canning my farts and letting the heat open a thermally controlled valve that releases the fart onto the motor. I was hoping it would act more like a nitrous gas but I got pure methane and it blew up in my face destroying my ability to avoid that noxious stench burned into my nasal passage now.
And all I was thinking after reading this was, F'ing Rolex couldn't have chimed in earlier with some advice before this egregious accident befell me.

Thanks man I thought you had my back

you know me and my Frankenstein customs. Oh no I can't just leave it alone. I gotta go the most retarded route possible using the most PITA platform available to work on.
 
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Make your leads as short as possible
 
doin that now..I can take almost 2 inches off the motor leads. are the battery leads necessary too? I can cut them shorter but it gets a little hectic with connecting them. I have banana plugs going directly into the packs so after you get one side plugged its a little dangerous and I've already killed my Novak ESC by dropping the plug and shorting it out.
Any tips like that would be appreciated.
 
To the best of my knowledge fish don't have hairs in their nostrils, so the stench will eventually go away as you heal.
If you are a captive in an aquarium, try to stay in the corner opposite the heater. If you are lucky enough to be in the open ocean, stay in deeper water away from the warmer water near shore.
 
C'Mon Man didnt you see the whole movie of my Biography? I'm trying to make it to the toilet bowl.
it was sort of like "Shermanshank Redemption". I swam through the poo and got dumped into the harbor.
But still you didnt have my back buddy....you let me down Rolex.


I did shorten the leads to the motor last night. S Florida weather sucks been raining too much to go play with my toys. I'll see how much that helps when its dry.
 
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didn't help...I asked the hobby shop and they were a bit clueless..seems the hobby has gone so RTR and prepacked vehicles that no one wants to deal with custom projects anymore.
 
I would say to go up a couple of teeth on the pinion and see if that helps it. I had thermal issues on the VXL set up on my mERV. Going up a couple of teeth fixed my problem.
 
ok. Update. found crossover wire between battery packs was 14g not 12. had a thicker jacket so I assumed. have tried pinions from 16t and it tops out speedwise in 10 ft and thermals in about 4 or 5 high speed runs. I tried 18t and the time before the thermal protection kicks in is a little longer, so I'm going in the right direction. I'm at 22t and its better but I still only get a good 2 - 3 mins of running it on the street mostly and cruising across yards. nothing stressful. Am I just expecting too much from Electric? I did get the Hobbywing ESC but I see a lot of the kids at the track had them. So now I'm back to the Gurus for help again...

Bueller




Bueller
 
I would drop down to 3s, I ran that motor in a Slash 4x4 years ago and had problems with heat on 4s. My next advise would be ditch that system as soon as your funds will allow for something that can actually handle some power.
 
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how is the castle stuff? always liked the 1/18th scale stuff and my TC4 has a castle setup but whats the good stuff for 1/8 scale stuff now?
 
Mamba Monster will easily run the 4s power and it's now officially water resistant. I'm running a Mamba Max Pro4600kV 4-pole on 3s in my SCX-10. Insane in high gear on the 2-speed.
 
I think this ESC isn't meant for an Emaxx. I got 1/8 scale diffs when this thing was a Mutant maxx and had to make a custom spur gear to get the final gear ratio right. I'm using those diffs in it now and I'm having similar problems, need to find the gear calculator and finger it all out.
the truck weighs about 9 lbs.. ESC I think is rated to 15lbs. and 4s
there was one hobbywing ESC bigger than this one but the guys at the hobby shop were sure this would handle my truck so I got it instead of waiting for the bigger one. live and learn..gonna have to wait for this one to do it right. just bought new brakes for bike.
 
how is the castle stuff? always liked the 1/18th scale stuff and my TC4 has a castle setup but whats the good stuff for 1/8 scale stuff now?

Expensive but oh so nice. the MM gets crazy power on 4s and ludicrous speed on 6s. 6s is IMHO almost too much, unless you have a thing for standing still backflips. Or pretty much easy backflips at most any speed.

Should you go with a Castle system, make sure to the Castle link to tune the esc. Fine tuning those makes all that lipo power usable. Where out of the box with default settings makes it almost undrivable. But you will go fast, shred tires and break stuff :D
 
already got the castle link for my RC18 and TC4. and I'm really looking to stay around 4s. I dont want unusable power..









or DO I????
 
The Mamba Monster is a great idea then. It's what Traxxas puts in their Brushless Edition Revos and E-Maxxes. You should have absolutely no problems on 4s with it either.
 
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