ausher
RCTalk Addict
Supporter
well crap... read so much good stuff about buku..........
who makes a splined center shafts?
who makes a splined center shafts?
Welcome to RCTalk
Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
pitluver52
RCTalk Member
If it burns a buku, then what's left?! Lol o thought it didn't get any better.
hotrodrob
not hotdogbob
Ya,wtf! Something must have gone wrong,either in assembly or ......
transmited from a mobile communications device
dh3.3
RCTalk Member
Nice. Those rims are great. Might have to get a set.
Zdragon71
Hardcore RCTalk User
I love my buku aluminum shoe set up on my big block.
Punisher
RCTalk Qualifier
Might have had something to do with the gearing - was the smaller TRX size Buku on a .26 with composite shoes 34/20 gearing on a high traction surface.
Burnt through the composite in a half dozen 100ft runs . . .
Now use an Losi 8ight 4 shoe clutch with ACE hard alloy shoes - 38/17 gearing, .28 LRP - not a problem . . .
hotrodrob
not hotdogbob
That's not right man those composite shoes should take a beating and ask for more,were they the brass or aluminum ones
transmited from a mobile communications device
Punisher
RCTalk Qualifier
Alloy shoe with the composite material.
Certainly did not take a beating - must have worn through the composite material almost immediately - the alloy shoes were melted around the bell and disintegrated.
The clutch slipped immediately – did two or three 100ft runs in a car park with clutch slip, tried to make adjustments, but the damage had already been done.
I was amazed that it was even possible to ruin a clutch in such spectacular fashion in such a short period of time.
I contacted the manufacturer who agreed something was wrong, the clutch should not have burned out. He did not offer any suggestions as to what went wrong. He commited to send me some replacement shoes, but they were never received – clutch has since gone in the bin.
I bought the Buku clutch because of the great reviews I had read - my experience however was not the same . . . .
I use a Losi 4 shoe now as I mentioned - changing springs is not that difficult - have had zero probs . . .
TK5310
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Messages
- 255
- Reaction score
- 5
- RC Driving Style
- Thread starter
- #29
Well, this got a birthday, it was getting pretty flogged out after much abuse - around 8 gallons on the picco now & she's finally fully broken in, still needs to be warmed up to start tho!
A week or so ago I sheared the steel rear drive shaft, which was preceeded by a busted rear diff & some dramas with wheel bearings, the chassis was cracked & overall it was just beat up & starting to come up with lotsa niggling issues.
So I pulled it down to a bare chassis again, bead blasted the chassis back to bare alloy, TIG welded up the crack & added some reinforcement then painted it satin black with epoxy roll cage paint (tough stuff).
Threw everything except trans, motor & electronics through my rotary spray wash at work & got it all real clean, then went through everything as I put it back together - regreased wheel bearings, replaced any other bearings that were feeling a little sad, replaced a bunch of rod ends, re-oiled the shocks, straightened a bent pushrod, sleeved & welded up the sheared driveshaft & patched up the beat to sh|thouse cheap CV axles.
I've got some proper TRX CV axles coming so I can get spares in the future & rebuild them when I've trashed them.
The front & rear drive shafts are also due for replacement, so I'll have to make up a set soonish, the ones in it are on borrowed time.
Also needs a new RR slipper gear, may have to order a couple of them, they seem to be a consumable, I get maybe 1-2 gallons out of a slipper.
Not sure why it chews up the slippers, I thought it must be rocks & stuff going through the gears, but I always run a body on it now & it still kills the gears.
Starting to think it may be the Qconcepts mount is not rigid enough & the engine is moving around under power.
May have to get one of those new era style mounts a forum member is making now instead & see how that goes.
Got a bargain the other day - all my off road tyres are dead & I'm still waiting on tyres from the US to arrive, so I had nothing useable for now.
Dropped past my LHS not expecting him to have anything in stock anyway - walked out with 4x 40 series bow ties, 4x 40 series wheels & 4x 40 series hard foams for $100, he was clearing out old stock & I showed up at exactly the right time LOL.
That's cheaper than I could get that lot off ebay!
I'll have to snap some pics of it before I go get it all dirty & beat up again, looks trick now!
A week or so ago I sheared the steel rear drive shaft, which was preceeded by a busted rear diff & some dramas with wheel bearings, the chassis was cracked & overall it was just beat up & starting to come up with lotsa niggling issues.
So I pulled it down to a bare chassis again, bead blasted the chassis back to bare alloy, TIG welded up the crack & added some reinforcement then painted it satin black with epoxy roll cage paint (tough stuff).
Threw everything except trans, motor & electronics through my rotary spray wash at work & got it all real clean, then went through everything as I put it back together - regreased wheel bearings, replaced any other bearings that were feeling a little sad, replaced a bunch of rod ends, re-oiled the shocks, straightened a bent pushrod, sleeved & welded up the sheared driveshaft & patched up the beat to sh|thouse cheap CV axles.
I've got some proper TRX CV axles coming so I can get spares in the future & rebuild them when I've trashed them.
The front & rear drive shafts are also due for replacement, so I'll have to make up a set soonish, the ones in it are on borrowed time.
Also needs a new RR slipper gear, may have to order a couple of them, they seem to be a consumable, I get maybe 1-2 gallons out of a slipper.
Not sure why it chews up the slippers, I thought it must be rocks & stuff going through the gears, but I always run a body on it now & it still kills the gears.
Starting to think it may be the Qconcepts mount is not rigid enough & the engine is moving around under power.
May have to get one of those new era style mounts a forum member is making now instead & see how that goes.
Got a bargain the other day - all my off road tyres are dead & I'm still waiting on tyres from the US to arrive, so I had nothing useable for now.
Dropped past my LHS not expecting him to have anything in stock anyway - walked out with 4x 40 series bow ties, 4x 40 series wheels & 4x 40 series hard foams for $100, he was clearing out old stock & I showed up at exactly the right time LOL.
That's cheaper than I could get that lot off ebay!
I'll have to snap some pics of it before I go get it all dirty & beat up again, looks trick now!
TK5310
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Messages
- 255
- Reaction score
- 5
- RC Driving Style
- Thread starter
- #30
First time out since the rebuild & I landed it on it's roof from about 6 feet up at a skate park - cracked the chassis near the roll bar mount again & bent it down, didn't notice & stripped another RRP spur gear and a HPI 17t bell.
Cracked the shits with it, stripped it down again, welded up the crack & welded bracing into the whole engine bay area. I'll mount the roll bar on rubber blocks to reduce the shock loading to the chassis.
Cracked the shits with it, stripped it down again, welded up the crack & welded bracing into the whole engine bay area. I'll mount the roll bar on rubber blocks to reduce the shock loading to the chassis.
chickenman242
Hardcore RCTalk User
Have you tried the m2c engine brace its plenty thick and looks like it can take a beating
brandon13
RCTalk Basher
Firefighter
did you powder coat your chassis?
TK5310
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Messages
- 255
- Reaction score
- 5
- RC Driving Style
- Thread starter
- #34
Out flogging the crap out of this with a mate & his Losi 8t - results over 2x bash sessions:
Fubar'd pipe & bent throttle linkage from a collision, broken bumper mount from another collision, broken rpm front arm as well. Broke the last of the cheap ass metal driveshafts, was running 3x stockers & 1 metal, both of the rear stock driveshafts are almost torn through the plastic joints.
Had a destroyed rear diff side bearing.
Chassis has held up well to several spectacular carwheels on a rough bitumen carpark.
The RR slipper is fine now, looks like the chassis was the culprit to chewing them out.
I tried an 086 pipe on the Picco to replace the busted GO pipe - Picco hated it, would not rev out, no top end at all, stuck a GO 2072 on it & it came alive again.
Since I last updated this it got treated to a big ass spectrum digital steering servo, massively powerfull, the old digital steering servo went into the throttle/brake spot.
Also rubber mounted the roll bar so it doesn't bend the chassis when my driving style results in a high speed cartwheel.
Mate with the Losi (Punisher on here) wanted to quit his Revo, so I grabbed it, it's got some nice bits so mine will score the best stuff from both, the rest will be used to build up a 'spare' Revo with a .21 in it that won't smash stuff all the time, my son can use that & I'll have it for a spare when I break mine.
I've got another Revo 3.3 I built from spares that'll get sold as a runner with a few updates to fund the latest purchase.
Rebuild will start tonight with a can or 2 of JD, should turn out to be pretty much the ultimate revo:
Vantage carbon fibre chassis
Picco .28 team turbo, BB buggy header, GO pipe, running 30%
Motosaver filter
Qconcepts mount
Custom throttle linkage
Losi 8t clutch with aftermarket offset hard alloy shoes & 18t RR bell
RR slipper
Full RR std ratio trans gear set, custom case hardened 8740 steel main shaft
Custom steel centre driveshafts
Brushless ERevo diffs with hot racing billet cups
TRX steel driveshafts
23mm hex conversion
RPM true track rear & front arms & carriers
TRX alloy pushrods & drag links
Alloy single servo steering arm
GTR shocks with TRX tuning kit, blue rear springs & silver front
TRX sway bar kit
TRX P2 rockers
RPM front & rear bumpers & mounts
TRX wing & wheelie bar
Techno battery box, RX box & fuel tank conversion
250cc Hyper 1/7 tank - with modded cap seal so the dang thing seals.
spectum steering servo, powerHD throttle servo
Custom rubber mounted chromoly roll bar
Choice of 40 series road rage tyres or bow ties for bitumen or dirt
Before pics as it sits this morning, I'll give it a clean up along with the donor revo today:
Fubar'd pipe & bent throttle linkage from a collision, broken bumper mount from another collision, broken rpm front arm as well. Broke the last of the cheap ass metal driveshafts, was running 3x stockers & 1 metal, both of the rear stock driveshafts are almost torn through the plastic joints.
Had a destroyed rear diff side bearing.
Chassis has held up well to several spectacular carwheels on a rough bitumen carpark.
The RR slipper is fine now, looks like the chassis was the culprit to chewing them out.
I tried an 086 pipe on the Picco to replace the busted GO pipe - Picco hated it, would not rev out, no top end at all, stuck a GO 2072 on it & it came alive again.
Since I last updated this it got treated to a big ass spectrum digital steering servo, massively powerfull, the old digital steering servo went into the throttle/brake spot.
Also rubber mounted the roll bar so it doesn't bend the chassis when my driving style results in a high speed cartwheel.
Mate with the Losi (Punisher on here) wanted to quit his Revo, so I grabbed it, it's got some nice bits so mine will score the best stuff from both, the rest will be used to build up a 'spare' Revo with a .21 in it that won't smash stuff all the time, my son can use that & I'll have it for a spare when I break mine.
I've got another Revo 3.3 I built from spares that'll get sold as a runner with a few updates to fund the latest purchase.
Rebuild will start tonight with a can or 2 of JD, should turn out to be pretty much the ultimate revo:
Vantage carbon fibre chassis
Picco .28 team turbo, BB buggy header, GO pipe, running 30%
Motosaver filter
Qconcepts mount
Custom throttle linkage
Losi 8t clutch with aftermarket offset hard alloy shoes & 18t RR bell
RR slipper
Full RR std ratio trans gear set, custom case hardened 8740 steel main shaft
Custom steel centre driveshafts
Brushless ERevo diffs with hot racing billet cups
TRX steel driveshafts
23mm hex conversion
RPM true track rear & front arms & carriers
TRX alloy pushrods & drag links
Alloy single servo steering arm
GTR shocks with TRX tuning kit, blue rear springs & silver front
TRX sway bar kit
TRX P2 rockers
RPM front & rear bumpers & mounts
TRX wing & wheelie bar
Techno battery box, RX box & fuel tank conversion
250cc Hyper 1/7 tank - with modded cap seal so the dang thing seals.
spectum steering servo, powerHD throttle servo
Custom rubber mounted chromoly roll bar
Choice of 40 series road rage tyres or bow ties for bitumen or dirt
Before pics as it sits this morning, I'll give it a clean up along with the donor revo today:
dezza
RCTalk Racer
Supporter
I'm having the same gear problems. Chassis looks sweet but maybe not, either that or mount. Can't remember what mount I got I think ofna. Destroyed a set of RRs after maybe ten tanks... put a 36 stocko in and that lasted about three minutes. Just ordered a 38 RR slipper unit but I think I'll be looking st a new chassis as well.
chickenman242
Hardcore RCTalk User
Hey tk how many tanks you got through that picco must be a few by now
Hopefully you bulletproof that thing soon
Hey dezza you get your gear??, I forgot to ask
Hopefully you bulletproof that thing soon
Hey dezza you get your gear??, I forgot to ask
dezza
RCTalk Racer
Supporter
Yeah buddy I got em. I did send a msg I think.....
chickenman242
Hardcore RCTalk User
All good mate
TK5310
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Messages
- 255
- Reaction score
- 5
- RC Driving Style
- Thread starter
- #40
Gotta be getting close on 10 gal through the picco, still real strong, idles pretty much indefinitely now with no issues. I'm gonna play with some different pipes - the 086 costing so much power is intriguing.
Got both trucks pulled down & have started reassembly picking the best of both - should be close on bulletproof now, carbon fibre chassis will not bend & screw up the mesh, so spur & bell should last a lot longer.
Trans has proven dead reliable now, only issues have been pins in the axles & hubs shearing - still not sure on the fix for that.
I'll have to make up a new roll bar, current one won't fit with the vantage chassis - thinking alloy round tube with thick rubber mounts to get the weight down & protect the chassis from sharp impacts (CF doesn't like that - it's real strong, but brittle).
Got both trucks pulled down & have started reassembly picking the best of both - should be close on bulletproof now, carbon fibre chassis will not bend & screw up the mesh, so spur & bell should last a lot longer.
Trans has proven dead reliable now, only issues have been pins in the axles & hubs shearing - still not sure on the fix for that.
I'll have to make up a new roll bar, current one won't fit with the vantage chassis - thinking alloy round tube with thick rubber mounts to get the weight down & protect the chassis from sharp impacts (CF doesn't like that - it's real strong, but brittle).
Last edited:
Similar threads
-
easy rider
- Nitro RC
